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2018 Nissan Altima
2009 - 2018 Nissan Altima
Inline 4 2.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to replace the Thermostat 2013-2018 Nissan Altima ♨️

How to replace the Thermostat 2013-2018 Nissan Altima ♨️

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
3/8
3/8
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1.5"
1.5"
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How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2009-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step coolant thermostat repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2009-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step coolant thermostat repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

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Orion

🔧 Altima - Thermostat Replacement

The thermostat controls coolant flow between the engine and radiator. On your Altima, replacing it requires draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing at the engine side of the lower radiator hose, installing a new thermostat/seal, and refilling the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Only work on a fully cold engine. Hot coolant can spray out and cause serious burns.
  • ⚠️ Keep pets away from coolant. Ethylene glycol coolant is poisonous and tastes sweet to animals.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Do not open the radiator cap while the engine is hot.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this repair on your Altima.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive extension
  • Torque wrench, 5-50 Nm range
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Drain pan, 2-gallon minimum
  • Coolant funnel kit with adapters
  • Plastic scraper
  • Clean shop towels
  • Floor jack, 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands, 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine coolant thermostat - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat housing seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Nissan-compatible blue long-life coolant, 50/50 premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons
  • Radiator drain plug seal - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Altima on level ground and let the engine cool completely.
  • Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • If you need more access underneath, raise the front with a floor jack and place it securely on jack stands.
  • A thermostat is a temperature-controlled valve. It stays closed when the engine is cold, then opens as the engine warms up.
  • A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness. This helps prevent leaks and stripped threads.
  • Use only Nissan-compatible blue long-life coolant or a coolant specifically labeled compatible with Nissan blue coolant.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Lower Engine Splash Shield

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Use a floor jack and jack stands if extra space is needed under the front of your Altima.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower splash shield fasteners.
  • Set the splash shield and fasteners aside in order.
  • Tip: Take a photo first.

Step 2: Drain the Coolant

  • Place a 2-gallon drain pan under the radiator drain area.
  • Slowly remove the radiator cap by hand only after the engine is fully cold.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed to open the radiator drain plug carefully.
  • Drain enough coolant so the level is below the thermostat housing. Draining about 1 gallon is usually enough.
  • Close the drain plug once coolant flow slows.
  • If replacing the drain plug seal, install the new radiator drain plug seal now.
  • Do not overtighten the plastic drain plug. Tighten it snug by hand with the flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 3: Locate the Thermostat Housing

  • Follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the engine.
  • The hose connects to the thermostat housing on the engine side.
  • Use a clean shop towel to wipe the area around the housing before removal.

Step 4: Disconnect the Lower Radiator Hose

  • Place the drain pan below the thermostat housing because more coolant may spill.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the hose clamp tabs together.
  • Slide the clamp back onto the hose.
  • Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose, then pull it off the thermostat housing.
  • If the hose is stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver carefully at the hose edge. Do not gouge the aluminum housing surface.
  • Tip: Twist before pulling.

Step 5: Remove the Thermostat Housing

  • Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
  • Pull the thermostat housing straight away from the engine.
  • Note the thermostat direction before removing it. The spring side normally faces into the engine.
  • Remove the thermostat and old seal/O-ring by hand.

Step 6: Clean the Sealing Surfaces

  • Use a plastic scraper to gently clean the thermostat housing and engine sealing surfaces.
  • Wipe the surfaces with clean shop towels.
  • Do not use a metal scraper. Scratches can cause coolant leaks.
  • Make sure no old seal material or dirt falls into the coolant passage.

Step 7: Install the New Thermostat

  • Install the new thermostat with the spring side facing into the engine.
  • Install the new thermostat housing seal/O-ring in the correct groove or position.
  • If the thermostat has a small jiggle valve or bleed hole, position it at the top, near the 12 o’clock position.
  • A jiggle valve is a tiny loose valve that helps trapped air escape during refilling.

Step 8: Reinstall the Thermostat Housing

  • Place the thermostat housing onto the engine by hand, making sure the seal stays seated.
  • Start all housing bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 10mm socket to tighten the housing bolts to Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs).
  • Tip: Tighten evenly, little by little.

Step 9: Reconnect the Lower Radiator Hose

  • Push the lower radiator hose fully onto the thermostat housing neck by hand.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamp back to its original position.
  • Make sure the clamp sits behind the raised bead on the housing neck.

Step 10: Refill the Cooling System

  • Install the coolant funnel kit onto the radiator fill neck.
  • Pour Nissan-compatible blue long-life coolant, 50/50 premix, into the funnel slowly.
  • Fill until the radiator stays full and the funnel has some coolant in it.
  • Fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line.

Step 11: Bleed Air from the Cooling System

  • Leave the coolant funnel kit installed.
  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Set the cabin heater to maximum temperature and the fan to low using the climate controls.
  • Watch for air bubbles coming up through the funnel.
  • As the engine warms up, the thermostat will open and the coolant level may drop. Add coolant as needed.
  • Continue until the upper radiator hose becomes hot and bubbles mostly stop.
  • Do not let the engine overheat. Shut it off if the temperature gauge rises above normal.

Step 12: Check for Leaks and Reinstall the Splash Shield

  • Turn the engine off and let it cool for several minutes.
  • Use a clean shop towel to inspect around the thermostat housing, lower radiator hose, and radiator drain plug.
  • If dry, remove the coolant funnel kit and install the radiator cap by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the lower engine splash shield.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 10mm socket to tighten splash shield bolts snugly if threaded bolts are used, typically Torque to 5-7 Nm (44-62 in-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Start your Altima and let it reach normal operating temperature.
  • Confirm the heater blows warm air. Cold air can mean trapped air or low coolant.
  • Watch the temperature gauge during a short test drive.
  • After the engine cools completely, recheck the coolant reservoir level and top off to MAX if needed.
  • Inspect the thermostat housing again after the first drive for any coolant seepage.
  • Dispose of used coolant at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts coolant. Do not pour it on the ground or into drains.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$95 (parts only)

You Save: $185-$325 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.2-1.8 hours.


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