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2013 Subaru Forester
2012 - 2013 Subaru Forester
X Flat 4 2.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to replace Subaru Forester Thermostat

How to replace Subaru Forester Thermostat

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013 Subaru Forester (Cooling System Fix)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and torque specs for 2012, 2013

How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013 Subaru Forester (Cooling System Fix)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and torque specs for 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Forester - Thermostat Replacement

The thermostat controls engine temperature by opening and closing to let coolant flow to the radiator. If it sticks closed, your A4 can overheat; if it sticks open, it may run cool and have weak cabin heat. On your Forester, the thermostat sits behind the lower radiator hose at the thermostat housing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; scalding coolant can spray out.
  • ⚠️ Support the Forester on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep it away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
  • Use only Subaru-approved coolant type; mixing coolants can cause corrosion and leaks.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
  • Funnel (spill-free coolant funnel preferred)
  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 6" extension (3/8" drive)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
  • Shop rags

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat gasket / O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Subaru Super Coolant (premixed) - Qty: 2 gallons

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool fully (ideally sit overnight).
  • Set the HVAC to HOT and fan LOW for later bleeding (this helps coolant circulate through the heater core).
  • Plan for coolant disposal—most parts stores accept used coolant.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front of the Forester safely

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jack point.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give it a firm shake test.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Use a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver to remove the bolts and plastic clips.
  • Set the hardware aside so it doesn’t get lost.

Step 3: Drain the coolant

  • Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
  • Slowly remove the radiator cap to release any leftover pressure (engine must be cool).
  • Open the radiator drain cock using a flathead screwdriver (if it has a slot) and let coolant drain into the pan.
  • Tip: Keep the drain pan centered—flow can shift.

Step 4: Access the thermostat at the lower radiator hose

  • Locate the lower radiator hose (the larger hose going to the bottom of the radiator).
  • Move the hose clamp back using hose clamp pliers (these squeeze spring clamps open so you can slide them).
  • Twist the hose to break it loose, then pull it off the thermostat housing.
  • Use shop rags to catch remaining coolant drips.

Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing

  • Remove the thermostat housing bolts using a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension.
  • Carefully separate the housing (a small amount of coolant may spill).

Step 6: Replace the thermostat and gasket

  • Note how the old thermostat sits, then remove it by hand.
  • Clean the mating surfaces with a shop rag (no gouging or scratching).
  • Install the new thermostat in the same orientation and install the new gasket / O-ring.

Step 7: Reinstall the thermostat housing and hose

  • Reinstall the housing bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten with a torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm): Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the lower radiator hose and slide the clamp back into its original position using hose clamp pliers.

Step 8: Refill coolant

  • Close the radiator drain cock (snug only) using a flathead screwdriver if needed.
  • Use a funnel (spill-free coolant funnel preferred) to fill the radiator with Subaru Super Coolant (premixed) until full.
  • Fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line.

Step 9: Bleed air from the cooling system

  • Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off (or spill-free funnel installed).
  • Turn the heater to HOT and fan on low; watch for heat from the vents.
  • As the engine warms up, gently squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times (with nitrile gloves) to help push trapped air out.
  • When the thermostat opens, the coolant level may drop—top off as needed using the funnel.
  • Let the engine reach operating temp and wait for the radiator fan to cycle at least once.
  • Shut the engine off, let it cool, then top off the radiator and reservoir again.
  • Tip: Gurgling = air; keep bleeding until stable.

Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall the shield using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
  • Lift slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands, then lower the Forester.

✅ After Repair

  • Check for leaks around the thermostat housing and lower hose with the engine running.
  • Drive 10–15 minutes, then recheck the coolant level after the engine fully cools; top off the reservoir to FULL.
  • Watch the temp gauge over the next few drives; any overheating means stop and recheck for trapped air or leaks.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$590 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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