How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2016 Subaru Outback (Coolant Drain & Bleed Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, thermostat housing torque specs, and coolant bleeding tips
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2016 Subaru Outback (Coolant Drain & Bleed Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, thermostat housing torque specs, and coolant bleeding tips
🔧 Outback - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls engine temperature by opening and closing coolant flow to the radiator. If it’s stuck open you may get slow warm-up and weak heat; if it’s stuck closed you can overheat. On your Outback, the thermostat sits at the engine-side end of the lower radiator hose, behind a small housing.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of radiator fans; they can turn on unexpectedly.
- ⚠️ Support the Outback with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Clean spills immediately; coolant is slippery and toxic to pets.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10 quarts)
- Funnel with long neck
- Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- Ratchet
- 6-inch socket extension
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range)
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
- Subaru-approved coolant (premixed) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Radiator drain plug gasket (if equipped/separate) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (at least a few hours).
- Set the HVAC to HOT (this helps coolant flow through the heater core during bleeding).
- Have a drain pan ready and a place to store used coolant for proper disposal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front and remove the under cover
- Use floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front jack point.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points and lower onto stands.
- Remove the engine under cover/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 10 quarts) under the radiator drain.
- Slowly loosen the radiator cap on the radiator using a shop rag (only if completely cool).
- Open the radiator drain cock (plastic drain) by hand; use a flathead screwdriver only if needed gently.
- Drain until the level is below the lower radiator hose connection (you do not always need to drain completely).
Step 3: Remove the lower radiator hose at the thermostat housing
- Find the lower radiator hose (the big hose at the bottom of the radiator going to the engine).
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose. (Hose clamp pliers are pliers that lock onto spring clamps so you can move them safely.)
- Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off. Use a shop rag to catch remaining coolant.
Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing
- Remove the thermostat housing bolts using a 10mm socket, ratchet, and 6-inch socket extension.
- Pull the housing straight off. If it’s stuck, tap lightly with the handle of a 10mm wrench—don’t pry on sealing surfaces.
- Note the thermostat orientation before removal. Take a quick photo first.
Step 5: Replace the thermostat and seal
- Remove the old thermostat and old seal/O-ring by hand.
- Clean the mating surfaces with a shop rag (no gouging; keep debris out of the opening).
- Install the new thermostat in the same orientation as the old one.
- Install the new seal/O-ring (do not reuse the old one).
Step 6: Reinstall the thermostat housing and hose
- Reinstall the housing bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten evenly using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range): Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the lower radiator hose and move the clamp back into its original position using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
Step 7: Refill coolant and bleed air
- Install a spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) on the radiator fill neck. (A spill-free funnel seals to the radiator so you can run the engine without spilling while air burps out.)
- Slowly add Subaru-approved coolant (premixed) using the funnel until the level stays near the top.
- Start the engine and let it idle. Keep HVAC set to HOT.
- As the engine warms, watch for air bubbles. Add coolant as the level drops.
- When the thermostat opens, the upper hose will get hot and you may see a bigger drop in coolant level—top off again.
- Let the engine idle until bubbles largely stop and heat blows steadily hot.
Step 8: Finish up and reinstall the under cover
- Shut the engine off and let it cool down.
- Remove the funnel, then top off the radiator to the brim using a funnel with long neck.
- Fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL mark using the funnel with long neck.
- Reinstall the radiator cap fully.
- Reinstall the under cover using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check carefully for leaks around the thermostat housing and lower radiator hose.
- Test drive 10–15 minutes, watching the temperature gauge for normal operation.
- After the engine fully cools, recheck the overflow reservoir and top off to the FULL line if needed.
- If you hear sloshing behind the dash or get intermittent heat, there is likely trapped air—repeat the bleeding step.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$650 (parts + labor) (approx. ₹25,000-₹55,000)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only) (approx. ₹3,500-₹12,000)
You Save: $160-$510 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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