How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2017-2019 Honda Ridgeline (Coolant Drain & Bleed) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, thermostat housing torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2017-2019 Honda Ridgeline (Coolant Drain & Bleed) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, thermostat housing torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Ridgeline - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls coolant flow to keep your engine at the correct temperature. If it’s stuck open you may get slow warm-up/weak heat; if it’s stuck closed you can overheat. On your Ridgeline, the thermostat sits in a housing on the engine where the lower radiator hose connects.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Never remove the radiator cap when hot; release pressure slowly when cool.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands if you lift the truck; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off paint and away from pets/kids; it’s toxic.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not strictly required, but it’s safer if you’ll be working near the radiator fan (it can turn on automatically).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel (spill-proof style)
- Trim clip remover
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- Torque wrench (5-60 Nm range)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Shop rags
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat O-ring / seal - Qty: 1
- Honda-compatible coolant (Type 2, premixed) - Qty: 2 gallons
- Radiator drain plug sealing washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Ridgeline on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally overnight).
- Set the HVAC temperature to HOT so coolant can circulate through the heater core during bleeding.
- If you choose to disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and tuck it aside.
- Hose clamp pliers are pliers that lock a spring clamp open.
- A torque wrench helps tighten bolts to an exact spec.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve pressure and access the cooling system
- Open the hood and remove the radiator cap only when fully cool.
- Remove the engine cover (if equipped) by lifting it up firmly; use a flashlight to confirm all the rubber grommets released.
Step 2: Raise the front (optional but helps)
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
- Set the truck onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and keep wheel chocks in place.
Step 3: Drain the coolant from the radiator
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain.
- Open the drain plug carefully (use a flat-blade screwdriver if your drain plug design uses a slotted head).
- Let coolant drain fully. Replace the drain plug sealing washer if applicable, then close the drain plug snugly.
Step 4: Remove the intake ducting for working room
- Loosen the intake hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Remove any clips/fasteners with a trim clip remover.
- Lift the intake duct/air snorkel out and set it aside.
Step 5: Locate the thermostat housing
- Follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the engine. The hose connects to the thermostat housing.
- Put shop rags under the housing area to catch leftover coolant.
Step 6: Remove the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off the housing. Use a pick tool carefully if it’s stuck (don’t gouge the plastic/metal neck).
Step 7: Remove the thermostat housing
- Remove the thermostat housing bolts using a 10mm socket (some fasteners may be 12mm socket depending on bracket/cover in the way).
- Pull the housing straight off. Expect some coolant to spill into the drain pan and rags.
- Remove the old thermostat and the old O-ring seal.
Step 8: Install the new thermostat and seal
- Clean the mating surfaces with shop rags (no gouging/scraping).
- Install the new thermostat O-ring / seal in the groove.
- Install the new thermostat in the same orientation as the old one (if it has a small “jiggle valve,” position it at the top).
- Reinstall the housing and hand-start the bolts to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten housing bolts evenly using a torque wrench (5-60 Nm range): Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect the lower radiator hose
- Push the hose fully onto the housing neck.
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp back into its original position.
Step 10: Reinstall the intake ducting
- Reinstall the intake duct and any snorkels.
- Tighten the clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall any clips/fasteners using a trim clip remover as needed.
Step 11: Refill coolant and bleed air
- Make sure the radiator drain is closed.
- Slowly fill the radiator using a funnel (spill-proof style) with Honda-compatible coolant (Type 2, premixed) until full.
- Fill the overflow reservoir to the MAX line.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off. Watch the coolant level and top off as it drops.
- Turn the heater to HOT and the fan to low/medium; verify you get steady heat.
- When the radiator fans cycle on and off and you stop seeing bubbles, install the radiator cap.
- Keep fingers clear of the cooling fan.
✅ After Repair
- Test drive 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge for normal operation.
- Park, let it cool, then recheck the overflow reservoir and top off to MAX if needed.
- Inspect around the thermostat housing and the lower radiator hose for any leaks.
- If you disconnected the battery, reconnect it using a 10mm socket and confirm the clock/audio presets if needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$590 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Coolant Thermostat replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Honda Ridgeline | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2018 Honda Ridgeline | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2017 Honda Ridgeline | - | V6 3.5L | - |


















