🔧 MDX - Timing Belt Replacement

Your MDX uses a timing belt to keep the camshafts and crankshaft perfectly synchronized. Replacing it on time prevents severe engine damage (this is an interference engine, meaning a failed belt can bend valves).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the right-side engine mount.
• ⚠️ Work only on a cold engine; coolant will be drained.
• ⚠️ Never rotate the engine with the timing belt removed.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the hydraulic tensioner and pulleys.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• 1/2" torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Flat trim clip tool
• Phillips screwdriver
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Funnel
• Paint marker
• Floor jack with wood block
• Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Serpentine belt tool 14mm
• Shop rags

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing belt - Qty: 1
• Timing belt tensioner (hydraulic) - Qty: 1
• Timing belt idler pulley - Qty: 1
• Timing belt tensioner pulley - Qty: 1
• Water pump - Qty: 1
• Water pump gasket/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (Acura Type 2 compatible) - Qty: 2 gallons
• Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Plan to replace the water pump while you’re in there. Saves labor later.
• A “crankshaft pulley holding tool” locks the pulley so you can loosen/tighten the crank bolt safely.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front-right and remove the wheel/splash shield

• Use a floor jack and jack stands to safely support the front of the vehicle.
• Remove the right front wheel using a 19mm socket.
• Remove the right inner fender liner/splash shield fasteners using a trim clip tool and 10mm socket.

Step 2: Drain coolant

• Place a drain pan under the radiator drain.
• Open the radiator drain and remove the radiator cap to drain faster.

Step 3: Remove the accessory (serpentine) belt

• Use a serpentine belt tool 14mm to rotate the belt tensioner and slip the belt off.
• If reusing the belt (not recommended), mark its rotation direction with a paint marker.

Step 4: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount

• Place a floor jack with a wood block under the engine oil pan and gently take the engine’s weight.
• Remove the right-side engine mount fasteners using 14mm and 17mm sockets.
• Only lift enough to relieve mount tension.

Step 5: Remove the timing belt covers

• Remove the upper and lower timing covers using a 10mm socket.
• Keep bolts organized by cover location/length.

Step 6: Set cylinder #1 to TDC (Top Dead Center)

• Use a 19mm socket on the crankshaft bolt and rotate the engine clockwise.
• Align the crankshaft timing mark and both camshaft timing marks to their reference marks.
• Use a paint marker to add your own alignment marks on the belt and sprockets.

Step 7: Remove the crankshaft pulley

• Install the crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty) to prevent the pulley from turning.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to loosen and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
• Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crank nose.

Step 8: Remove the old timing belt

• Remove the timing belt tensioner mounting bolts using a 12mm socket.
• Remove the tensioner and then slide the belt off the sprockets.
• Do not rotate the camshafts or crankshaft with the belt off.

Step 9: Replace water pump and pulleys (recommended)

• Remove the water pump bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the water pump and gasket/O-ring, then clean the sealing surface with shop rags.
• Install the new water pump with the new gasket/O-ring.
• Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs)
• Replace the idler and tensioner pulleys using a 14mm socket.
• Torque pulley bolts to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Install the new tensioner

• Install the new hydraulic tensioner using a 12mm socket.
• Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs)
• If the tensioner has a retaining pin, leave it installed for now.

Step 11: Install the new timing belt and set tension

• Route the belt in this order: crank sprocket → front bank cam → rear bank cam → water pump → tensioner pulley.
• Keep the belt tight on the non-tensioned side while routing.
• Double-check all timing marks line up perfectly.
• Pull the tensioner pin to apply belt tension.

Step 12: Verify timing by rotating the engine

• Use a 19mm socket to rotate the engine clockwise by hand two full revolutions.
• Re-check cam and crank timing marks after rotation.
• If any mark is off, remove the belt and correct it before proceeding.

Step 13: Reinstall timing covers, mount, belt, and wheel

• Reinstall timing covers using a 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the crankshaft pulley and bolt.
• Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty) and torque the crank bolt: 245 Nm (181 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall the right engine mount fasteners using 14mm and 17mm sockets.
• Torque mount-to-body bolts to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount bracket bolts to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall the accessory belt using the serpentine belt tool 14mm.
• Reinstall splash shield fasteners using a trim clip tool and 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket and torque: 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Refill and bleed coolant

• Close the radiator drain.
• Refill with Acura Type 2 compatible coolant using a funnel.
• Start the engine and set the heater to HOT; let it reach operating temperature.
• Top off coolant as air purges, then reinstall the radiator cap.

---

✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and listen for abnormal slapping/whining noises from the belt area.
• Check for coolant leaks around the water pump area.
• Road test, then recheck coolant level after the engine cools.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$1,900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $700-$1,650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.