🔧 Forester - Timing Chain Replacement

Your Forester 2.0XT does not use a timing belt—it uses a timing chain inside the front of the engine. Chains usually last a long time, and replacement is a big job that involves removing the front timing cover, setting engine timing marks, and resealing everything to prevent oil leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-14 hours

Assumption: Torque values vary by fastener; use Subaru service specs for FA20DIT.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental starts.
• ⚠️ Support the engine safely if an engine mount is removed; use an engine support bar.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when rotating the crankshaft by hand.
• ⚠️ Timing mistakes can cause severe engine damage; double-check timing marks.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Metric socket set 8mm-22mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-22mm
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-200 Nm range
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter 3/8"
• Torx bit set
• Hex bit set
• Flat trim/panel clip tool
• Pliers set
• Hose clamp pliers
• Drain pan (at least 10 liters)
• Funnel
• Plastic razor blades
• Gasket scraper
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Crank pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Camshaft locking tools for FA20 (specialty)
• RTV sealant applicator (caulking-style)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit (primary chain, guides, tensioner) - Qty: 1
• Timing cover RTV sealant (Subaru/FIPG equivalent) - Qty: 1
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover O-rings/seals (as applicable) - Qty: 1
• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Coolant (Subaru Super Coolant equivalent) - Qty: 2 gallons
• Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
• Fresh hose clamps and push clips (optional) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the engine cover (pull upward) if equipped.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Plan for downtime: once the timing cover is off, the car cannot be moved easily.
• Camshaft locking tools hold the cams in position so timing doesn’t slip while you work.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and prep the front of the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower engine splash shield using a trim/panel clip tool and a 10mm socket.

Step 2: Drain coolant and engine oil

• Place a drain pan (at least 10 liters) under the radiator and open the drain using pliers if needed.
• Drain engine oil using a 14mm socket (typical), then remove the oil filter with a filter wrench if needed.

Step 3: Remove the intake ducting and front accessories

• Remove the intake snorkel/ducting using a flat screwdriver and 10mm socket.
• Remove the accessory drive belt by rotating the tensioner with a 14mm socket and sliding the belt off.
• Unbolt and move aside accessory components as needed (do not disconnect A/C lines) using a metric socket set 10mm-14mm.

Step 4: Remove radiator fans (creates working room)

• Unplug fan connectors by hand and release clips with a trim/panel clip tool.
• Remove fan shroud/fans with a 10mm socket, then lift out carefully.

Step 5: Support the engine (if mount removal is required for access)

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and take up light tension.
• If an engine mount bracket blocks the timing cover, remove it with a 14mm socket and 17mm socket.

Step 6: Set the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)

• Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt to rotate the engine clockwise by hand.
• Align the timing reference marks (crank and cam marks) to the TDC positions.
• Take clear photos of all marks.

Step 7: Remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer)

• Hold the pulley with a crank pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Loosen the crank bolt using a 1/2" breaker bar and 22mm socket.
• If the pulley is stuck, use a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) to remove it.

Step 8: Remove the front timing cover

• Remove all timing cover bolts using a metric socket set 10mm-12mm.
• Carefully separate the cover without gouging aluminum; use plastic razor blades and a gasket scraper gently.
• Clean mating surfaces using brake cleaner spray and shop towels.

Step 9: Lock cams and release chain tension

• Install camshaft locking tools for FA20 (specialty) to prevent cam movement.
• Remove the chain tensioner using a 10mm socket (or applicable size) and keep track of bolt locations.
• A tensioner is a spring/oil-fed part that keeps the chain tight.

Step 10: Remove timing chain and guides

• Remove chain guides using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Slip the chain off the sprockets carefully, keeping the cam sprockets from moving.
• Inspect sprocket teeth and guide wear surfaces before reassembly.

Step 11: Install new guides, chain, and tensioner

• Install new guides using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket, then Torque to Subaru spec (Nm/ft-lbs) for each fastener.
• Align the colored links on the new chain to the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets.
• Install the new tensioner using a 10mm socket, then Torque to Subaru spec (Nm/ft-lbs).
• Release the tensioner pin (if equipped) only after all marks are verified.

Step 12: Verify timing before sealing

• Rotate the engine clockwise by hand two full turns using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
• Re-check that timing marks return to the correct positions.
• If marks don’t match, stop and reset.

Step 13: Replace front crank seal and reseal timing cover

• Remove the old crank seal carefully (use a seal puller (specialty) if available) and install the new seal squarely.
• Apply a continuous bead of timing cover RTV sealant using an RTV sealant applicator.
• Install the timing cover and hand-start all bolts, then tighten evenly using a torque wrench 10-200 Nm range and metric socket set.
• Torque to Subaru spec (Nm/ft-lbs) in an even pattern.

Step 14: Reinstall crank pulley and accessories

• Install the crank pulley and crank bolt using a 22mm socket and crank pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Torque to Subaru spec (Nm/ft-lbs) for the crank bolt.
• Reinstall the accessory belt using a 14mm socket on the tensioner.
• Reinstall fans using a 10mm socket and reconnect electrical connectors.

Step 15: Refill fluids and reassemble

• Install a new oil filter by hand, then refill oil using a funnel.
• Refill coolant using a funnel and bleed air per Subaru procedure (heater set to HOT, top off as level drops).
• Reinstall the splash shield using a trim/panel clip tool and 10mm socket.
• Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; confirm the oil pressure light turns off normally.
• Check for oil leaks around the timing cover and crank seal area with a flashlight.
• Watch coolant level as the engine warms up; top off after the thermostat opens.
• Test drive gently, then re-check for leaks and re-check oil and coolant levels.
• If a check-engine light appears, scan codes with an OBD2 scan tool and address before driving hard.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $2,000-$4,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $1,650-$3,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-14 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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