How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013-2015 Subaru Outback (Coolant Drain, Refill & Bleed) (Trim: 2.5i | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step thermostat housing removal with tools list, parts needed, coolant refill/air bleed tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013-2015 Subaru Outback (Coolant Drain, Refill & Bleed) (Trim: 2.5i | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step thermostat housing removal with tools list, parts needed, coolant refill/air bleed tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Outback - Thermostat Replacement
Your Outback’s thermostat controls coolant flow to keep engine temperature stable. Replacing it fixes issues like overheating, slow warm-up, or temperature swings, and it’s also a good time to refresh the coolant if it’s old.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; catch every drop and clean spills right away.
- Subaru-specific: Use Subaru-approved coolant (Super Coolant compatible) to protect aluminum components.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10 quarts)
- Socket set with ratchet (3/8")
- 10mm socket
- 6" extension (3/8")
- Torque wrench (3/8")
- Flathead screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Funnel
- Spill-free funnel kit (specialty)
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat gasket / seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Subaru Super Coolant compatible premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Lower radiator hose clamp - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (radiator hoses should feel cool to the touch).
- Set the heater to full HOT before bleeding later; this helps coolant flow through the heater core.
- A spill-free funnel is a tall funnel that helps burp air.
- A torque wrench tightens bolts to exact force.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid support points and lower the car onto them.
- Keep wheel chocks in place.
Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (undertray)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic clips.
- Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet (3/8") to remove any 10mm bolts.
- Set the undertray aside.
Step 3: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 10 quarts) under the radiator drain area.
- Slowly remove the radiator cap to relieve any remaining pressure.
- Open the radiator drain (petcock) and let coolant drain into the pan.
- If the petcock is hard to turn, use a flathead screwdriver gently. Do not force it.
- Keep rags ready for drips.
Step 4: Locate the thermostat housing
- From underneath, follow the lower radiator hose to where it bolts to the front-lower area of the engine.
- The thermostat sits behind that hose connection in the thermostat housing.
- Use shop rags to wipe the area clean so dirt doesn’t fall inside.
Step 5: Remove the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the hose clamp and slide it back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the housing.
- Catch remaining coolant in the drain pan (at least 10 quarts).
Step 6: Remove the thermostat housing bolts
- Use a 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8"), and 6" extension (3/8") to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Pull the housing off carefully; more coolant will spill, so keep the drain pan positioned.
- Note how the thermostat is oriented before removing it.
Step 7: Replace the thermostat and seal
- Remove the old thermostat and old seal by hand. Use shop rags to catch drips.
- Clean the mating surfaces using shop rags only. Do not gouge aluminum.
- Install the new thermostat in the same orientation as the old one.
- Install the new thermostat gasket / seal (make sure it sits flat and is not pinched).
Step 8: Reinstall the thermostat housing
- Reinstall the housing and start the bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8") to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench (3/8") to finish tightening: Torque to 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lbs).
- Small bolts strip easily—use the torque wrench.
Step 9: Reattach the lower radiator hose
- Push the hose fully onto the thermostat housing outlet by hand.
- Use hose clamp pliers to position the clamp back in its original spot.
- If the clamp is weak or distorted, replace it with a new lower radiator hose clamp.
Step 10: Refill coolant
- Install a spill-free funnel kit (specialty) or funnel at the radiator fill neck.
- Slowly add engine coolant (Subaru Super Coolant compatible premix) until the radiator stays full.
- Fill the coolant overflow tank to the FULL line.
Step 11: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator funnel installed.
- Turn cabin heat to HOT and fan on low.
- As the engine warms up, watch for air bubbles and keep coolant topped up in the funnel.
- Carefully squeeze the upper radiator hose by hand (with nitrile gloves) to help push trapped air out.
- When the thermostat opens, you’ll usually see a noticeable flow change and the radiator hose will get hot.
- Once bubbles stop and heat is steady inside the cabin, shut the engine off and let it cool.
Step 12: Final top-off and reassembly
- After it cools, remove the funnel and install the radiator cap.
- Top off the overflow tank using a funnel if needed.
- Reinstall the undertray using the trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
- Raise the car slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, and lower the car.
✅ After Repair
- Warm the engine to normal temp and check for leaks around the thermostat housing and lower hose.
- Verify the heater blows hot and the temperature gauge stays steady.
- After your first drive, let it cool and recheck the overflow tank level; top off if needed.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (do not pour it on the ground).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Assumption: Stock cooling system and OEM-style thermostat housing on your Outback.
Guide for Engine Coolant Thermostat replace for these Subaru vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2015 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Subaru Outback | 2.5i | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Limited | Flat 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Subaru Outback | 2.5i Premium | Flat 4 2.5L | - |


















