🔧 Palisade - Thermostat Replacement

Your Palisade’s thermostat controls engine temperature by opening to let coolant flow to the radiator. If it sticks closed you’ll overheat; if it sticks open you may get slow warm-up and poor heater performance.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never open the coolant reservoir/cap when hot; let the engine cool completely.
• 🧤 Coolant is toxic and slippery—wear gloves and clean spills immediately.
• 🛠️ Keep hands clear of the radiator fans; they can turn on by themselves.
• 🔋 Recommended: disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the fan/serpentine belt area.
• ♻️ Catch all coolant in a drain pan and dispose of it properly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench
• 6" extension
• Pliers
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Plastic scraper
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
• Thermostat seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Hyundai-compatible long-life coolant (premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Replacement hose clamps - Qty: 2 If clamps are weak/rusted

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool fully (cold upper radiator hose is a good sign).
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front safely using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove any lower splash shield/undercover panels as needed using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Drain enough coolant to get below the thermostat level

• Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
• Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to relieve any remaining pressure.
• Open the drain (or remove the lower hose if your setup doesn’t have an easy drain) using pliers or hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• Drain until the flow slows and the level is below the thermostat housing area.

Step 2: Access the thermostat housing/water outlet

• Remove the top engine cover if equipped by pulling upward (it’s held by grommets).
• Work from the front of the engine bay and locate the water outlet/thermostat area (follow the upper radiator hose to where it meets the engine).
• Move any interfering ducting/brackets out of the way using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Take a quick photo before disconnecting hoses.

Step 3: Remove coolant hoses from the thermostat housing

• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
• Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off. Use a flat-blade screwdriver carefully only if needed.
• Catch leftover coolant with the drain pan and wipe the area with shop towels.

Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing / water outlet

• Remove the housing bolts using a 10mm socket (some brackets may use 12mm socket).
• Lift the housing off carefully; more coolant may spill—keep the drain pan underneath.
• Remove the old thermostat and seal/O-ring.

Step 5: Clean the sealing surfaces

• Use a plastic scraper and shop towels to clean the mating surfaces.
• Do not gouge the aluminum surface. No sandpaper.

Step 6: Install the new thermostat and seal

• Install the new seal/O-ring in the correct groove (do not pinch it).
• Set the new thermostat in the same orientation as the old one.
• Reinstall the housing and start all bolts by hand first.
• Tighten evenly, then torque using a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reconnect hoses and reinstall removed parts

• Push hoses fully onto their fittings, then reposition clamps using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• Reinstall any brackets/ducting using a 10mm socket / 12mm socket.
• Reinstall the splash shield/undercover using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.

Step 8: Refill and bleed the cooling system

• Lower the vehicle from the jack stands.
• Refill with Hyundai-compatible long-life coolant (premix) using a funnel at the reservoir.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and set the heater to HOT and fan to medium.
• Let it idle until the engine warms up and the heater blows hot; watch the temp gauge.
• Shut it off, let it cool, then top off the coolant level again.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks around the thermostat housing and hose connections with the engine running.
• Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck coolant level after a full cool-down.
• If you get overheating, no heat, or gurgling sounds, there is likely trapped air—re-bleed and recheck level.
• Confirm the radiator fans cycle normally while idling warm.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.