How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2016 Toyota Tundra 5.7L V8
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, coolant refill, and safety tips
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2016 Toyota Tundra 5.7L V8
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, coolant refill, and safety tips
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
This job involves draining some coolant, removing access components, and replacing the thermostat in the coolant outlet housing. A fresh thermostat helps the engine warm up correctly and can fix slow warm-up, overheating, or temperature swings.
Assumption: Procedure below is for the 5.7L V8 with factory cooling layout.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
- Never remove the radiator cap on a hot engine.
- Coolant is toxic; keep it away from pets and children.
- Use jack stands if you raise the truck; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you want extra safety around the fan area.
- Be careful around the electric fan if the engine is running for final checks.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- Ratchet
- Short extension
- Torque wrench
- Drain pan
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Pliers
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat gasket - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Radiator drain plug washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system.
- Have a clean drain pan ready before you start.
- Keep the coolant system clean.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Place the drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or your fingers to open the radiator drain cock slowly.
- Drain enough coolant so the level drops below the thermostat housing.
- Close the drain cock when finished.
Step 2: Remove intake access parts
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the air intake tube clamps and any air cleaner fasteners in the way.
- Move the intake duct aside for access to the thermostat housing.
- Take a photo before unplugging anything.
Step 3: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet with short extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Pull the housing straight off and catch any remaining coolant in the drain pan.
- Inspect the housing sealing surface for corrosion or old gasket material.
- Clean the surface gently with a shop towel.
Step 4: Replace the thermostat
- Remove the old thermostat and gasket.
- Install the new thermostat in the same direction as the old one.
- Install the new thermostat gasket.
- Reinstall the housing by hand first so the gasket stays seated.
- Torque the thermostat housing bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 5: Reinstall intake parts
- Put the intake tube and air cleaner parts back in place.
- Use the 10mm socket to tighten the fasteners.
- Make sure all clamps are snug and the intake is fully seated.
Step 6: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill the cooling system with the correct coolant mix.
- Fill slowly to reduce trapped air.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off if equipped with a service-fill opening.
- Watch the coolant level and add more as air pockets burp out.
- When the engine warms up, turn the heater to hot and blower on low.
- Top off the coolant as needed, then install the cap.
Step 7: Check for leaks
- Inspect the thermostat housing and drain cock for leaks.
- Let the engine reach full operating temperature.
- Verify the temperature gauge rises normally and stays steady.
- Check again after a short drive.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck the coolant level after the first heat cycle and again after driving.
- Watch for leaks around the thermostat housing and radiator drain.
- Confirm the heater blows warm air once the engine is at temperature.
- Dispose of old coolant properly.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$380 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















