How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013 Subaru Forester (Cooling System Fix)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and torque specs for 2012, 2013
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013 Subaru Forester (Cooling System Fix)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and torque specs for 2012, 2013
🔧 Forester - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls engine temperature by opening and closing to let coolant flow to the radiator. If it sticks closed, your A4 can overheat; if it sticks open, it may run cool and have weak cabin heat. On your Forester, the thermostat sits behind the lower radiator hose at the thermostat housing.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; scalding coolant can spray out.
- ⚠️ Support the Forester on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep it away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
- Use only Subaru-approved coolant type; mixing coolants can cause corrosion and leaks.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel (spill-free coolant funnel preferred)
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat gasket / O-ring - Qty: 1
- Subaru Super Coolant (premixed) - Qty: 2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (ideally sit overnight).
- Set the HVAC to HOT and fan LOW for later bleeding (this helps coolant circulate through the heater core).
- Plan for coolant disposal—most parts stores accept used coolant.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front of the Forester safely
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jack point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give it a firm shake test.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver to remove the bolts and plastic clips.
- Set the hardware aside so it doesn’t get lost.
Step 3: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
- Slowly remove the radiator cap to release any leftover pressure (engine must be cool).
- Open the radiator drain cock using a flathead screwdriver (if it has a slot) and let coolant drain into the pan.
- Tip: Keep the drain pan centered—flow can shift.
Step 4: Access the thermostat at the lower radiator hose
- Locate the lower radiator hose (the larger hose going to the bottom of the radiator).
- Move the hose clamp back using hose clamp pliers (these squeeze spring clamps open so you can slide them).
- Twist the hose to break it loose, then pull it off the thermostat housing.
- Use shop rags to catch remaining coolant drips.
Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing
- Remove the thermostat housing bolts using a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension.
- Carefully separate the housing (a small amount of coolant may spill).
Step 6: Replace the thermostat and gasket
- Note how the old thermostat sits, then remove it by hand.
- Clean the mating surfaces with a shop rag (no gouging or scratching).
- Install the new thermostat in the same orientation and install the new gasket / O-ring.
Step 7: Reinstall the thermostat housing and hose
- Reinstall the housing bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with a torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm): Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the lower radiator hose and slide the clamp back into its original position using hose clamp pliers.
Step 8: Refill coolant
- Close the radiator drain cock (snug only) using a flathead screwdriver if needed.
- Use a funnel (spill-free coolant funnel preferred) to fill the radiator with Subaru Super Coolant (premixed) until full.
- Fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line.
Step 9: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off (or spill-free funnel installed).
- Turn the heater to HOT and fan on low; watch for heat from the vents.
- As the engine warms up, gently squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times (with nitrile gloves) to help push trapped air out.
- When the thermostat opens, the coolant level may drop—top off as needed using the funnel.
- Let the engine reach operating temp and wait for the radiator fan to cycle at least once.
- Shut the engine off, let it cool, then top off the radiator and reservoir again.
- Tip: Gurgling = air; keep bleeding until stable.
Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the shield using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
- Lift slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands, then lower the Forester.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks around the thermostat housing and lower hose with the engine running.
- Drive 10–15 minutes, then recheck the coolant level after the engine fully cools; top off the reservoir to FULL.
- Watch the temp gauge over the next few drives; any overheating means stop and recheck for trapped air or leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$590 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















