🔧 Explorer - Timing Chain Replacement (No Timing Belt)

Your Explorer’s 3.5L V6 uses a timing chain, not a timing belt. If you’re trying to fix chain rattle, cam/crank correlation codes, or high-mileage wear, the repair involves replacing the chains, guides, and tensioners and then re-timing the engine.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-14 hours

Assumption: 3.5L Ti-VCT chain-driven timing (stock setup).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle securely on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; you’ll drain coolant and work near hot components.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental starts.
• ⚠️ This job requires precise cam timing; rotating the engine at the wrong time can cause internal damage.
• ⚠️ Many fasteners are “torque-to-yield” (one-time-use); reusing them can cause failure.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Deep socket set 8mm-21mm
• Wrench set 8mm-21mm
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-100 Nm
• Torque wrench 40-300 Nm
• Torque angle gauge
• Torx bit set T20-T55
• E-Torx socket set E8-E14
• Serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive
• Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
• Ford 3.5L timing tool kit (cam holding/locking and crank pin) (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Plastic razor scraper
• RTV sealant applicator
• Shop rags
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit (primary chain, secondary chains, guides, tensioners) - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Water pump gasket/O-ring set (recommended while open) - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft pulley bolt (one-time-use) - Qty: 1
• Camshaft sprocket bolts (one-time-use if specified in kit/manual) - Qty: 4
• Engine coolant (Motorcraft-spec yellow) - Qty: 2-3 gallons premix
• Engine oil (5W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• RTV silicone gasket maker (Ford-spec) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket on the negative terminal.
• Raise the front and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Remove the lower splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and appropriate 8mm socket.
• Pro tip: Bag and label bolts by component.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Drain fluids

• Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain.
• Open the drain and remove the degas bottle cap to drain coolant.
• Drain engine oil using a socket set 8mm-21mm and move the pan as needed.

Step 2: Remove air intake and upper access components

• Remove the intake tube/airbox as needed using a socket set 8mm-21mm and Torx bit set T20-T55.
• Disconnect electrical connectors carefully; use a flashlight so you don’t break tabs.
• Pro tip: Press tabs, don’t pry them.

Step 3: Support the engine and remove the right-side mount

• Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the fenders and take the engine weight.
• Remove the right engine mount hardware using a socket set 8mm-21mm and torque wrench 40-300 Nm for reassembly.
• Torque to Ford specification on reassembly (varies by fastener).

Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt and front accessories

• Relieve belt tension using a serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive and remove the belt.
• Remove accessory brackets/fasteners blocking the timing cover using socket set 8mm-21mm and E-Torx socket set E8-E14.
• Torque to Ford specification on reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer)

• Remove the crank bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and appropriate deep socket set 8mm-21mm.
• Use a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) to pull the pulley off straight.
• Plan to install a new crankshaft pulley bolt (one-time-use).
• Torque to Ford specification plus required angle using a torque angle gauge (torque-to-yield procedure).

Step 6: Remove valve covers for cam access

• Unplug coils/connectors and remove valve cover bolts using a socket set 8mm-21mm.
• Lift covers off; if stuck, tap gently—do not pry on sealing surfaces.
• Torque to Ford specification on reassembly (small bolts strip easily).

Step 7: Remove the front timing cover

• Remove timing cover bolts using socket set 8mm-21mm and E-Torx socket set E8-E14.
• Break the seal carefully using a plastic razor scraper; avoid gouging aluminum.
• Clean mating surfaces with a plastic razor scraper and shop rags.

Step 8: Set cylinder 1 to TDC and lock the engine timing

• Rotate the crankshaft by hand using a socket set 8mm-21mm on the crank (never use the starter).
• Install the Ford 3.5L timing tool kit (cam holding/locking and crank pin) (specialty).
• A “locking/holding tool” is a bracket/pin set that keeps cams/crank from moving while chains are off.

Step 9: Remove timing chains, guides, and tensioners

• Release/remove tensioners using socket set 8mm-21mm.
• Remove guides and chains using socket set 8mm-21mm and Torx bit set T20-T55 as equipped.
• Keep parts organized left/right and primary/secondary.

Step 10: Install new chains, guides, and tensioners

• Install new guides using a torque wrench 10-100 Nm.
• Install new chains aligning the colored links to the timing marks (per kit/manual) while the timing tool kit is installed.
• Install tensioners last, then pull the retaining pins (if equipped) to apply tension.
• Torque to Ford specification for guide, sprocket, and tensioner fasteners.
• Pro tip: Double-check marks before pulling pins.

Step 11: Verify timing by hand-rotating the engine

• Remove the timing tools, then rotate the crankshaft two full turns by hand using a breaker bar.
• Reinstall the timing tool kit and confirm the engine returns to correct locked position.
• If anything binds, stop and re-check chain routing and marks.

Step 12: Reinstall the timing cover with correct sealant

• Install the new front crank seal as needed using the appropriate driver from the harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) if it includes seal adapters.
• Apply RTV silicone gasket maker (Ford-spec) at the specified joints (typically where castings meet) using an RTV sealant applicator.
• Install the timing cover and tighten bolts evenly using a torque wrench 10-100 Nm.
• Torque to Ford specification in the proper sequence.

Step 13: Reinstall crank pulley, engine mount, accessories, and belt

• Reinstall the crank pulley and install a new crankshaft pulley bolt using a torque wrench 40-300 Nm and torque angle gauge.
• Torque to Ford specification (torque-to-yield procedure).
• Reinstall accessory brackets with E-Torx socket set E8-E14 and torque wrench.
• Reinstall the engine mount and remove the engine support bar only after all mount hardware is tightened.
• Reinstall the serpentine belt using the serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive.

Step 14: Reinstall valve covers and intake

• Install new valve cover gaskets and reinstall covers using a torque wrench 10-100 Nm.
• Torque to Ford specification (small fasteners—go slow).
• Reinstall intake ducting and connectors using socket set 8mm-21mm and Torx bit set T20-T55.

Step 15: Refill fluids

• Refill engine oil and install a new filter using appropriate socket set 8mm-21mm (as needed for splash shields).
• Refill coolant with the correct spec coolant.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and let it idle; watch for leaks at the timing cover and valve covers.
• Check coolant level again after the thermostat opens, then top off as needed.
• Listen for abnormal rattles; a brief first-start noise can happen while tensioners fully pressurize.
• If the check engine light appears, scan for codes; cam/crank correlation issues usually mean timing is off and must be rechecked.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $2,000-$4,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts only)

You Save: $1,650-$3,400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-14 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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