How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Coolant Drain & Bleed)
Step-by-step thermostat swap with required tools/parts, 18 Nm torque spec, and cooling system air-bleeding tips for 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Coolant Drain & Bleed)
Step-by-step thermostat swap with required tools/parts, 18 Nm torque spec, and cooling system air-bleeding tips for 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Forester - Thermostat Replacement
Your A/C and heater both rely on the engine holding the correct coolant temperature. A stuck thermostat can cause overheating, weak heat, or slow warm-up. On your Forester, the thermostat sits in the coolant inlet/outlet housing at the front/lower area of the engine and is serviced by draining some coolant and swapping the thermostat + seal.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; wait until fully cool.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic and slippery—clean spills immediately and keep away from pets.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers/tools clear of radiator fans; they can turn on unexpectedly.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key away from the vehicle while working near fans.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 10 liters)
- Funnel
- Spill-free funnel kit (specialty)
- Trim clip remover tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Torque wrench (5–60 Nm range)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pliers
- Plastic scraper
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat seal / gasket (O-ring) - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Subaru Super Coolant equivalent, premixed) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (8-12 liters)
- Lower radiator hose clamp - Qty: 1 (only if yours is weak/damaged)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (radiator hoses should feel cool).
- Set your HVAC to full hot later during bleeding (this helps coolant flow through the heater core).
- Place a drain pan under the front of the engine area before loosening any hose.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front safely
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
- Place the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) and add wheel chocks at the rear.
Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (undertray)
- Use a trim clip remover tool and 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove the clips/bolts.
- Set the cover and hardware aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.
Step 3: Drain coolant (partial drain is usually enough)
- Place a drain pan (at least 10 liters) under the radiator drain area.
- Slowly loosen the radiator cap to the first stop to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully once safe.
- Open the radiator drain and let coolant drain into the pan. Use a flathead screwdriver only if your drain style requires it; many are hand-turn.
- Tip: Draining 5–7 liters is often enough.
Step 4: Access the thermostat housing
- Find the lower radiator hose (large hose) and follow it to where it meets the engine at the thermostat housing.
- Use hose clamp pliers to slide the clamp back, then twist and pull the hose off carefully.
- Keep the drain pan directly underneath—more coolant will spill here.
- Tip: Twist the hose first to break the seal.
Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing/cover
- Use a 10mm socket (or 12mm socket if equipped) with a 3/8" ratchet and 3" extension to remove the housing bolts.
- Carefully separate the housing—don’t pry hard on aluminum surfaces.
- Remove the thermostat and the old seal/gasket.
Step 6: Clean the sealing surfaces
- Use a plastic scraper and shop towels to clean the mating surfaces.
- Do not gouge the aluminum. The goal is clean and smooth.
Step 7: Install the new thermostat and seal
- Install the new thermostat seal / gasket (O-ring) onto the thermostat or into the housing groove (whichever matches your part design).
- Install the thermostat in the correct orientation (it must seat fully and evenly).
- Tip: If it doesn’t sit flat, re-check orientation.
Step 8: Reinstall the housing and torque the bolts
- Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (5–60 Nm range) to tighten evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Step 9: Reinstall the lower radiator hose
- Slide the hose fully onto the housing neck.
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp back into its original position (past the bead on the neck).
- If the clamp feels weak or won’t hold position, replace it.
Step 10: Refill coolant
- Close the radiator drain.
- Use a spill-free funnel kit (specialty) and funnel to refill with Subaru Super Coolant equivalent, premixed.
- Fill the radiator, then fill the overflow reservoir to the “FULL” line.
Step 11: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and set HVAC to full hot with the fan on low.
- Let the engine idle while watching the fluid level in the funnel; add coolant as the level drops.
- As it warms up, gently squeeze the upper radiator hose (wear gloves) to help move trapped air.
- When the thermostat opens, you should feel a noticeable change in hose temperature and see flow in the funnel.
- Once bubbles stop and heat is strong inside the cabin, shut the engine off and let it cool, then top off as needed.
Step 12: Reinstall the undertray and lower the vehicle
- Use the 10mm socket and trim clip remover tool to reinstall the undertray.
- Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
✅ After Repair
- With the engine fully warm, check for leaks around the thermostat housing and lower hose connection.
- After a complete cool-down (later the same day or next morning), re-check the radiator level and overflow tank and top off if needed.
- Watch the temperature gauge on your next drive; stop immediately if it climbs abnormally.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (do not pour onto the ground).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹8,000-₹18,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹2,500-₹7,500 (parts only)
You Save: ₹5,500-₹10,500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















