How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2011-2018 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and coolant bleeding tips
How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2011-2018 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and coolant bleeding tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018
🔧 Thermostat - Replacement
The thermostat controls coolant flow so the engine warms up correctly and stays at the right temperature. On your F-150, the thermostat sits in the coolant outlet housing and is replaced by draining some coolant, swapping the housing gasket/O-ring, and refilling the system. Use care with hot coolant and plastic fittings.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before opening the coolant system.
- Never remove the degas bottle cap when the engine is hot.
- Coolant is toxic; keep it off skin, paint, and the driveway.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you want extra safety near the fan and wiring.
- Keep hands clear of the cooling fan and belts if the engine is tested running.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Short extension
- Torque wrench
- Pliers
- Drain pan
- Funnel
- Flat trim tool
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Jack stands
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing gasket or O-ring - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Ford-spec orange, concentrated or premix) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Coolant hose clamp - Qty: 1, if damaged
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully before starting.
- Raise the front only if needed for access, and support it with jack stands.
- Have a drain pan ready before opening any coolant hose or housing.
- If equipped, make sure the truck is in Park and the ignition is off.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain enough coolant
- Place the drain pan under the radiator area.
- Open the coolant drain if accessible, or disconnect the lower hose carefully with pliers if needed.
- Drain only enough coolant to get the level below the thermostat housing.
- Work slowly to avoid spills.
Step 2: Remove intake ducting if it blocks access
- Use the 8mm socket and ratchet to remove the air intake duct fasteners.
- Move the duct aside for working room.
- Disconnect any clips or breather tubes by hand.
Step 3: Remove the thermostat housing
- Use the 10mm socket and ratchet with a short extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Lift the housing straight off.
- Catch any remaining coolant with shop towels.
- Remove the old thermostat and old gasket or O-ring.
Step 4: Clean the sealing surface
- Use a shop towel and a flat trim tool if needed to clean the mating surface.
- Do not gouge the aluminum or plastic surface.
- Make sure the surface is clean and dry before reassembly.
Step 5: Install the new thermostat
- Install the new thermostat in the same direction as the old one.
- Install the new gasket or O-ring.
- Set the housing in place by hand first.
- Use the 10mm socket to start all bolts by hand.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 6: Reinstall removed intake parts
- Reinstall the intake duct and clips.
- Use the 8mm socket to tighten the fasteners.
- Make sure all hoses are fully seated.
Step 7: Refill the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with the correct engine coolant.
- Fill slowly to reduce air pockets.
- Top off the degas bottle to the proper level.
Step 8: Bleed air and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to hot.
- Watch coolant level and add more as air purges out.
- Inspect the thermostat housing, hoses, and drain area for leaks.
- Watch the temperature gauge closely.
✅ After Repair
- Drive the truck until fully warm and confirm normal temperature.
- Recheck coolant level after the engine cools down.
- Inspect again for leaks the next day.
- If the check engine light was on, clear codes with a scan tool and verify they do not return.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)
You Save: $240-$490 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing Gasket replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2018 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2018 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.3L | - |
| 2016 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2016 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2015 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2015 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2014 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2014 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.7L | - |
| 2013 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2013 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.7L | - |
| 2012 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2012 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2012 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.7L | - |
| 2011 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2011 Ford F-150 | - | V8 5.0L | - |
| 2011 Ford F-150 | - | V6 3.7L | - |

















