How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2009-2013 Toyota Highlander 2.7L (Trim: Base | Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)
Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt, with tools, parts, safety tips, and timing setup for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
How to Replace the Timing Chain on a 2009-2013 Toyota Highlander 2.7L (Trim: Base | Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)
Step-by-step guide explaining why there is no timing belt, with tools, parts, safety tips, and timing setup for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Highlander - Timing Chain Service Guidance
Your Highlander’s 2.7L inline-4 engine does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and usually is not replaced as routine maintenance.
If you are hearing chain rattle, have cam/crank timing codes, poor running, or oil-related chain tensioner issues, this becomes an advanced timing chain repair that requires precise engine timing setup.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not attempt to “replace the timing belt” on your Highlander because there is no timing belt to replace.
- ⚠️ Timing chain work can cause severe engine damage if the camshaft or crankshaft timing is set incorrectly.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator, or engine wiring.
- ⚠️ Support the engine correctly before removing any engine mount parts.
- ⚠️ Never rotate the crankshaft backward unless the service procedure specifically allows it.
- ⚠️ Work only on a cool engine to avoid burns from coolant, oil, and exhaust parts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 1/2-inch breaker bar
- 1/2-inch torque wrench
- 3/8-inch torque wrench
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Gasket scraper plastic
- Drain pan 10-quart minimum
- Coolant funnel kit
- Feeler gauge set
- Paint marker
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guide set - Qty: 1
- Timing cover sealant RTV - Qty: 1
- Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
- Engine oil 0W-20 synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
- Toyota-compatible long-life coolant - Qty: 1 gallon
- Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Highlander on level ground and let the engine cool completely.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- A timing chain is a metal chain inside the engine that keeps the crankshaft and camshafts moving together at the correct time.
- An engine support bar holds the engine from above when a mount must be removed.
- If your Highlander only needs normal maintenance, do not replace the timing chain unless there is a confirmed fault.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm This Is Not a Timing Belt Job
- Open the hood and locate the front of the engine on the passenger side.
- Use a flashlight if needed to inspect the engine front cover area.
- Your Highlander has a sealed metal timing cover, not an external timing belt cover.
- No belt service interval applies.
Step 2: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
- Place a drain pan 10-quart minimum under the engine oil drain plug.
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil.
- Reinstall the oil drain plug and Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
- Move the drain pan 10-quart minimum under the radiator drain area and drain coolant carefully.
- Use nitrile gloves and safety glasses because coolant is toxic and slippery.
Step 3: Remove Engine Covers and Accessory Belt
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any plastic engine cover fasteners.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to release splash shield clips under the passenger side.
- Use a 19mm socket on the belt tensioner to relieve belt tension.
- Slide the accessory drive belt off the pulleys and remove it.
- Take a belt routing photo first.
Step 4: Support the Engine
- Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the upper body structure.
- Attach the support chain to the engine lift point.
- Apply light upward tension only. Do not lift the vehicle by the engine.
- A floor jack rated 3-ton minimum with a wood block may be used under the engine oil pan only as light backup support.
Step 5: Remove Passenger-Side Engine Mount Components
- Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the passenger-side mount bracket bolts as needed for access.
- Keep bolts organized by location because lengths can vary.
- During reassembly, tighten mount fasteners to the matching Toyota specification for their position. If exact bolt location is uncertain, stop and verify before tightening.
Step 6: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Install the crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty) to hold the pulley still.
- Use a 22mm socket with a 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller (specialty) to remove the pulley without prying on it.
- Do not pry against the timing cover because it can crack or bend.
Step 7: Remove Valve Cover and Timing Cover
- Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil fasteners and valve cover bolts.
- Lift the valve cover off carefully and remove the old gasket.
- Use a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to remove timing cover bolts.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to separate sealant areas gently.
- Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.
Step 8: Set Engine to Top Dead Center
- Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks to their service positions.
- Use a paint marker to mark the old chain and sprockets before removal.
- Top Dead Center means piston number 1 is at the top of its compression stroke.
- Correct timing is critical.
Step 9: Remove Timing Chain Tensioner and Guides
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
- Use a 12mm socket to remove guide bolts as equipped.
- Remove the timing chain guides and keep note of their positions.
- Remove the timing chain from the sprockets without rotating the camshafts or crankshaft.
Step 10: Install New Timing Chain and Guides
- Match the colored timing chain links to the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks.
- Install the new timing chain guides using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket as applicable.
- Install the new timing chain tensioner.
- Use a 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten small guide and tensioner bolts to Toyota specification for each bolt size.
- Do not guess torque on small aluminum-thread bolts because stripped threads are expensive to repair.
Step 11: Verify Timing Before Closing Engine
- Use a 22mm socket to rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand two full turns.
- Stop immediately if the engine locks or feels like metal contact.
- Recheck that all timing marks return to the correct alignment.
- Use a feeler gauge set only if checking related clearances during deeper inspection.
- Hand-rotate before starting.
Step 12: Reseal Timing Cover and Reinstall Valve Cover
- Use a plastic gasket scraper and shop towels to clean old sealant from the timing cover and engine block.
- Apply timing cover sealant RTV in the factory bead pattern.
- Install the timing cover and start all bolts by hand.
- Use a 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten timing cover bolts in stages to Toyota specification by bolt size.
- Install the new valve cover gasket and reinstall the valve cover with a 10mm socket.
Step 13: Reinstall Crankshaft Pulley and Engine Mount
- Install the crankshaft pulley by hand, making sure it seats straight.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty) and 22mm socket to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to Toyota specification.
- Reinstall engine mount brackets using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket.
- Use a 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten mount fasteners to Toyota specification for their exact bolt position.
Step 14: Reinstall Belt, Fluids, and Battery Cable
- Use a 19mm socket to move the belt tensioner and install the accessory drive belt.
- Install a new engine oil filter and refill with engine oil 0W-20 synthetic.
- Refill the cooling system with Toyota-compatible long-life coolant using a coolant funnel kit.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Torque battery terminal nut to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for rattling, knocking, or chain slap.
- Check for oil leaks around the timing cover, valve cover, oil filter, and drain plug.
- Check for coolant leaks and allow trapped air to bleed from the cooling system.
- Watch the temperature gauge and shut the engine off if it begins to overheat.
- After the first full heat cycle, recheck oil level and coolant level.
- If the check engine light comes on, scan for camshaft/crankshaft correlation codes before driving far.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,500-$2,800 parts + labor
DIY Cost: $300-$750 parts only
You Save: $1,000-$2,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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