How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2015 Ford F-150
Step-by-step thermostat replacement with tools, parts, torque specs, and cooling system bleeding tips for 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2015 Ford F-150
Step-by-step thermostat replacement with tools, parts, torque specs, and cooling system bleeding tips for 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
The thermostat on your F-150 controls engine coolant flow so the engine warms up fast and stays at the right temperature. If it sticks open or closed, you can get overheating, poor heat, or a slow warm-up. This job is mostly a coolant drain, access removal, and careful reassembly with fresh coolant.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Never open the cooling system when the engine is hot. Pressurized coolant can spray out and cause burns.
- Keep hands and tools away from the drive belt, fan, and pulleys.
- Use jack stands if you raise the truck. Do not rely on a jack alone.
- Coolant is toxic. Catch it in a drain pan and keep it off painted surfaces.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Short extension
- Torque wrench
- Hose clamp pliers
- Drain pan
- Funnel
- Pick tool
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat assembly - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing gasket or seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Ford-compatible, prediluted 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely before starting.
- Have a drain pan ready before opening any coolant hose or drain point.
- Tip: Mark hose locations before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area.
- Open the radiator drain or remove the lower hose using hose clamp pliers, depending on access.
- Drain enough coolant so the level drops below the thermostat housing.
- Close the drain once flow stops.
Step 2: Remove intake access parts
- Use the 8mm socket and ratchet to remove the intake tube or air inlet parts blocking access.
- Move the air duct aside for working room.
Step 3: Remove the thermostat housing connections
- Use hose clamp pliers to release the coolant hose clamps.
- Pull the hoses off the thermostat housing carefully.
- Use a pick tool only if a hose is stuck; do not gouge the hose neck.
Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use the 10mm socket, ratchet, and short extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Lift the housing off the engine.
- Remove the old thermostat and seal if they come out separately.
- Tip: Keep bolts in order if lengths differ.
Step 5: Install the new thermostat
- Clean the mating surface with a shop towel.
- Install the new thermostat and gasket or seal in the correct direction.
- Set the housing back in place without pinching the seal.
- Install the bolts by hand first.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 6: Reconnect hoses and intake parts
- Push the coolant hoses back onto the housing fully.
- Use hose clamp pliers to position the clamps in the same place as before.
- Reinstall the intake tube and tighten fasteners with the 8mm socket.
Step 7: Refill the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with Ford-compatible 50/50 coolant.
- Fill slowly to reduce trapped air.
- Leave the cap off for the initial warm-up if needed for bleeding.
Step 8: Bleed air from the system
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to hot.
- Watch the coolant level and top it off as the air purges.
- Once the thermostat opens, the upper hose should get hot and coolant level may drop.
- Install the cap after the level stabilizes.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks at the thermostat housing and hose connections.
- Verify the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
- Confirm the heater blows hot air.
- Recheck coolant level after a full cool-down cycle and top off if needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$520 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















