How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost (Trim: SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost (Trim: SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step guide with timing tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Timing Belt Replacement
Your Escape’s 2.0L gas engine does not have a timing belt. It uses a timing chain inside the engine, so there is no timing belt service interval to replace like on belt-driven engines.
If you are trying to fix timing noise, chain rattle, or cam/crank timing fault codes, the correct repair is timing chain replacement, not timing belt replacement.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ This is not a beginner-friendly maintenance job; incorrect timing can damage the engine.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, wiring, or timing components.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the passenger-side engine mount.
- ⚠️ Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts separately after the timing chain is removed.
- ⚠️ Work only on a cold engine to avoid burns from hot coolant, oil, and metal parts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- Metric wrench set 8mm-18mm
- Torx socket set T30-T55
- External Torx socket set E8-E18
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Serpentine belt tool
- Ford 2.0L EcoBoost timing tool kit (specialty)
- Camshaft alignment plate (specialty)
- Crankshaft timing pin (specialty)
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Razor scraper
- Oil drain pan 10-quart
- Coolant drain pan 10-quart
- Brake cleaner
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Crankshaft front seal - Qty: 1
- Timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
- Engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set
- Engine oil 5W-30 full synthetic - Qty: 6 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Motorcraft-compatible coolant - Qty: As needed
- RTV silicone sealant engine-grade - Qty: 1 tube
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Escape on flat ground and set the parking brake.
- ❄️ Let the engine cool completely.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- 🧰 A timing tool kit locks the crankshaft and camshafts so the engine stays correctly timed.
- 📸 Take photos before removing hoses, brackets, and connectors. Photos help during reassembly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the Passenger Side
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the passenger front side of your Escape.
- Place a jack stand rated 2-ton minimum under the proper support point.
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the passenger front wheel lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and place it flat under the vehicle as a backup safety measure.
Step 2: Remove the Splash Shield and Wheel Liner
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove the wheel liner clips.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove lower splash shield fasteners.
- Pull the liner back to access the crankshaft pulley area.
Step 3: Remove Intake Parts and Top Cover
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the engine cover fasteners if equipped.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake hose clamps.
- Disconnect intake sensor connectors by pressing the lock tab by hand.
- Remove the intake duct and set it aside.
Step 4: Remove the Serpentine Belt
- The serpentine belt is the outside belt that drives accessories like the alternator and A/C compressor.
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
- Draw the belt route first.
Step 5: Support the Engine
- Install an engine support bar across the upper engine bay support areas.
- Attach the support hook to the engine lifting point.
- Lightly tension the support bar until it holds the engine weight.
- Do not lift the engine; only support it.
Step 6: Remove the Passenger-Side Engine Mount
- Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to remove the passenger-side engine mount fasteners.
- Remove the mount and bracket from the timing cover area.
- Keep bolts grouped by location.
Step 7: Remove the Valve Cover
- Use an 8mm socket to remove ignition coil bolts.
- Disconnect the ignition coil connectors by hand.
- Pull the coils straight up and set them aside in order.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove the valve cover bolts.
- Lift off the valve cover carefully.
Step 8: Lock the Engine at Top Dead Center
- Top Dead Center means cylinder 1 is at the top of its stroke in the correct timing position.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Install the crankshaft timing pin from the Ford 2.0L timing tool kit.
- Install the camshaft alignment plate at the rear of the camshafts.
Step 9: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to stop the pulley from turning.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Remove and discard the old crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller if the pulley does not slide off by hand.
Step 10: Remove the Timing Cover
- Place an oil drain pan 10-quart below the timing cover area.
- Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 13mm socket to remove the timing cover bolts.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to gently break the RTV seal.
- Remove the timing cover without gouging the metal sealing surfaces.
Step 11: Remove the Old Timing Chain Parts
- Confirm the crankshaft timing pin and camshaft alignment plate are still installed.
- Use a 10mm socket or Torx socket set T30-T55 to remove the chain tensioner.
- Use a 10mm socket or Torx socket set T30-T55 to remove the timing chain guides.
- Remove the timing chain from the sprockets.
- Do not turn the engine with the chain removed.
Step 12: Install the New Timing Chain Kit
- Place the new timing chain over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
- Match the colored chain links to the timing marks on the sprockets.
- Use a 10mm socket or Torx socket set T30-T55 to install the new chain guides.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the guide bolts to the timing kit specification.
- Install the new timing chain tensioner.
- Release the tensioner only after the chain is seated correctly.
- Check marks before releasing tensioner.
Step 13: Turn the Engine by Hand
- Remove the crankshaft timing pin and camshaft alignment plate.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
- Stop immediately if you feel hard resistance.
- Reinstall the timing tools to confirm the timing still lines up.
- If the tools do not fit, correct the timing before reassembly.
Step 14: Clean and Reseal the Timing Cover
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old RTV sealant.
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean the sealing surfaces.
- Use a razor scraper carefully on stubborn sealant only.
- Install the new crankshaft front seal.
- Apply RTV silicone sealant engine-grade to the timing cover sealing path.
Step 15: Reinstall the Timing Cover
- Carefully place the timing cover onto the engine without smearing RTV.
- Start all bolts by hand first.
- Use an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 13mm socket to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the cover fasteners in sequence.
- Torque to OEM specification by bolt size and location.
Step 16: Reinstall the Crankshaft Pulley
- Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft.
- Install a new crankshaft pulley bolt by hand.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to hold the pulley steady.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the new bolt.
- Torque to Ford crankshaft pulley bolt specification.
Step 17: Reinstall the Valve Cover
- Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover.
- Set the valve cover onto the cylinder head.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to start all bolts by hand.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the valve cover bolts evenly.
- Torque to OEM valve cover specification.
- Reinstall ignition coils with an 8mm socket.
Step 18: Reinstall Engine Mount and Belt
- Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to reinstall the passenger-side engine mount and bracket.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten mount bolts.
- Torque to OEM engine mount specification.
- Use a serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
- Route the serpentine belt correctly and release the tensioner slowly.
Step 19: Reassemble the Wheel Well and Wheel
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to reinstall wheel liner clips.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall splash shield bolts.
- Install the passenger front wheel.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten lug nuts.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 20: Reconnect Battery and Check Fluids
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Check engine oil level and top off with 5W-30 full synthetic.
- Check coolant level and top off with Motorcraft-compatible coolant.
- Look around the timing cover before starting the engine.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for abnormal chain noise.
- ✅ Check for oil leaks at the timing cover, valve cover, and crankshaft seal.
- ✅ Watch the temperature gauge and check coolant level after warm-up.
- ✅ Let the RTV cure according to the sealant label before hard driving.
- ✅ After a short test drive, recheck oil level, coolant level, and belt alignment.
- ✅ If the check engine light comes on, scan for camshaft/crankshaft timing codes before driving farther.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,500-$2,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$750 (parts only)
You Save: $1,200-$2,050 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Timing Chain Kit replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Escape | S | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | SEL | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 1.5L | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | SEL | Inline 4 1.5L | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | S | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | SEL | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 1.5L | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | SEL | Inline 4 1.5L | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | S | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 1.5L | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 1.5L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | S | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | S | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | S | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | S | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | SE | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | SEL | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | SEL | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | Titanium | Inline 4 2.0L | - |














