🔧 Tucson - Timing Drive Inspection

Your Tucson’s 2.4L engine does not use a timing belt. It uses an internal timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and is not a normal maintenance replacement item like a belt.

If you are hearing rattling on startup, have cam/crank correlation codes, poor running, or metal debris in the oil, the timing chain system may need diagnosis or replacement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ This is an advanced engine timing repair. Incorrect timing can cause serious engine damage.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the right-side engine mount.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator, or harnesses.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or removing timing covers.
• ⚠️ Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts independently once the timing chain is removed.
• ⚠️ A torque wrench is required. A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured tightness so parts are not damaged or left loose.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Metric socket set 8mm-22mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-250 Nm
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm
• Socket extensions 3-inch and 6-inch
• Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Drain pan 10-quart minimum
• Plastic trim clip remover
• Gasket scraper plastic
• Razor scraper
• Brake cleaner aerosol
• Shop rags
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
• Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
• Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
• Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
• Timing cover sealant RTV - Qty: 1 tube
• Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic or 5W-30 synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Long-life coolant compatible with Hyundai aluminum engines - Qty: As needed
• Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Remove the right front wheel if extra access is needed, using the correct lug socket from your metric socket set 8mm-22mm.
• Use a paint marker to mark connectors, brackets, and hose positions before removal.
• Take photos before each removal step.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect Power and Remove Covers

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove any upper engine cover clips if equipped.
• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm to remove the plastic engine cover fasteners.
• Set all bolts in labeled groups so they return to the same places.

Step 2: Drain Coolant and Engine Oil

• Place a drain pan 10-quart minimum under the radiator drain area.
• Open the radiator drain carefully by hand or with a suitable tool from the metric wrench set 8mm-19mm, depending on plug style.
• Move the drain pan 10-quart minimum under the engine oil drain plug.
• Use the correct socket from the metric socket set 8mm-22mm to remove the oil drain plug.
• Reinstall the oil drain plug with a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm: Torque to 35-45 Nm (26-33 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Remove Accessory Drive Belt

• Draw the belt routing with a paint marker or take a clear photo.
• Use the proper socket from the metric socket set 8mm-22mm and a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to rotate the belt tensioner.
• Slide the accessory belt off the pulleys by hand while holding tension off the belt.
• Slowly release the tensioner.
• Never let the tensioner snap back.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the upper engine bay.
• Attach the support chain to a strong factory engine lifting point.
• Lightly tension the support bar until it supports the engine weight.
• Do not lift the engine hard. Just support it.

Step 5: Remove Right-Side Engine Mount

• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm, socket extensions 3-inch and 6-inch, and a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the right-side engine mount bolts.
• Remove the mount bracket bolts using the correct socket from the metric socket set 8mm-22mm.
• Lift the mount out carefully.
• During installation, tighten mount fasteners with a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-250 Nm: Torque to 65-95 Nm (48-70 ft-lbs), unless the replacement mount instructions specify otherwise.

Step 6: Remove Valve Cover

• Use a paint marker to label ignition coil connectors and hose locations.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts if the coils block the valve cover.
• Use a plastic trim clip remover to release wiring clips from the valve cover.
• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm to remove valve cover bolts.
• Lift the valve cover straight up. If stuck, gently work around the edge by hand.
• For installation, tighten valve cover bolts with a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm: Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).

Step 7: Remove Crankshaft Pulley

• Install the crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty) to hold the pulley still.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and the correct socket from the metric socket set 8mm-22mm to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Use a harmonic balancer puller (specialty) to remove the crankshaft pulley if it does not slide off by hand.
• For installation, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-250 Nm: Torque to 180-190 Nm (133-140 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Remove Timing Cover

• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm and socket extensions 3-inch and 6-inch to remove timing cover bolts.
• Note bolt length and location. Timing cover bolts may be different lengths.
• Use a plastic trim clip remover only at safe pry points to gently separate the cover.
• Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.
• Clean old sealant using a gasket scraper plastic, razor scraper, brake cleaner aerosol, and shop rags.

Step 9: Set Engine to Top Dead Center

• Top Dead Center means cylinder 1 is at the top of its compression stroke and timing marks line up.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and correct crankshaft socket from the metric socket set 8mm-22mm to rotate the engine clockwise only.
• Line up the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks according to the marks on the sprockets and chain system.
• Use a paint marker to mark the old chain and sprocket positions before removal.
• Clockwise rotation only.

Step 10: Remove Timing Chain Tensioner and Guides

• The tensioner is a spring/oil-pressure device that keeps the timing chain tight.
• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm to remove the chain guide bolts.
• Remove the guides and chain carefully.
• Do not rotate the camshafts or crankshaft after the chain is removed.
• For installation, tighten chain guide and tensioner fasteners with a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm: Torque to 10-12 Nm (89-106 in-lbs).

Step 11: Install New Timing Chain Kit

• Compare the new timing chain kit with the removed parts before installation.
• Install the new timing chain over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets with the colored chain links aligned to the timing marks.
• Install the new guides using a metric socket set 8mm-22mm.
• Install the new tensioner using a metric socket set 8mm-22mm.
• Release the tensioner pin only after all timing marks are lined up.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm to tighten guide and tensioner bolts: Torque to 10-12 Nm (89-106 in-lbs).

Step 12: Verify Timing Before Closing Engine

• Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and crankshaft socket from the metric socket set 8mm-22mm to rotate the engine clockwise by hand two full turns.
• Stop if you feel hard resistance.
• Recheck that camshaft and crankshaft timing marks line up again.
• If marks do not line up, remove and reset the chain before continuing.
• Do not use the starter for this check.

Step 13: Reseal and Install Timing Cover

• Clean sealing surfaces with brake cleaner aerosol and shop rags.
• Apply timing cover sealant RTV in a continuous bead around the timing cover sealing surface.
• Install the timing cover within the sealant working time.
• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm to hand-start all bolts first.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm to tighten timing cover bolts evenly: Torque to 10-12 Nm (89-106 in-lbs).

Step 14: Install Crankshaft Pulley and New Front Seal

• Install the new crankshaft front seal squarely into the timing cover.
• Slide the crankshaft pulley into place by hand.
• Hold the pulley with a crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-250 Nm to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt: Torque to 180-190 Nm (133-140 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reinstall Valve Cover and Engine Mount

• Install the new valve cover gasket set into the valve cover groove.
• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm to install valve cover bolts by hand first.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm to tighten valve cover bolts: Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
• Use a metric socket set 8mm-22mm to reinstall the right-side engine mount.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-250 Nm to tighten engine mount bolts: Torque to 65-95 Nm (48-70 ft-lbs).
• Remove the engine support bar (specialty) after the mount is fully tightened.

Step 16: Install Accessory Belt and Refill Fluids

• Use a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and correct socket from the metric socket set 8mm-22mm to rotate the belt tensioner.
• Install the new accessory drive belt following your belt routing photo.
• Refill engine oil with engine oil 5W-20 synthetic or 5W-30 synthetic.
• Install the new oil filter and tighten by hand until snug, then about three-quarters turn more.
• Refill the cooling system with long-life coolant compatible with Hyundai aluminum engines.

Step 17: Start and Inspect

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Use safety glasses and inspect for oil or coolant leaks.
• Listen for abnormal chain rattle, knocking, or grinding.
• If the engine runs rough or makes loud mechanical noise, shut it off immediately.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Let the engine reach operating temperature and confirm the cooling fans cycle normally.
• ✅ Check engine oil level and coolant level again after the first heat cycle.
• ✅ Inspect the timing cover, valve cover, front crank seal, and coolant drain area for leaks.
• ✅ Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks.
• ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for cam/crank timing codes before driving further.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $750-$1,750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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