How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013-2015 Honda Accord (Coolant Drain & Bleed) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step thermostat housing removal, tools/parts list, coolant refill, bleeding tips, and leak checks
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2013-2015 Honda Accord (Coolant Drain & Bleed) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step thermostat housing removal, tools/parts list, coolant refill, bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Accord - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls coolant flow to help your Accord warm up quickly and then maintain a steady operating temperature. Replacing it usually means draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing, swapping the thermostat and seal, then refilling and bleeding air out of the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets—catch it all in a drain pan and dispose of it properly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/tools clear of the radiator fan; it can turn on automatically.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but keep metal tools away from the battery positive terminal.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" and 6" socket extensions
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Flat trim tool
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
- Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (premixed 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Hose clamp (lower radiator hose) - Qty: 1 (optional if yours is weak/rusted)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (ideally overnight).
- Set the heater to full hot before you start bleeding later (this helps move air out of the heater core).
- Lift the front of the car with a floor jack and support it with jack stands at the proper lift points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve cooling system pressure (cold engine only)
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Slowly loosen the radiator cap by hand to release any leftover pressure, then remove it.
- If your Accord only has a pressurized reservoir cap, remove that cap instead.
Step 2: Drain coolant into a pan
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
- Remove any lower splash shield panels as needed using a flat trim tool and a 10mm socket.
- Open the radiator drain (petcock) and let coolant drain. Turn slowly—plastic drains can break.
Step 3: Make room to access the thermostat housing
- Locate the lower radiator hose (the larger hose that goes from the radiator to the engine).
- If the air intake duct/box is blocking access, loosen clamps and fasteners using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, then move the ducting aside.
Step 4: Remove the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the housing.
- If it’s stuck, use a pick tool carefully to lift the hose edge. Don’t gouge the plastic/metal neck.
Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing
- Put shop towels under the housing to catch remaining coolant.
- Remove the thermostat housing bolts using a 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and socket extensions.
- Pull the housing straight off and note how the thermostat is positioned.
Step 6: Replace the thermostat and seal
- Remove the old thermostat and old seal/O-ring by hand.
- Clean the mating surfaces using a shop towel. If needed, use a pick tool gently to remove stuck seal material.
- Install the new thermostat in the same orientation as removed (the small “jiggle valve”/air-bleed pin, if equipped, should match the original position). The jiggle valve is a tiny vent that helps trapped air escape.
- Install the new seal/O-ring (do not reuse the old one).
Step 7: Reinstall the thermostat housing
- Refit the housing and hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten the bolts evenly using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Final-tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive) to the manufacturer specification for the thermostat housing bolts. Torque to OEM spec.
Step 8: Reconnect the lower radiator hose
- Slide the hose fully onto the housing neck.
- Use hose clamp pliers to reposition the clamp back to its original spot.
- Wipe the area clean with shop towels so leaks are easy to spot later.
Step 9: Reinstall intake/splash shields
- Reinstall any air intake parts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Reinstall splash shields using a flat trim tool and 10mm socket.
Step 10: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Close the radiator drain (petcock) by hand—snug only.
- Fill with Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (premixed 50/50) using a funnel.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to hot.
- As the engine warms up, watch for air bubbles and add coolant as the level drops.
- When the upper radiator hose gets hot and you see steady flow (thermostat opened), let it run a few more minutes.
- Install the radiator cap (or reservoir cap) once bubbling calms down and the level stabilizes.
- Fill the overflow reservoir to the MAX line.
✅ After Repair
- Let the engine reach normal temperature and confirm the heater blows hot air.
- Check for leaks around the thermostat housing and the lower radiator hose connection.
- Take a 10-15 minute test drive and keep an eye on the temperature gauge.
- After the engine cools completely, recheck the reservoir level and top off if needed.
- If you get overheating, no heat from vents, or gurgling sounds, you likely still have air trapped—repeat the bleeding step.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$605 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Coolant Thermostat replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2015 Honda Accord | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Honda Accord | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | - | V6 3.5L | - |


















