How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2018 Nissan Murano (Cooling System Guide)
Step-by-step thermostat housing removal, required tools/parts, torque specs, and coolant refill/bleed tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2018 Nissan Murano (Cooling System Guide)
Step-by-step thermostat housing removal, required tools/parts, torque specs, and coolant refill/bleed tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Murano - Thermostat Replacement
Your Murano’s thermostat controls coolant flow to keep engine temperature stable. Replacing it usually means draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing, installing a new thermostat + seal, then refilling and bleeding air from the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap when hot; coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; drain into a sealed pan and dispose properly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/tools clear of the radiator fans; they can turn on unexpectedly.
- Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key away from the vehicle while working.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Shop rags
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set
- 10mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Plastic trim tool
- Inch-pound torque wrench
- Funnel
- Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Nissan Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant, blue, pre-mix 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally 2+ hours).
- Set the cabin HVAC to HOT before you start the bleeding process later (this helps coolant flow through the heater core).
- If you raise the front, lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands at proper lift points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve residual pressure safely
- Verify the engine is cool to the touch.
- Place a shop rag over the radiator cap.
- Slowly loosen the cap to the first stop to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully.
Step 2: Drain coolant to below thermostat level
- Position a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the radiator drain cock using a flathead screwdriver if needed (some are hand-turn).
- Drain until the radiator level is clearly down (you don’t always need to drain it completely).
- Close the drain cock once done (snug only; do not overtighten).
Step 3: Remove the engine cover and intake ducting (as needed for access)
- Remove the plastic engine cover by pulling upward carefully; use a plastic trim tool if it’s stuck.
- Loosen intake duct clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Remove any 10mm bolts holding the duct/brackets using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Move the ducting aside to open up access to the thermostat housing area.
Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing
- Place shop rags under the housing area to catch spills.
- Release the radiator hose clamp at the housing using hose clamp pliers, then slide the clamp back on the hose.
- Carefully twist and pull the hose off the housing (use a plastic trim tool to gently break the seal if needed; don’t gouge the sealing surface).
- Remove the thermostat housing bolts using a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and extension.
- Separate the housing and let remaining coolant drain into the drain pan.
Step 5: Replace the thermostat and seal
- Note the thermostat’s orientation before removal (take a quick photo).
- Remove the old thermostat and old seal/O-ring by hand.
- Clean the mating surfaces using a shop rag (no heavy scraping).
- Install the new thermostat in the same orientation.
- Install the new seal/O-ring fully seated and not twisted. Pinched seals cause leaks.
Step 6: Reinstall housing and hose
- Reinstall the thermostat housing and start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten housing bolts evenly using a 10mm socket.
- Final tighten using an inch-pound torque wrench: Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs).
- Reinstall the hose and position the clamp back in its original spot using hose clamp pliers.
Step 7: Reinstall intake ducting and cover
- Reinstall any intake duct bolts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Tighten intake clamps using a flathead screwdriver (snug; don’t strip them).
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it down until seated.
Step 8: Refill and bleed air from the cooling system
- Fill the radiator slowly with Nissan blue pre-mix coolant using a funnel.
- Install a spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) on the radiator neck; this is a funnel that seals to the radiator so you can run the engine without spilling while air burps out.
- Fill the funnel to the “full” level so the radiator stays topped off.
- Start the engine and let it idle. Set HVAC to HOT and fan on low.
- As the engine warms, watch for air bubbles in the funnel. Add coolant as the level drops.
- When the thermostat opens, you should feel the upper radiator hose get hot and you’ll usually see a bigger level drop in the funnel.
- Continue until bubbles stop and the heater blows consistently hot.
- Shut the engine off, let it cool, then remove the funnel and install the radiator cap.
- Fill the coolant reservoir to the “MAX” line using a funnel.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check the thermostat housing and hose connection for leaks with a flashlight (use safety glasses).
- Road test 10–15 minutes, watching the temperature gauge for normal operation.
- After a full cool-down, recheck reservoir level and top off as needed.
- If you get gurgling sounds/no heat/temperature swings, it likely still has air—repeat the bleed step.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$590 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















