🔧 RDX - Timing Belt Replacement

Your RDX uses a timing belt to keep the camshafts and crankshaft perfectly synchronized. Replacing it on time prevents belt failure, which can cause major engine damage because this V6 is an interference engine.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours

Assumption: Stock J35 V6 with factory accessory drive layout.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
• 🛑 Support the engine before removing the right-side engine mount.
• 🛑 Keep fingers clear when releasing the timing belt tensioner.
• 🛑 Do not rotate cams/crank with the belt removed (valve-to-piston risk).
• 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable routing.
• 🛑 Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm, 5-30 Nm range)
• Socket set (8mm-22mm)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive, 24" minimum)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Serpentine belt tool (long handle)
• Flat trim clip remover
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Drain pan (2-gallon minimum)
• Funnel
• Harmonic balancer holder tool (specialty)
• Honda/Acura crank pulley puller (specialty)
• Engine support bar or support jack with wood block
• Paint marker
• Shop light
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing belt - Qty: 1
• Timing belt tensioner (hydraulic) - Qty: 1
• Timing belt idler pulley - Qty: 1
• Timing belt tensioner pulley - Qty: 1
• Water pump with gasket/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (Honda/Acura Type 2 premix) - Qty: 2 gallons
• Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft pulley bolt - Qty: 1
• Timing cover grommets/clips (as needed) - Qty: 1
• Camshaft seals (optional, if leaking) - Qty: 2
• Crankshaft front seal (optional, if leaking) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• 🧰 Use a floor jack and jack stands to support the front safely.
• 🧰 Remove the right-front wheel and the right inner fender splash shield for access.
• 🧰 Place a drain pan under the radiator area if you’re replacing the water pump (recommended).
• 🧰 Uncommon tool note: a harmonic balancer holder tool holds the crank pulley still while you loosen/tighten the crank bolt.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect power and set up access

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it aside.
• Use a floor jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks to safely support the vehicle.
• Use a 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts, then remove the right-front wheel.
• Use a trim clip remover and Phillips screwdriver #2 to remove the right inner fender splash shield.

Step 2: Drain coolant (recommended with water pump)

• Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
• Open the radiator cap to vent (only when cool).
• Drain coolant, then close the drain.

Step 3: Remove the accessory (serpentine) belt

• Use a serpentine belt tool to rotate the belt tensioner and slip the belt off.
• Tip: Take a photo of belt routing.

Step 4: Support the engine

• Position an engine support bar or a floor jack under the oil pan with a wood block between the jack and pan.
• Apply just enough support to hold the engine level (do not lift the vehicle).

Step 5: Remove the right engine mount and brackets

• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the right engine mount fasteners and mount bracket as needed for timing cover clearance.
• Reinstall torque (during reassembly): Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for typical mount through-bolts and Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs) for typical mount bracket bolts.
• Tip: Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 6: Remove the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer)

• Use the harmonic balancer holder tool (specialty) to hold the crank pulley.
• Use a 22mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen and remove the crank pulley bolt.
• Use the Honda/Acura crank pulley puller (specialty) if the pulley is stuck; remove the pulley.
• Reinstall torque (during reassembly): Torque to 245 Nm (181 ft-lbs) for the crank pulley bolt (use a new bolt if specified with your parts kit).

Step 7: Remove timing belt covers

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the upper and lower timing cover bolts.
• Remove the covers and set them aside.

Step 8: Set cylinder #1 to TDC (timing marks aligned)

• Use a 19mm socket on the crankshaft (if the pulley is off, use the crank bolt temporarily threaded in) and rotate the engine clockwise only.
• Align the crankshaft timing mark with the pointer on the oil pump housing, and verify both camshaft timing marks line up with their reference marks.
• Use a paint marker to add clear reference marks on the belt and sprockets.
• Tip: Never rotate counterclockwise to “back up.”

Step 9: Remove the timing belt tensioner and old belt

• Use a 12mm socket to remove the hydraulic tensioner mounting bolts.
• Remove the tensioner, then slip the timing belt off the sprockets.
• Reinstall torque (during reassembly): Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the tensioner mounting bolts.

Step 10: Replace idler pulleys

• Use a 14mm socket to remove the idler and tensioner pulleys.
• Install the new pulleys and tighten to: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) for typical idler pulley bolts.

Step 11: Replace the water pump

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the water pump bolts.
• Remove the pump and gasket/O-ring, then clean the mating surface with shop rags (no gouging).
• Install the new water pump with the new gasket/O-ring.
• Tighten bolts evenly: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install the new timing belt (keep timing marks aligned)

• Double-check the crank and both cam timing marks are still perfectly aligned.
• Route the new belt in this order (keep the belt tight on the non-tensioned side): crank sprocket → rear cam sprocket → front cam sprocket → down to the water pump → around the tensioner pulley.
• If your belt has directional arrows, install so arrows point in the engine’s clockwise rotation direction.

Step 13: Install and activate the hydraulic tensioner

• Install the new hydraulic tensioner using a 12mm socket.
• If the tensioner is shipped “pinned,” leave the pin installed until the belt is fully routed.
• Pull the tensioner pin to apply tension.
• Tensioner bolts: Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Verify timing by hand-rotating the engine

• Thread the crank bolt in (if removed) and use a 19mm socket to rotate the engine clockwise two full turns.
• Re-check that the crank and both cam timing marks return exactly to alignment.
• If any mark is off, remove the belt and correct it before proceeding.

Step 15: Reassemble timing covers, crank pulley, and engine mount

• Install timing covers using a 10mm socket.
• Install the crank pulley, then install the crank bolt.
• Use the harmonic balancer holder tool (specialty) and a torque wrench: Torque to 245 Nm (181 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the right engine mount/brackets using 14mm socket and 17mm socket, then torque: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) and Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs) (as applicable by fastener location).

Step 16: Reinstall the serpentine belt, splash shield, and wheel

• Install the new serpentine belt using the serpentine belt tool.
• Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip remover and Phillips screwdriver #2.
• Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket, then torque lug nuts: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Refill and bleed coolant

• Use a funnel to refill with Honda/Acura Type 2 premix coolant.
• Start the engine and let it reach operating temperature with the heater set to hot.
• Top off as the level drops, then install the cap and fill the reservoir to the max line.
• Check for leaks around the water pump and timing cover area.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and listen for abnormal ticking/whining (a loud whine can indicate belt misrouting).
• 🧪 Verify no coolant leaks after a 10-15 minute idle and again after a short drive.
• 🧪 Recheck coolant level the next day when cold and top off if needed.
• 🧪 If the battery was disconnected, reset clock and auto-up window initialization if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹12,000-₹28,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹13,000-₹27,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 5-8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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