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2013 Nissan Altima
2007 - 2018 Nissan Altima
V6 3.5L
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How to replace the Thermostat 2013-2018 Nissan Altima ♨️

How to replace the Thermostat 2013-2018 Nissan Altima ♨️

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10mm
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How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2007-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace the Thermostat on a 2007-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

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Orion

🔧 Altima - Thermostat Replacement

Replacing the thermostat on your Altima means draining some coolant, removing the thermostat housing, installing a new thermostat and seal, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system. The thermostat controls coolant flow through the engine, and a stuck thermostat can cause overheating, poor cabin heat, or slow warm-up.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work only on a completely cold engine. Hot coolant can spray out and cause severe burns.
  • ⚠️ Coolant is poisonous to people and pets. Catch it in a drain pan and wipe spills right away.
  • ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended because you will be working near the engine cooling fans and wiring.
  • ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap when the engine is hot.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if raising the front. Never rely on a floor jack alone.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
  • Socket extension 6-inch 3/8-inch drive
  • Flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch
  • Pliers 8-inch
  • Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive inch-pound range
  • Coolant drain pan 2-gallon minimum
  • Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
  • Plastic scraper
  • Shop towels
  • Floor jack 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine thermostat - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat housing seal/gasket - Qty: 1
  • Nissan-compatible long-life coolant, blue premix 50/50 - Qty: 1-2 gallons
  • Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • 🧊 Let the engine cool for several hours before opening the cooling system.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before raising the front.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket. This reduces the chance of the cooling fans turning on unexpectedly.
  • 📘 A thermostat is a temperature-controlled valve. It stays closed when the engine is cold and opens as the engine warms up.
  • 🧰 A spill-free funnel locks onto the radiator or reservoir opening and helps remove trapped air from the cooling system.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

  • Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your Altima.
  • Place jack stands 2-ton minimum under the front support points and gently lower the car onto them.
  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Shake vehicle lightly to confirm stability.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

  • Open the hood and locate the battery.
  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Move the negative cable away from the battery post so it cannot touch accidentally.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Engine Splash Shield

  • Position the coolant drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the front of the engine area.
  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the lower splash shield fasteners.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch to gently release any plastic clips.
  • Set the splash shield and fasteners aside in order.

Step 4: Drain the Coolant

  • Make sure the engine is cold.
  • Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to release any remaining pressure.
  • Place the coolant drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the radiator drain area.
  • Use pliers 8-inch or your hand to open the radiator drain cock if accessible.
  • If the drain cock is difficult to reach, use pliers 8-inch to loosen the lower radiator hose clamp and carefully slide the hose back enough to drain coolant.
  • Allow the coolant to drain until flow slows to a drip.
  • Do not spill coolant on belts.

Step 5: Locate the Thermostat Housing

  • Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine.
  • The metal or plastic cover at that connection is the thermostat housing.
  • Use shop towels around the area to catch leftover coolant.

Step 6: Remove the Lower Radiator Hose from the Housing

  • Use pliers 8-inch to compress the spring clamp on the lower radiator hose.
  • Slide the clamp back along the hose.
  • Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose.
  • If stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver 6-inch carefully between the hose and neck to loosen the seal without cutting the hose.
  • Pull the hose off the thermostat housing and aim it into the coolant drain pan 2-gallon minimum.

Step 7: Remove the Thermostat Housing

  • Use a 12mm socket, socket extension 6-inch 3/8-inch drive, and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
  • Pull the housing straight away from the engine.
  • Note the thermostat position before removing it. The new thermostat must face the same way.
  • Remove the old thermostat and seal by hand.

Step 8: Clean the Sealing Surface

  • Use a plastic scraper to clean the thermostat housing and engine mating surfaces.
  • Use shop towels to wipe away old gasket material and coolant residue.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum surface.
  • Clean surfaces prevent leaks.

Step 9: Install the New Thermostat

  • Install the engine thermostat in the same orientation as the old one.
  • Install the thermostat housing seal/gasket onto the thermostat or housing as designed.
  • If the thermostat has a small jiggle valve or bleed pin, position it upward when possible.
  • A jiggle valve is a tiny loose pin that lets trapped air escape while filling coolant.

Step 10: Reinstall the Thermostat Housing

  • Place the housing squarely against the engine by hand.
  • Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 12mm socket, socket extension 6-inch 3/8-inch drive, and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to snug the bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive inch-pound range to tighten the housing bolts evenly to Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs).
  • Do not overtighten small bolts.

Step 11: Reconnect the Lower Radiator Hose

  • Push the lower radiator hose fully onto the thermostat housing neck by hand.
  • Use pliers 8-inch to compress the spring clamp.
  • Slide the clamp back into its original position behind the hose bead.
  • Make sure the hose is not twisted or kinked.

Step 12: Close the Drain and Reinstall the Splash Shield

  • Close the radiator drain cock by hand or with pliers 8-inch if used.
  • If the lower hose was used for draining, confirm the hose and clamp are secure.
  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to reinstall the lower splash shield.
  • Snug the splash shield fasteners. Do not overtighten plastic fasteners.

Step 13: Refill the Cooling System

  • Install the spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) on the coolant fill neck or reservoir opening.
  • Fill with Nissan-compatible long-life coolant, blue premix 50/50.
  • If using concentrate instead of premix, mix it 50/50 with distilled water before adding it.
  • Fill slowly to reduce trapped air.

Step 14: Reconnect the Battery

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm socket to tighten the negative terminal clamp until secure.
  • Do not overtighten the battery terminal.

Step 15: Bleed Air from the Cooling System

  • Keep the spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) installed and partly filled.
  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Set the heater to maximum temperature and the blower to low.
  • Watch for air bubbles coming up through the funnel.
  • As the engine warms up, the thermostat will open and coolant level may drop. Add more coolant as needed.
  • Use safety glasses and keep hands away from fans and belts.
  • When bubbles stop and the heater blows warm air, install the cap using the funnel kit stopper.
  • Air pockets can cause overheating.

Step 16: Check for Leaks

  • Use a flashlight if available to inspect around the thermostat housing and lower radiator hose.
  • Use shop towels to dry the area, then look for fresh coolant.
  • If coolant leaks from the housing, shut the engine off and let it cool before correcting it.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack 2-ton minimum to raise your Altima slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle slowly with the floor jack 2-ton minimum.
  • Remove the wheel chocks.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Let the engine reach normal operating temperature and confirm the temperature gauge stays steady.
  • ✅ Confirm the heater blows warm air at idle.
  • ✅ After the first full heat-up and cool-down, recheck coolant level and top off with the correct coolant if needed.
  • ✅ Check under your Altima for drips after the first drive.
  • ✅ Dispose of used coolant at a recycling center or auto parts store. Do not pour it on the ground or into drains.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $160-$360 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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