🔧 Edge - Timing Chain Replacement

Your Edge’s 2.0L EcoBoost uses a timing chain (not a timing belt). Replacing it is a big, precision job because the chain is inside the engine and the cam/crank timing must be locked in place so the engine runs correctly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-14 hours

Assumption: stock 2.0L EcoBoost; torque values vary—use factory specs.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Let the engine cool fully before starting (hot coolant/oil burns).
• 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking.
• 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 You must lock the camshafts/crankshaft at TDC; incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage.
• 🛑 Use eye protection when scraping sealant and using brake cleaner.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
• Deep metric socket set 8mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-21mm
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-80 ft-lbs
• Torque wrench 50-250 ft-lbs
• Torque angle gauge (specialty)
• Torx bit set T20-T55
• E-Torx socket set E8-E14
• Allen bit socket set 4mm-10mm
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat trim pry tool
• Serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive
• Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
• Crank pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Ford 2.0L EcoBoost timing tool kit (cam locks + crank TDC pin) (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Floor jack with wood block
• Gasket scraper (plastic)
• Razor scraper
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Funnel
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit (chain + guides + tensioner) - Qty: 1
• Front cover sealant (RTV silicone, Ford-spec equivalent) - Qty: 1
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft pulley bolt (single-use) - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (Motorcraft Yellow or compatible) - Qty: 2 gallons
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Plan for downtime: you must let RTV sealant cure before final running checks.
• Lay out bolts by location (cardboard “bolt map” helps a lot).
• A “timing tool” locks cam/crank so timing stays perfect.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the vehicle and remove splash shields

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and place the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the right front wheel using a 21mm socket.
• Remove the right inner fender liner/splash shield fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.

Step 2: Drain fluids (coolant and oil)

• Place a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the radiator drain and open it using pliers (if equipped) or by hand.
• Drain engine oil by removing the drain plug with a 15mm socket (common size) and remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench if needed.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford workshop manual).

Step 3: Remove the intake ducting and engine cover

• Remove the engine cover by pulling upward by hand.
• Loosen clamps using a flathead screwdriver (or 8mm socket depending on clamp type) and remove the intake duct.

Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt

• Rotate the belt tensioner using a serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive and slide the belt off.
• Take a photo of the belt routing first.

Step 5: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount

• Install an engine support bar (specialty) over the strut towers and lightly support the engine.
• If needed, use a floor jack with wood block under the oil pan for gentle support (do not lift hard).
• Remove mount bolts using a metric socket set 13mm-18mm as required.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford workshop manual).

Step 6: Remove the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer)

• Hold the crank pulley using a crank pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Remove the crank bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and appropriate socket.
• Remove the pulley using a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty).
• Replace the crank bolt (single-use).

Step 7: Remove the valve cover

• Unplug coils and remove them using a 8mm socket (common) and a gentle twist/pull.
• Remove valve cover bolts using an E-Torx socket or 8mm/10mm socket as equipped.
• Carefully lift the valve cover off with a flat trim pry tool.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford workshop manual).

Step 8: Set cylinder #1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) and lock the timing

• Rotate the engine by hand at the crank using a socket and 1/2" drive ratchet until #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke.
• Install the Ford 2.0L EcoBoost timing tool kit (cam locks + crank TDC pin) (specialty).
• TDC means the piston is at the top.

Step 9: Remove the front cover

• Remove front cover fasteners using a metric socket set 8mm-13mm and E-Torx socket set E8-E14 as required.
• Carefully break the seal with a plastic gasket scraper and flat trim pry tool (do not gouge aluminum).
• Clean sealing surfaces using brake cleaner spray, shop rags, and a razor scraper very lightly.

Step 10: Remove the timing chain, guides, and tensioner

• Relieve/remove the tensioner using the appropriate socket or Torx bit depending on design.
• Remove chain guides using a metric socket or Torx bit.
• Remove the chain, keeping the cam/crank locked with the timing tool kit (specialty).

Step 11: Install the new chain, guides, and tensioner

• Install new guides using the correct socket or Torx bit.
• Route the new chain according to the colored links/timing marks and the locked tool positions using a paint marker to double-check alignment.
• Install the new tensioner and release/set it per the kit instructions.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford workshop manual).
• If marks don’t line up, stop and recheck.

Step 12: Reinstall the front cover with RTV and a new crank seal

• Install a new front crankshaft seal squarely (use a suitable driver from the harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) if it includes seal drivers).
• Apply front cover sealant (RTV silicone, Ford-spec equivalent) in a continuous bead on the cover mating surface.
• Install the front cover and hand-start all bolts using a ratchet.
• Tighten bolts evenly using a torque wrench.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford workshop manual).

Step 13: Reinstall the crank pulley and new crank bolt

• Install the crank pulley.
• Install the new crank bolt and tighten using a torque wrench plus torque angle gauge (specialty).
• Torque to factory specification + angle (Ford workshop manual).

Step 14: Reinstall valve cover, mount, belt, and intake

• Install the valve cover with a new valve cover gasket set and tighten using a torque wrench.
• Reinstall ignition coils and connectors using a 8mm socket as needed.
• Reinstall the right engine mount using a metric socket set and tighten using a torque wrench.
• Install the serpentine belt using a serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive.
• Reinstall intake ducting using a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford workshop manual).

Step 15: Refill fluids and reassemble splash shield/wheel

• Install a new oil filter and refill oil using a funnel.
• Refill coolant using a funnel and bleed air per Ford procedure (fill slowly, run heater on full hot later).
• Reinstall splash shields using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.
• Reinstall the wheel using a 21mm socket.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford workshop manual).

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Before starting, rotate the engine by hand 2 full turns using a ratchet and re-check timing tool fit/mark alignment.
• Start the engine and let it idle. Check for oil leaks at the front cover and valve cover.
• Bring the engine to operating temp and verify the heater blows hot (helps confirm coolant is purged).
• After a short test drive, recheck coolant level and inspect for leaks again.
• Any rattling = shut off and recheck immediately.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $1,450-$2,600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-14 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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