How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2018-2021 Kia Stinger (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cooling system bleeding
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2018-2021 Kia Stinger (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cooling system bleeding for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
Your Stinger’s thermostat controls engine temperature by regulating coolant flow. If it’s stuck open, the engine runs too cool; if it’s stuck closed, it can overheat fast. This job requires coolant drainage, removal of the thermostat housing, and refilling/bleeding the cooling system carefully.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work only on a completely cold engine. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Use a drain pan and dispose of coolant properly. Keep coolant away from pets and children.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you will work near wiring connectors or the cooling fan area.
- Do not open the coolant system hot. Pressure can release boiling coolant.
- Bleed air from the cooling system after refill. Air pockets can cause overheating.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Ratchet
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- Extensions
- Torque wrench
- Pliers
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Coolant drain pan
- Funnel
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
- Jack and jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing gasket - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: 1 service fill
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely before starting.
- Raise the front of the vehicle only if needed for access, and support it with jack stands.
- Have the new thermostat and gasket ready before draining coolant.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or pliers, depending on the drain fitting, to open the radiator drain and remove enough coolant to drop the level below the thermostat housing.
- Close the drain once the coolant level is low enough.
Step 2: Remove access components
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any engine cover or intake ducting blocking access to the thermostat housing.
- Move wiring clips or hoses aside carefully without stretching them.
Step 3: Disconnect the thermostat housing area
- Use pliers to release the hose clamp on the thermostat hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the housing.
- Catch any remaining coolant with a rag or drain pan.
Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use a 10mm socket with an extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Lift the housing off carefully.
- Remove the old thermostat and gasket.
- Keep track of bolt locations.
Step 5: Install the new thermostat
- Place the new thermostat in the same orientation as the old one.
- Install the new housing gasket.
- Set the housing in place and start the bolts by hand.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the housing bolts to 10 Nm (7.4 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Reconnect hoses and removed parts
- Push the coolant hose back onto the housing.
- Use pliers to reinstall the hose clamp in the correct position.
- Reinstall any intake parts or covers using the 10mm socket.
Step 7: Refill the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with the correct coolant.
- Fill slowly to reduce trapped air.
- Leave the reservoir cap off for initial bleeding if needed.
Step 8: Bleed air from the system
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to hot.
- Watch the coolant level and top off as air escapes.
- Install the reservoir cap after the level stabilizes.
- Bring the engine up to operating temperature and check for leaks.
✅ After Repair
- Confirm the heater blows hot air and the temperature gauge stays steady.
- Check the thermostat housing and hose connections for leaks after the test drive.
- Recheck coolant level when the engine is fully cool and top off if needed.
- Watch for warning lights or overheating on the first drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $305-$530 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















