🔧 Expedition - Timing Chain Replacement

Your Expedition’s 3.5L EcoBoost uses a timing chain, not a timing belt. Replacing it is a major engine-front teardown because the chain(s), guides, tensioners, and cam phasers must stay perfectly timed to prevent severe engine damage.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 10-16 hours

Assumption: Stock 3.5L EcoBoost; procedure varies by build.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; hot coolant/parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench to prevent accidental cranking.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle securely on jack stands (3-ton minimum); never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not rotate the crank/cams with the chain removed; valve-to-piston contact can occur.
• ⚠️ Use the correct Ford timing holding/locking tools; “eyeballing” timing is not safe on this engine.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-250 ft-lbs
• Torx bit set T20-T55
• E-Torx socket set E8-E14
• Serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive
• Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
• Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Ford 3.5L EcoBoost cam/crank timing tool kit (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar 18"
• Gasket scraper plastic
• Drain pan 10-quart
• Funnel
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain set - Qty: 1
• Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
• Timing chain tensioners - Qty: 1 set
• Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Water pump gasket - Qty: 1
• RTV silicone sealant (engine timing cover type) - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (Motorcraft yellow equivalent) - Qty: 3-4 gallons
• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
• Cam phaser bolts - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm wrench.
• Raise the front and support it with jack stands (3-ton minimum) under the frame.
• Place a drain pan 10-quart under the radiator area; you will drain coolant.
• Take photos as you go; it helps a lot.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the intake ducting and engine cover

• Remove the engine cover by pulling upward (it’s held by grommets); use nitrile gloves for grip.
• Loosen intake clamps using a flathead screwdriver and move the ducting aside.

Step 2: Drain coolant

• Open the degas bottle cap slowly once the engine is cool.
• Drain coolant into a drain pan 10-quart.

Step 3: Remove the accessory drive belt

• Relieve belt tension with a serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive and slip the belt off.
• Draw a belt routing sketch first.

Step 4: Remove the radiator fan/shroud (as needed for space)

• Disconnect electrical connectors and remove fasteners with a metric socket set 8mm-13mm.
• Use a trim clip removal tool for plastic push-pins.

Step 5: Remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer)

• Hold the pulley using a crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Remove the crank bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and appropriate socket.
• Pull the pulley using a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty).
• Torque to 0 Nm (0 ft-lbs) (removal step).

Step 6: Remove valve covers to access cam timing points

• Unplug coils/connectors and remove valve cover bolts with a metric socket set 8mm-10mm.
• Carefully lift covers off; use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old gasket material.

Step 7: Set cylinder 1 to TDC and install timing holding tools

• Rotate the crankshaft clockwise using a 1/2" drive breaker bar until timing marks align.
• Install the Ford 3.5L EcoBoost cam/crank timing tool kit (specialty) (these tools lock the cams/crank in the correct position so timing can’t slip).
• Torque to 0 Nm (0 ft-lbs) (positioning step).

Step 8: Remove the front timing cover

• Remove front cover fasteners using a metric socket set 8mm-13mm and E-Torx socket set E8-E14.
• Gently break the seal with a pry bar 18" in approved pry points only.
• Do not gouge aluminum sealing surfaces.

Step 9: Replace chains, guides, and tensioners

• Relieve/remove tensioners using an E-Torx socket set E8-E14.
• Remove guides using a metric socket set 8mm-10mm.
• Install new guides and tensioners using a torque wrench 10-250 ft-lbs.
• Install the new chain(s) aligned to colored links/marks per the timing tool kit positioning.
• Torque to 0 Nm (0 ft-lbs) (component fit-up step; final torques vary by fastener).

Step 10: Reinstall the timing cover with new seal and RTV

• Clean mating surfaces using a plastic gasket scraper and shop rags.
• Install a new crank seal in the cover (if applicable) using a suitable driver and gentle pressure.
• Apply a thin bead of RTV silicone sealant (engine timing cover type) at the specified joints.
• Install the cover and hand-start bolts; tighten evenly using a torque wrench 10-250 ft-lbs.
• Torque to 0 Nm (0 ft-lbs) (final torque values depend on bolt location).

Step 11: Reinstall crank pulley with a new bolt

• Install the pulley and a new crank bolt using a metric socket set and crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Tighten using a torque wrench 10-250 ft-lbs.
• Torque to 0 Nm (0 ft-lbs) (final torque is torque-to-yield and must be verified).

Step 12: Reinstall valve covers and accessories

• Install new valve cover gaskets and reinstall covers using a metric socket set 8mm-10mm.
• Reinstall the serpentine belt using a serpentine belt tool 3/8" drive.
• Reinstall the fan/shroud and intake ducting using a metric socket set 8mm-13mm and flathead screwdriver.

Step 13: Refill fluids

• Refill coolant using a funnel and the correct coolant mixture.
• Change engine oil and filter after reassembly.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery using a 10mm wrench.
• Start the engine and listen for abnormal rattles; shut down immediately if heard.
• Check for oil and coolant leaks around the timing cover and hoses.
• Top off coolant after the first full heat cycle and cool-down.
• Recheck fluid levels the next morning.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $2,500-$5,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $2,050-$3,800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 10-16 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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