How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Thermostat Replacement
Replacing the thermostat on your Escape means draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing, installing the new thermostat, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system. The thermostat controls coolant flow to help the engine warm up and stay at the correct temperature.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses. Coolant is toxic and slippery.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or cooling fan area.
- 🐾 Keep drained coolant away from pets and children. Dispose of used coolant properly.
- 🌡️ Never remove the pressure cap when the engine is hot.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 6-inch socket extension
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Coolant drain pan
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
- Funnel with narrow spout
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine coolant thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing seal or O-ring - Qty: 1
- Motorcraft Orange-compatible engine coolant concentrate - Qty: 1 gallon
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧊 Make sure the engine is fully cold. Waiting overnight is best.
- 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- 🧰 A hose clamp pliers is a tool that squeezes spring-style hose clamps so you can slide them back safely.
- 🧪 If mixing concentrate coolant, use a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the Front Safely
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front pinch welds or approved support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
- Keep the floor jack lightly touching as a backup support.
Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the lower splash shield fasteners.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to release any plastic retainers.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.
- Tip: Take a quick photo first.
Step 3: Relieve Cooling System Pressure
- Make sure the engine is cold.
- Use your hand to slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap.
- Remove the cap fully once any small pressure hiss is gone.
Step 4: Drain Some Coolant
- Place a coolant drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully open the radiator drain valve if equipped.
- If access to the drain valve is limited, use hose clamp pliers to loosen the lower radiator hose clamp and carefully slide the hose back enough to drain coolant.
- Drain about 1-2 gallons, or enough so the thermostat housing area will not spill heavily.
- Close the drain valve with the flat-blade screwdriver, or reinstall the lower hose using hose clamp pliers.
Step 5: Locate the Thermostat Housing
- From the front of the engine bay, follow the lower radiator hose to the engine.
- The thermostat housing is the plastic/metal outlet where the hose connects to the engine.
- Use shop towels around the area to catch leftover coolant.
Step 6: Move the Intake Duct if Needed
- Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the air intake duct clamp.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any air box or duct retaining bolt if it blocks access.
- Lift the duct aside gently without forcing wiring or hoses.
Step 7: Disconnect the Thermostat Hose
- Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp on the hose connected to the thermostat housing.
- Slide the clamp back onto the hose.
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose, then pull it off the housing.
- If stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver carefully at the hose edge only. Do not gouge the housing.
Step 8: Remove the Thermostat Housing Cover
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket, depending on the installed fastener head, to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Use a 6-inch socket extension if access is tight.
- Remove the housing cover slowly because coolant may still drip out.
- Keep track of bolt locations if the bolts are different lengths.
Step 9: Remove the Old Thermostat and Seal
- Pull the old thermostat straight out by hand.
- Remove the old thermostat housing seal or O-ring by hand.
- Use shop towels to clean the sealing surface.
- Do not use metal scrapers on plastic sealing surfaces.
Step 10: Install the New Thermostat
- Compare the new engine coolant thermostat with the old one before installing.
- Install the new thermostat in the same direction as the old thermostat.
- Install the new thermostat housing seal or O-ring into its groove.
- Lightly wet the O-ring with clean coolant so it seats smoothly.
- Tip: The seal must sit flat.
Step 11: Reinstall the Thermostat Housing
- Position the thermostat housing cover by hand.
- Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with ratchet to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten the housing bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 12: Reconnect the Coolant Hose
- Push the hose fully onto the thermostat housing outlet by hand.
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the spring clamp back to its original position.
- Make sure the clamp sits behind the hose bead and is not crooked.
Step 13: Reinstall the Intake Duct
- Reposition the air intake duct by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to tighten the duct clamp.
- If removed, use a 10mm socket to reinstall the air box or duct retaining bolt.
- Tighten small air duct fasteners snug only. Do not overtighten plastic parts.
Step 14: Refill the Cooling System
- Use a funnel with narrow spout to add 50/50 coolant mixture to the coolant reservoir.
- Fill to the MAX line on the reservoir.
- Leave the reservoir cap off for the initial bleed.
Step 15: Reconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Tighten the terminal snugly so it cannot twist by hand.
Step 16: Bleed Air from the Cooling System
- Start the engine and let it idle with the coolant reservoir cap off.
- Set the cabin heater to full hot and fan to low.
- Watch the coolant level in the reservoir and add 50/50 coolant mixture as the level drops.
- Let the engine reach normal operating temperature.
- Once warm air blows from the vents and the upper radiator hose gets hot, install the coolant reservoir cap by hand.
- Check carefully for leaks around the thermostat housing and hose connection.
Step 17: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- After confirming there are no leaks, shut the engine off.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield fasteners.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover or your fingers to reinstall plastic retainers.
Step 18: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower your Escape slowly to the ground.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Take a short 10-15 minute test drive while watching the temperature gauge.
- 🌡️ The temperature gauge should rise normally and stay steady near the middle.
- 🔍 Park, shut the engine off, and inspect the thermostat housing area for leaks.
- 🧊 After the engine cools fully, recheck the coolant level and top off to the MAX line if needed.
- ♻️ Dispose of used coolant at a recycling center or parts store that accepts coolant.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $180-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Coolant Thermostat replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |















