How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt, plus tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt, plus tools, parts, and safety tips for 2013
🔧 Altima - Timing Chain Inspection
Your Altima’s 2.5L engine does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and is not replaced as normal maintenance like a belt.
If you hear chain rattle, have timing-related fault codes, or the engine is running poorly, the timing chain system should be diagnosed before replacing parts.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not attempt timing chain replacement as a first repair unless you have strong mechanical help nearby.
- ⚠️ Incorrect chain timing can cause engine damage or a no-start condition.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount parts.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. This helps prevent accidental cranking.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near coolant, oil, or exhaust parts.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands any time the vehicle is lifted. Never rely on a jack alone.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 1/2-inch ratchet
- 1/2-inch breaker bar
- Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb
- Torque angle gauge
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Serpentine belt tool
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan 10-quart minimum
- Gasket scraper plastic
- Brake cleaner aerosol
- Shop towels
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Front timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
- Engine oil 0W-20 synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant compatible with Nissan blue long-life coolant - Qty: as needed
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧊 Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- 🧰 A timing chain controls when the valves and pistons move. Exact alignment is critical.
- 🧰 A harmonic balancer puller is a tool that removes the crank pulley without damaging it.
- 🧰 An engine support bar holds the engine safely from above when a mount is removed.
- 🧰 A torque angle gauge helps tighten bolts an exact number of degrees after normal torque.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm This Is Not a Timing Belt Job
- Use a flashlight and safety glasses to inspect the front of the engine area.
- Your Altima uses a timing chain inside the engine front cover, not a rubber timing belt.
- If the engine has no chain noise, no cam/crank timing codes, and runs normally, replacement is usually not needed.
- Do not replace good timing parts.
Step 2: Disconnect Battery and Raise Vehicle
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Altima.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
Step 3: Remove Lower Shields and Right Front Wheel
- Use a 21mm socket to loosen and remove the right front wheel lug nuts if removing the wheel is needed for access.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove splash shield clips.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove lower splash shield fasteners.
- Set shields and clips aside in order.
Step 4: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
- Place a 10-quart drain pan under the oil pan.
- Use the correct-size socket from your set to remove the engine oil drain plug.
- Allow the oil to drain fully.
- Move the drain pan under the radiator drain area and drain coolant carefully.
- Reinstall the drain plug after draining. Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Step 5: Remove Serpentine Drive Belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner to release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
- Take a phone photo first if the belt routing label is missing.
- Photos prevent routing mistakes.
Step 6: Support the Engine
- Install the engine support bar across the strut tower area.
- Attach it securely to the engine lifting point.
- Apply light tension only. Do not lift the engine high.
- This supports the engine before removing the right-side mount.
Step 7: Remove Right Engine Mount Components
- Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the right-side engine mount fasteners as needed for timing cover access.
- Keep bolts grouped by location.
- During reassembly, tighten mount fasteners to the original Nissan service specification for their exact position.
- Do not mix mount bolts.
Step 8: Remove Crankshaft Pulley
- Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the crankshaft pulley evenly.
- Do not pry against the timing cover.
- Inspect the pulley sealing surface for grooves or damage.
Step 9: Remove Valve Cover
- Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil fasteners.
- Disconnect coil connectors by pressing the release tabs gently.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
- Lift the valve cover straight up and remove the old gasket.
- Do not drop dirt into the engine.
Step 10: Set Engine to Top Dead Center
- Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt area to rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks to the service position.
- Use a paint marker to mark the chain-to-sprocket positions before removal.
- Top Dead Center means piston number one is at the top of its stroke.
- Rotate clockwise only.
Step 11: Remove Front Timing Cover
- Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to remove the timing cover bolts.
- Note bolt length and location as each one comes out.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to carefully separate the timing cover.
- Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.
- Clean old sealant with brake cleaner and shop towels.
Step 12: Remove Chain Tensioner and Guides
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
- Use a 10mm or 12mm socket to remove the chain guide bolts.
- Remove the guides and chain carefully without turning the crankshaft or camshafts.
- A tensioner keeps the chain tight while the engine runs.
Step 13: Install New Timing Chain and Guides
- Use the colored chain links to align with the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks.
- Install the new timing chain guides with a 10mm or 12mm socket.
- Install the new tensioner with a 10mm socket, but release it only after chain alignment is confirmed.
- Verify every timing mark twice before moving on.
- Check marks before pulling tensioner pin.
Step 14: Rotate Engine by Hand and Recheck Timing
- Use a 22mm socket and ratchet to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
- Stop if you feel hard contact. Do not force it.
- Return to Top Dead Center and recheck crankshaft and camshaft mark alignment.
- If marks are off, remove the chain and correct the timing before reassembly.
Step 15: Reseal and Install Front Timing Cover
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean all sealing surfaces until dry.
- Apply front timing cover sealant in the factory-style bead path.
- Install a new crankshaft front seal into the cover.
- Use 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets to install the timing cover bolts in their original locations.
- Tighten cover bolts evenly in stages. Use Nissan service torque values for each bolt size and position.
Step 16: Reinstall Valve Cover
- Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover groove.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall valve cover bolts.
- Tighten evenly from the center outward. Torque to 8.3 Nm (73 in-lbs)
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall ignition coil fasteners.
Step 17: Reinstall Crankshaft Pulley and Engine Mount
- Slide the crankshaft pulley back into place by hand.
- Use a 22mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to Nissan specification.
- Use a torque angle gauge if the replacement bolt procedure requires angle tightening.
- Use 14mm and 17mm sockets to reinstall the engine mount components.
- Remove the engine support bar only after the mount is fully secured.
Step 18: Install New Serpentine Belt
- Route the new serpentine belt around the pulleys using the belt routing diagram or your photo.
- Use the serpentine belt tool to move the tensioner.
- Slide the belt onto the last pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
- Check that the belt ribs sit fully in every pulley groove.
Step 19: Refill Oil and Coolant
- Use a funnel to refill the engine with 0W-20 synthetic oil.
- Install a new oil filter by hand, then snug it according to the filter instructions.
- Refill the cooling system with Nissan-compatible blue long-life coolant.
- Do not overfill the coolant reservoir.
Step 20: Reinstall Shields, Wheel, and Battery Cable
- Use a 10mm socket and plastic trim clip remover to reinstall lower splash shields.
- Use a 21mm socket to reinstall the right front wheel if removed.
- Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern. Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Before starting, check that no tools are left in the engine bay.
- ✅ Start the engine and listen for abnormal rattling, knocking, or scraping.
- ✅ Watch the oil pressure warning light. Shut off immediately if it stays on.
- ✅ Check for oil leaks around the valve cover, front cover, oil filter, and drain plug.
- ✅ Let the engine warm up and check coolant level after air works out of the system.
- ✅ Road test gently, then recheck oil and coolant levels.
- ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes before driving further.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)
You Save: $1,000-$1,800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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