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2013 Nissan Altima
2013 Nissan Altima
Inline 4 2.5L Sedan
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Nissan Altima
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  • 2013
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  • How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
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How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt, plus tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013

How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt, plus tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Altima - Timing Chain Inspection

Your Altima’s 2.5L engine does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and is not replaced as normal maintenance like a belt.

If you hear chain rattle, have timing-related fault codes, or the engine is running poorly, the timing chain system should be diagnosed before replacing parts.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Do not attempt timing chain replacement as a first repair unless you have strong mechanical help nearby.
  • ⚠️ Incorrect chain timing can cause engine damage or a no-start condition.
  • ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount parts.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. This helps prevent accidental cranking.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near coolant, oil, or exhaust parts.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands any time the vehicle is lifted. Never rely on a jack alone.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb
  • Torque angle gauge
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Plastic trim clip remover
  • Serpentine belt tool
  • Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Drain pan 10-quart minimum
  • Gasket scraper plastic
  • Brake cleaner aerosol
  • Shop towels
  • Paint marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
  • Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
  • Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
  • Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
  • Front timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil 0W-20 synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant compatible with Nissan blue long-life coolant - Qty: as needed
  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • 🧊 Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
  • 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • 🧰 A timing chain controls when the valves and pistons move. Exact alignment is critical.
  • 🧰 A harmonic balancer puller is a tool that removes the crank pulley without damaging it.
  • 🧰 An engine support bar holds the engine safely from above when a mount is removed.
  • 🧰 A torque angle gauge helps tighten bolts an exact number of degrees after normal torque.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm This Is Not a Timing Belt Job

  • Use a flashlight and safety glasses to inspect the front of the engine area.
  • Your Altima uses a timing chain inside the engine front cover, not a rubber timing belt.
  • If the engine has no chain noise, no cam/crank timing codes, and runs normally, replacement is usually not needed.
  • Do not replace good timing parts.

Step 2: Disconnect Battery and Raise Vehicle

  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Altima.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

Step 3: Remove Lower Shields and Right Front Wheel

  • Use a 21mm socket to loosen and remove the right front wheel lug nuts if removing the wheel is needed for access.
  • Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove splash shield clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove lower splash shield fasteners.
  • Set shields and clips aside in order.

Step 4: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant

  • Place a 10-quart drain pan under the oil pan.
  • Use the correct-size socket from your set to remove the engine oil drain plug.
  • Allow the oil to drain fully.
  • Move the drain pan under the radiator drain area and drain coolant carefully.
  • Reinstall the drain plug after draining. Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove Serpentine Drive Belt

  • Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner to release belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
  • Take a phone photo first if the belt routing label is missing.
  • Photos prevent routing mistakes.

Step 6: Support the Engine

  • Install the engine support bar across the strut tower area.
  • Attach it securely to the engine lifting point.
  • Apply light tension only. Do not lift the engine high.
  • This supports the engine before removing the right-side mount.

Step 7: Remove Right Engine Mount Components

  • Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the right-side engine mount fasteners as needed for timing cover access.
  • Keep bolts grouped by location.
  • During reassembly, tighten mount fasteners to the original Nissan service specification for their exact position.
  • Do not mix mount bolts.

Step 8: Remove Crankshaft Pulley

  • Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the crankshaft pulley evenly.
  • Do not pry against the timing cover.
  • Inspect the pulley sealing surface for grooves or damage.

Step 9: Remove Valve Cover

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil fasteners.
  • Disconnect coil connectors by pressing the release tabs gently.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
  • Lift the valve cover straight up and remove the old gasket.
  • Do not drop dirt into the engine.

Step 10: Set Engine to Top Dead Center

  • Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt area to rotate the engine clockwise only.
  • Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks to the service position.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the chain-to-sprocket positions before removal.
  • Top Dead Center means piston number one is at the top of its stroke.
  • Rotate clockwise only.

Step 11: Remove Front Timing Cover

  • Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to remove the timing cover bolts.
  • Note bolt length and location as each one comes out.
  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to carefully separate the timing cover.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.
  • Clean old sealant with brake cleaner and shop towels.

Step 12: Remove Chain Tensioner and Guides

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
  • Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to remove the chain guide bolts.
  • Remove the guides and chain carefully without turning the crankshaft or camshafts.
  • A tensioner keeps the chain tight while the engine runs.

Step 13: Install New Timing Chain and Guides

  • Use the colored chain links to align with the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks.
  • Install the new timing chain guides with a 10mm or 12mm socket.
  • Install the new tensioner with a 10mm socket, but release it only after chain alignment is confirmed.
  • Verify every timing mark twice before moving on.
  • Check marks before pulling tensioner pin.

Step 14: Rotate Engine by Hand and Recheck Timing

  • Use a 22mm socket and ratchet to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
  • Stop if you feel hard contact. Do not force it.
  • Return to Top Dead Center and recheck crankshaft and camshaft mark alignment.
  • If marks are off, remove the chain and correct the timing before reassembly.

Step 15: Reseal and Install Front Timing Cover

  • Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean all sealing surfaces until dry.
  • Apply front timing cover sealant in the factory-style bead path.
  • Install a new crankshaft front seal into the cover.
  • Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to install the timing cover bolts in their original locations.
  • Tighten cover bolts evenly in stages. Use Nissan service torque values for each bolt size and position.

Step 16: Reinstall Valve Cover

  • Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover groove.
  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall valve cover bolts.
  • Tighten evenly from the center outward. Torque to 8.3 Nm (73 in-lbs)
  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall ignition coil fasteners.

Step 17: Reinstall Crankshaft Pulley and Engine Mount

  • Slide the crankshaft pulley back into place by hand.
  • Use a 22mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to Nissan specification.
  • Use a torque angle gauge if the replacement bolt procedure requires angle tightening.
  • Use 14mm and 17mm sockets to reinstall the engine mount components.
  • Remove the engine support bar only after the mount is fully secured.

Step 18: Install New Serpentine Belt

  • Route the new serpentine belt around the pulleys using the belt routing diagram or your photo.
  • Use the serpentine belt tool to move the tensioner.
  • Slide the belt onto the last pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
  • Check that the belt ribs sit fully in every pulley groove.

Step 19: Refill Oil and Coolant

  • Use a funnel to refill the engine with 0W-20 synthetic oil.
  • Install a new oil filter by hand, then snug it according to the filter instructions.
  • Refill the cooling system with Nissan-compatible blue long-life coolant.
  • Do not overfill the coolant reservoir.

Step 20: Reinstall Shields, Wheel, and Battery Cable

  • Use a 10mm socket and plastic trim clip remover to reinstall lower splash shields.
  • Use a 21mm socket to reinstall the right front wheel if removed.
  • Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern. Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)
  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Before starting, check that no tools are left in the engine bay.
  • ✅ Start the engine and listen for abnormal rattling, knocking, or scraping.
  • ✅ Watch the oil pressure warning light. Shut off immediately if it stays on.
  • ✅ Check for oil leaks around the valve cover, front cover, oil filter, and drain plug.
  • ✅ Let the engine warm up and check coolant level after air works out of the system.
  • ✅ Road test gently, then recheck oil and coolant levels.
  • ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes before driving further.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $1,000-$1,800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.


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