🔧 Renegade - Timing Chain Replacement

Your Renegade’s 2.4L engine uses a timing chain, not a timing belt. The chain is internal (behind the front cover) and replacement is a big job because the engine must be set at exact timing marks and resealed to prevent oil/coolant leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant.
• 🧤 Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking.
• 🧱 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🪝 The right-side engine mount comes off; support the engine from above before removing it.
• 🔥 Sealant and fluids are messy—wear gloves and safety glasses.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-21mm
• Torx bit set T20-T50
• E-Torx socket set E8-E18
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Harmonic balancer puller kit
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Timing holding/locking tool set for 2.4L (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Plastic razor scraper
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit (chain, guides, tensioner) - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover gasket set or RTV sealant (OEM-approved) - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
• Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (OAT, 50/50 premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front safely with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Plan for sealing time: the front cover uses RTV sealant (liquid gasket), which must be applied to clean, dry surfaces.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove splash shields and drain coolant

• Remove the lower splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and Torx bit set T20-T30.
• Place a drain pan under the radiator drain, then drain coolant.

Step 2: Remove the right front wheel and access area

• Remove the right front wheel using a 19mm socket.
• Remove the inner fender liner using a trim clip removal tool and Torx bit set T20-T30.

Step 3: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and tension it to hold engine weight. Support first, unbolt second.
• Remove the right engine mount fasteners using a metric socket set 15mm-18mm and E-Torx socket set as needed.
• Reinstallation note: Torque all engine mount fasteners to factory specification (do not guess—use service info).

Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt and front drive components

• Release belt tension using a breaker bar 1/2" on the belt tensioner, then remove the belt.
• If equipped in the way, unbolt accessory brackets using a metric socket set and E-Torx socket set and move aside without stressing wiring/hoses.

Step 5: Remove the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer)

• Remove the crank bolt using a breaker bar 1/2" and correct metric socket.
• Use a harmonic balancer puller kit to pull the pulley off straight.
• Reinstallation note: Torque the crank bolt to factory specification. This is critical for engine safety.

Step 6: Remove the valve cover

• Disconnect any hoses/connectors in the way, then remove valve cover bolts using a metric socket set.
• Lift the cover off carefully; do not gouge sealing surfaces. Use a plastic razor scraper if needed.
• Reinstallation note: Torque valve cover bolts to factory specification.

Step 7: Set cylinder #1 to TDC and lock the timing

• Rotate the engine by hand at the crank using a metric socket and breaker bar 1/2" until timing marks align at TDC (Top Dead Center = piston at the top of its travel).
• Install the timing holding/locking tool set for 2.4L (specialty) to keep the cam/crank from moving.
• Do not rotate the engine once the chain is removed.

Step 8: Remove the front timing cover

• Remove front cover bolts using a metric socket set and E-Torx socket set.
• Gently separate the cover using a pry bar only at designated pry points. Don’t pry on sealing faces.
• Clean all old RTV from both surfaces using a plastic razor scraper, brake cleaner spray, and shop rags.

Step 9: Replace timing chain, guides, and tensioner

• Relieve and remove the chain tensioner using the metric socket set.
• Remove chain guides using the metric socket set or E-Torx socket set.
• Remove the chain and install the new chain aligned to the timing marks per the timing kit instructions.
• Install new guides and tensioner; Torque fasteners to factory specification.

Step 10: Install new front crank seal and reseal the timing cover

• Install the crankshaft front seal squarely (do not deform it) using a suitable driver from the harmonic balancer puller kit or a flat seal driver tool.
• Apply OEM-approved RTV sealant to the timing cover per bead locations in service information.
• Install the cover and tighten bolts evenly using a torque wrench; Torque to factory specification.

Step 11: Reassemble mount, belt drive, and covers

• Reinstall the crank pulley and crank bolt using a torque wrench 1/2"; Torque to factory specification.
• Reinstall accessory brackets using a torque wrench; Torque to factory specification.
• Reinstall the right engine mount using a torque wrench; Torque to factory specification.
• Install the new serpentine belt using a breaker bar 1/2" to rotate the tensioner.
• Reinstall the valve cover with a new gasket using a torque wrench 3/8"; Torque to factory specification.
• Reinstall the fender liner and splash shield using Torx bit set and trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket; Torque lug nuts to factory specification.

Step 12: Refill fluids and reconnect battery

• Refill coolant using a funnel with the correct OAT 50/50 premix.
• Change oil and filter using a metric socket set, drain pan, and funnel.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen: no rattling, slapping, or squealing.
• Check for oil leaks around the timing cover and crank seal area.
• Bring engine to operating temperature and verify heater output, then recheck coolant level after cool-down.
• If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes (timing correlation codes mean timing is off and the engine should be shut down).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,300-$2,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $1,050-$1,950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-10 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.