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2017 Nissan Sentra
2007 - 2012 Nissan Sentra
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
2007 - 2012 Nissan Sentra
Inline 4 2.5L
2013 - 2018 Nissan Sentra
Inline 4 1.8L
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  • Guides
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  • Nissan Sentra
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  • 2017
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  • How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2007-2018 Nissan Sentra (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
2014 Nissan Sentra Thermostat replacement

2014 Nissan Sentra Thermostat replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

1/2
1/2
Ratchet
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
1.5"
1.5"
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Flathead
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How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2007-2018 Nissan Sentra (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and coolant bleeding tips

How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2007-2018 Nissan Sentra (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and coolant bleeding tips for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012

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Orion

🔧 Thermostat - Replacement

The thermostat on your Sentra controls engine coolant flow to help the engine warm up quickly and stay at the right operating temperature. If it sticks open, you may get weak heat and low temp readings; if it sticks closed, the engine can overheat.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Work only on a completely cold engine. Hot coolant can cause serious burns.
  • Relieve pressure slowly by opening the coolant reservoir cap only after the engine is cold.
  • Keep coolant away from pets and children; it is toxic.
  • Use jack stands if you raise the front of the vehicle. Never rely on a jack alone.
  • No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Ratchet
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • Extension bar
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Drain pan
  • Funnel
  • Torque wrench
  • Shop towels
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Thermostat - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat housing gasket - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
  • Have a drain pan ready before removing any hoses or housing bolts.
  • Label hose positions if needed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Drain the coolant

  • Place the drain pan under the radiator drain area.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver or pliers to loosen the clamp and remove the lower radiator hose if needed for drainage.
  • Drain enough coolant so the level drops below the thermostat housing.

Step 2: Remove intake ducting for access

  • Use a screwdriver or 10mm socket to remove the air intake duct or any covers blocking the thermostat housing.
  • Set all fasteners aside in order.

Step 3: Disconnect the upper radiator hose

  • Use pliers to squeeze the hose clamp and slide it back.
  • Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off the thermostat housing.
  • Twist first, then pull.

Step 4: Remove the thermostat housing

  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet with extension bar to remove the housing bolts.
  • Lift the housing off carefully and catch any remaining coolant.
  • Note the thermostat orientation before removal.
  • Torque on reassembly: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

Step 5: Replace the thermostat

  • Remove the old thermostat and gasket.
  • Clean the mating surfaces with a shop towel. Do not scratch the aluminum housing.
  • Install the new thermostat in the same direction as the old one.
  • Install the new gasket.

Step 6: Reinstall the housing and hose

  • Position the housing and start the bolts by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 10mm socket to tighten the bolts evenly.
  • Reinstall the upper radiator hose and move the clamp back into place.
  • Reinstall the intake ducting and any covers removed earlier.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

Step 7: Refill the cooling system

  • Use a funnel to refill with the correct engine coolant.
  • Fill the reservoir to the proper mark.
  • Leave the cap off for initial bleed-out if needed.

Step 8: Bleed air from the system

  • Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to hot.
  • Watch the coolant level and top off as air escapes.
  • When the engine reaches operating temperature, look for steady heat from the vents and no leaks.
  • Install the reservoir cap after the level stabilizes.

✅ After Repair

  • Check for coolant leaks at the thermostat housing and hose connections.
  • Verify the temperature gauge reaches normal and stays steady.
  • Recheck coolant level after a full heat cycle and again the next day when cold.
  • If the temperature warning light comes on, shut the engine off and inspect immediately.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$380 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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