How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (Engine: V6 4.3L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and coolant bleed tips
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (Engine: V6 4.3L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and coolant bleed tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
The thermostat on your Silverado controls coolant flow so the engine reaches and holds normal operating temperature. If it sticks open, the engine runs too cool; if it sticks closed, it can overheat fast. This job usually means draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing, and swapping the thermostat and seal.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work only on a completely cool engine. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Relieve pressure slowly by loosening the coolant surge tank cap only when the engine is cold.
- Use a drain pan and keep coolant off the ground. Coolant is toxic to people and pets.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
- Coolant level matters more than speed.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 6-inch extension
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Drain pan
- Torque wrench
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system.
- Place a drain pan under the front of the truck.
- If your coolant is dirty or old, plan on refilling with a proper 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain enough coolant to lower the level
- Use a drain pan under the radiator drain or lower hose area.
- Open the coolant surge tank cap slowly when the engine is cold.
- Drain enough coolant so the level drops below the thermostat housing.
- Save clean coolant if it is still fresh.
Step 2: Remove intake ducting for access
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake duct clamps if equipped.
- Lift out any air duct or intake tube that blocks access to the thermostat housing.
- Set the parts aside in order so they go back the same way.
Step 3: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Carefully break the housing loose and pull it away from the engine.
- Expect a small amount of coolant to spill.
- Remove the old thermostat and seal.
Step 4: Clean the sealing surface
- Use a shop towel to clean the engine sealing surface.
- Do not scratch the aluminum housing or engine surface.
- Make sure the old gasket material is completely removed.
Step 5: Install the new thermostat
- Install the new thermostat and new seal in the same orientation as the old one.
- Use a shop towel to keep the seal clean as you place it.
- Set the housing back in place by hand first.
Step 6: Tighten the housing
- Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the housing bolts evenly.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Do not overtighten. The housing can crack or leak.
Step 7: Reinstall removed intake parts
- Put the intake ducting back in place.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to tighten the clamps securely.
- Make sure all hoses and clips are fully seated.
Step 8: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with the correct coolant mix.
- Fill the surge tank to the proper mark.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater on hot.
- Watch the coolant level and top off as air escapes.
Step 9: Check for leaks and verify operation
- Use a flashlight to inspect the thermostat housing and hoses for leaks.
- Bring the engine up to operating temperature.
- Confirm the heater blows warm air and the temperature gauge stays normal.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck coolant level after the engine cools down completely.
- Top off coolant if the level dropped after bleeding.
- Inspect again for leaks after your first test drive.
- If the temperature warning light comes on, shut the engine off immediately and recheck the repair.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$380 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















