🔧 Escape - Timing Drive Inspection

Your Escape’s 2.0L turbo engine does not use a timing belt. It uses an internal timing chain, which is oil-lubricated and not a normal maintenance replacement item like a belt.

If you are hearing chain rattle, have cam/crank correlation codes, rough running, or metal in the oil, the timing chain system may need diagnosis or replacement. This is an advanced engine repair because incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Do not attempt to “replace a timing belt” on your Escape, because there is no timing belt to replace.
• ⚠️ Timing chain work requires exact camshaft and crankshaft positioning. One tooth off can cause poor running or engine damage.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount. The engine can shift or drop if unsupported.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator, or engine wiring.
• ⚠️ Work only on a cool engine. Coolant and oil can burn skin if the engine is hot.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands if the vehicle is raised. Never rely on a floor jack alone.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Metric socket set 7mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
• 1/4-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench 5-80 ft-lbs
• Torque wrench 50-250 ft-lbs
• Torx T30 socket
• Torx T40 socket
• E-Torx socket set E8-E18
• Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
• Camshaft holding tool set (specialty)
• Crankshaft timing pin (specialty)
• Engine support bar 1000-lb rated (specialty)
• Floor jack 3-ton rated
• Jack stands 3-ton rated
• Wheel chocks
• Trim clip removal tool
• Plastic scraper
• Gasket scraper
• Drain pan 10-quart
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

A camshaft holding tool locks the cams in the correct position.

A crankshaft timing pin locks the crankshaft at the timing position.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
• Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
• Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover gasket/sealant set - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
• Engine oil 5W-30 synthetic - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant compatible with Ford orange/yellow specification - Qty: As needed
• RTV silicone sealant for timing cover - Qty: 1 tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧊 Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or touching the turbo-side components.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
• 📌 This procedure assumes timing chain replacement on the 2.0L turbo engine, not timing belt replacement.
• 📌 If you only wanted scheduled maintenance, no timing belt service is required on your Escape.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
• Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery post.
• Take a photo before unplugging connectors.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack 3-ton rated to lift the front of your Escape at the approved front jacking point.
• Place jack stands 3-ton rated under the approved support points.
• Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove Lower Shields and Right Front Wheel

• Use a 21mm socket to remove the right front wheel lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
• Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove the lower splash shield and right inner fender liner fasteners.
• Reinstall wheel lug nuts later to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant

• Place a drain pan 10-quart under the engine.
• Use the correct-size socket from the metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove the engine oil drain plug.
• Use a funnel and drain pan to capture coolant from the radiator drain or lower hose area.
• Reinstall the oil drain plug to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove Intake Ducting and Upper Covers

• Use a 7mm socket to loosen intake tube clamps.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to release plastic retainers.
• Lift off the engine appearance cover by hand.
• Unplug nearby electrical connectors by pressing the lock tabs gently.

Step 6: Remove the Accessory Drive Belt

• Use a metric wrench set 8mm-19mm or matching socket to rotate the belt tensioner.
• Slide the accessory belt off the pulleys.
• Draw a belt routing picture before removal if you plan to reuse the belt.
• Replace a cracked or shiny belt now.

Step 7: Support the Engine

• Install the engine support bar 1000-lb rated across the upper body support points.
• Attach the support chains to the engine lift points.
• Take light tension on the support bar before removing the engine mount.

Step 8: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use the metric socket set 7mm-21mm and metric wrench set 8mm-19mm to remove the right engine mount fasteners.
• Lift the mount out carefully.
• Do not place fingers between the mount and body while the engine is supported.
• During installation, tighten mount fasteners to the current Ford service specification for your exact mount position.

Step 9: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley

• Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and correct socket from the metric socket set 7mm-21mm to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Use the harmonic balancer puller (specialty) to remove the crankshaft pulley.
• Discard the old crankshaft pulley bolt if it is torque-to-yield. Torque-to-yield means the bolt stretches and should not be reused.

Step 10: Remove the Valve Cover

• Use a Torx T30 socket and metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove ignition coil and valve cover fasteners.
• Lift the valve cover straight up.
• Use a plastic scraper to clean gasket surfaces without gouging aluminum.

Step 11: Set Engine to Timing Position

• Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt area to rotate the engine clockwise only.
• Install the crankshaft timing pin (specialty) when the crankshaft reaches the timing position.
• Install the camshaft holding tool set (specialty) at the rear of the camshafts.
• Do not force the tools. If they do not fit, rotate the engine one full turn clockwise and try again.

Step 12: Remove the Front Timing Cover

• Use a Torx T40 socket, E-Torx socket set E8-E18, and metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove timing cover fasteners.
• Note bolt locations because lengths may differ.
• Use a plastic scraper to gently separate the cover.
• Do not pry against sealing surfaces with a screwdriver.

Step 13: Remove Timing Chain Tensioner, Guides, and Chain

• Use the correct socket from the metric socket set 7mm-21mm to remove the timing chain tensioner.
• Use the Torx T30 socket or matching socket to remove chain guide fasteners.
• Remove the timing chain from the sprockets.
• Keep the camshaft holding tools installed while the chain is off.

Step 14: Install the New Timing Chain System

• Install the new timing chain guides using the correct socket from the metric socket set 7mm-21mm.
• Install the new timing chain with colored links aligned to the timing marks, if supplied.
• Install the new timing chain tensioner.
• Use a torque wrench 5-80 ft-lbs to tighten guide and tensioner bolts to the current Ford specification for your exact bolt locations.
• Release the tensioner only after the chain, guides, and timing tools are correctly installed.

Step 15: Verify Timing by Hand

• Remove the camshaft holding tool set (specialty) and crankshaft timing pin (specialty).
• Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
• Reinstall the timing tools to confirm the crankshaft and camshafts return to the correct locked positions.
• If the tools do not fit, stop and reset timing before continuing.

Step 16: Clean and Reseal the Timing Cover

• Use a gasket scraper and plastic scraper to clean old sealant from the engine and timing cover.
• Wipe the surfaces with clean shop towels.
• Apply RTV silicone sealant for timing cover in the Ford-specified bead pattern.
• Install a new front crankshaft seal before fitting the cover.

Step 17: Reinstall the Timing Cover and Crankshaft Pulley

• Use the metric socket set 7mm-21mm, Torx T40 socket, and E-Torx socket set E8-E18 to install cover fasteners.
• Use a torque wrench 5-80 ft-lbs to tighten timing cover bolts evenly to Ford specification.
• Install the crankshaft pulley with a new crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Use a torque wrench 50-250 ft-lbs and follow the Ford torque-plus-angle procedure for the new crankshaft pulley bolt.

Step 18: Reinstall Valve Cover, Engine Mount, and Belt

• Install the new valve cover gasket.
• Use a Torx T30 socket and torque wrench 5-80 ft-lbs to reinstall the valve cover fasteners evenly.
• Use the metric socket set 7mm-21mm to reinstall the right engine mount.
• Use a metric wrench set 8mm-19mm to rotate the tensioner and reinstall the accessory drive belt.

Step 19: Reinstall Shields, Wheel, Oil, and Coolant

• Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to reinstall splash shields and the fender liner.
• Use a 21mm socket to install the right front wheel.
• Use a torque wrench 50-250 ft-lbs to tighten wheel lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• Use a funnel to refill engine oil with 5W-30 synthetic.
• Use a funnel to refill coolant with Ford-compatible coolant.

Step 20: Reconnect Battery and Initial Start

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Watch for oil leaks, coolant leaks, warning lights, or unusual rattling.
• Shut the engine off immediately if it runs rough or makes loud chain noise.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the engine oil level after the first idle cycle and top off if needed.
• ✅ Check coolant level after the thermostat opens and the engine cools back down.
• ✅ Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then inspect again for leaks.
• ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes before driving further.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $1,200-$2,500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.