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2014 Hyundai Tucson
2014 - 2015 Hyundai Tucson
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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HYUNDAI TUCSON TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION REPLACEMENT, TIMING MARKS

HYUNDAI TUCSON TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION REPLACEMENT, TIMING MARKS

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12mm
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How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2014-2015 Hyundai Tucson 2.0L (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, torque specs, timing marks, and safety tips

How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2014-2015 Hyundai Tucson 2.0L (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, torque specs, timing marks, and safety tips for 2014, 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tucson - Timing Chain Replacement

Your Tucson’s 2.0L engine uses a timing chain, not a timing belt. Replacing it means removing front engine covers, setting the engine at top dead center, locking timing alignment, and installing a new chain, guides, tensioner, and related seals.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-9 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ This is an interference-style timing job risk: incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or crank pulley area.
  • ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the right-side engine mount.
  • ⚠️ Never rotate the crankshaft or camshafts separately once the timing chain is removed.
  • ⚠️ Work only on a cold engine. Hot coolant, oil, and aluminum parts can burn you.
  • ⚠️ AWD models have tighter lower access, so take extra care around the transfer case and lower splash shields.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Metric socket set 8mm-22mm
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 20-200 Nm
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench 5-80 Nm
  • Socket extensions 3-inch and 6-inch
  • Serpentine belt tool 14mm
  • Crankshaft pulley holder (specialty)
  • Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
  • Engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty)
  • Floor jack 3-ton rated
  • Jack stands 3-ton rated
  • Wheel chocks
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Plastic scraper
  • Gasket scraper
  • Brake cleaner aerosol
  • Shop towels
  • Drain pan 10-quart
  • Paint marker
  • Feeler gauge set
  • RTV applicator nozzle
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain hydraulic tensioner - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
  • Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
  • Timing cover RTV sealant - Qty: 1 tube
  • Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic blend or full synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Coolant premix compatible with Hyundai aluminum engines - Qty: 1 gallon
  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
  • Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Tucson on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Let the engine cool completely before draining fluids or removing covers.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Raise the front of your Tucson with a 3-ton floor jack and support it with 3-ton jack stands.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • A timing chain keeps the crankshaft and camshafts synchronized. If the marks are off, the engine may not run or may be damaged.
  • A hydraulic tensioner uses engine oil pressure and spring force to keep the chain tight.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect Battery and Raise Vehicle

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal.
  • Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
  • Use a 3-ton floor jack to lift the front of your Tucson.
  • Set the vehicle securely on 3-ton jack stands.
  • Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove Lower Shields and Right Front Wheel

  • Use a 21mm socket to loosen the right front wheel lug nuts before lifting if needed.
  • Remove the right front wheel using the 21mm socket.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the lower splash shield and right inner fender liner fasteners.
  • Set all clips and bolts in labeled groups.
  • Take photos before removing parts.

Step 3: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant

  • Place a 10-quart drain pan under the engine oil pan.
  • Use a 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug.
  • Drain the oil fully, then reinstall the drain plug.
  • Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
  • Place the 10-quart drain pan under the radiator drain area.
  • Open the radiator drain carefully by hand or with pliers if needed.

Step 4: Remove Engine Appearance Cover and Intake Ducting

  • Lift the plastic engine cover upward by hand to release its rubber grommets.
  • Use a 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake duct clamps and mounting bolts.
  • Remove the intake ducting for more working space.

Step 5: Remove Serpentine Drive Belt

  • Use a 14mm serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
  • Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
  • Draw the belt routing with a paint marker or take a clear photo.

Step 6: Support Engine and Remove Right Engine Mount

  • Install the 1,000-lb engine support bar across the upper strut towers.
  • Attach the support chain to the engine lifting point and lightly tension it.
  • Use a floor jack 3-ton rated with a wood block under the oil pan only as a backup support.
  • Use 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the right engine mount and bracket bolts.
  • When reinstalling, tighten mount bracket bolts to Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
  • When reinstalling, tighten engine mount through-bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove Crankshaft Pulley

  • Install the crankshaft pulley holder to keep the pulley from turning.
  • Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Use the harmonic balancer puller kit to remove the crankshaft pulley if it does not slide off by hand.
  • Do not pry against the timing cover.
  • On installation, use a new crankshaft pulley bolt and tighten to Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Remove Valve Cover

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts.
  • Disconnect the coil electrical connectors by hand.
  • Remove the ignition coils and set them aside in order.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
  • Lift the valve cover off carefully.
  • When reinstalling, use a new valve cover gasket and tighten bolts to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 9: Set Engine to Top Dead Center

  • Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt area to rotate the engine clockwise only.
  • Top dead center means piston number 1 is at the top of its compression stroke.
  • Align the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the engine block.
  • Confirm the camshaft timing marks line up with the cylinder head reference marks.
  • Use a paint marker to highlight each timing mark before removing the chain.
  • Clockwise only prevents chain slack errors.

Step 10: Remove Timing Cover

  • Use 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to remove timing cover bolts.
  • Note bolt lengths and locations because several bolts are different sizes.
  • Use a plastic scraper to gently separate the timing cover from the engine.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.
  • Clean old RTV with a gasket scraper, plastic scraper, brake cleaner aerosol, and shop towels.
  • When reinstalling, tighten small timing cover bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • When reinstalling, tighten larger timing cover bolts to Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Remove Chain Tensioner, Guides, and Timing Chain

  • Use a 12mm socket to remove the hydraulic chain tensioner bolts.
  • Remove the tensioner slowly to avoid spring movement.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the chain guides.
  • Slide the timing chain off the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.
  • Do not rotate the camshafts or crankshaft after chain removal.
  • When reinstalling guides, tighten guide bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • When reinstalling tensioner bolts, tighten to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 12: Install New Timing Chain and Guides

  • Use the colored links on the new timing chain to match the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks.
  • Install the fixed guide first using a 10mm socket.
  • Install the timing chain over the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprockets.
  • Install the movable guide using a 10mm socket.
  • Use your paint marker marks to double-check alignment.
  • All factory timing marks must line up before installing the tensioner.

Step 13: Install and Release Hydraulic Tensioner

  • Install the new hydraulic tensioner using a 12mm socket.
  • Tighten tensioner bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Pull the retaining pin from the tensioner by hand or with pliers.
  • The tensioner should extend and press the guide against the chain.
  • Use a feeler gauge set only if checking chain guide clearance is required by the kit instructions.

Step 14: Verify Timing by Hand

  • Use a 22mm socket to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
  • Stop if you feel hard resistance.
  • Bring the engine back to top dead center.
  • Recheck the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks.
  • If marks do not align, remove the tensioner and reset the chain before continuing.
  • Never force engine rotation.

Step 15: Reinstall Timing Cover with New Sealant

  • Use brake cleaner aerosol and shop towels to clean both sealing surfaces until dry.
  • Install the new crankshaft front oil seal into the timing cover.
  • Apply a continuous bead of timing cover RTV sealant with the RTV applicator nozzle.
  • Place the timing cover onto the engine carefully without smearing the sealant.
  • Use 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to install all bolts finger-tight first.
  • Tighten small bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Tighten larger bolts to Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).
  • Allow RTV to cure as directed on the tube before adding oil if required.

Step 16: Reinstall Crank Pulley, Engine Mount, and Belt

  • Slide the crankshaft pulley into place by hand.
  • Use the crankshaft pulley holder, 22mm socket, and torque wrench 20-200 Nm to tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Tighten to Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the right engine mount using 14mm socket and 17mm socket.
  • Tighten mount bracket bolts to Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten through-bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
  • Use the 14mm serpentine belt tool to reinstall the new serpentine drive belt.

Step 17: Reinstall Valve Cover, Coils, Intake, and Shields

  • Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover groove.
  • Use a 10mm socket to install valve cover bolts.
  • Tighten valve cover bolts to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
  • Install ignition coils using a 10mm socket.
  • Tighten ignition coil bolts to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
  • Reconnect coil electrical connectors by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to reinstall the intake ducting.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket to reinstall splash shields and fender liner.
  • Install the right front wheel with a 21mm socket.
  • Tighten wheel lug nuts to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Refill Fluids and Reconnect Battery

  • Install a new oil filter by hand.
  • Refill the engine with 5W-20 engine oil.
  • Refill the cooling system with compatible premixed coolant.
  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal.
  • Tighten the battery terminal snugly; do not overtighten.

✅ After Repair

  • Before starting, crank the engine only after confirming all tools are removed from the engine bay.
  • Start your Tucson and let it idle. It may rattle briefly while oil pressure fills the new tensioner.
  • Shut the engine off immediately if rattling continues, the check engine light flashes, or it runs rough.
  • Check around the timing cover, valve cover, oil filter, and drain plug for leaks.
  • Let the engine reach operating temperature and verify the cooling fans cycle on.
  • Top off coolant after air purges from the system.
  • After a short test drive, recheck oil level, coolant level, and all visible sealing areas.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $950-$1,450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-9 hours.


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Guide for Engine Timing Chain Kit replace for these Hyundai vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2015 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.0L-
2015 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.4L-
2014 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.0L-
2014 Hyundai Tucson-Inline 4 2.4L-
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