🔧 Renegade - Thermostat Replacement

The thermostat controls coolant flow to keep your engine at the correct operating temperature. On your Renegade, the thermostat is part of a housing on the engine, so the job is mostly about safe coolant draining, swapping the housing/thermostat, then refilling and bleeding air out.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant reservoir when hot; wait until fully cool.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep it off skin and away from pets.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ If you remove the battery/nearby wiring, disconnect the negative battery terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (2-gallon minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 1/4" ratchet
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3" extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb, 20–200 in-lb range)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Hose clamp pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• 6mm Allen key

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Thermostat housing assembly (with thermostat and seal) - Qty: 1
• Coolant (OAT, 50/50 premix) - Qty: 2 gallons
• Radiator hose clamp - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock a rear wheel.
• 🧰 Let the engine cool completely (at least 2 hours).
• 🧰 Set the HVAC temperature to full HOT (helps coolant flow through the heater core).
• 🧰 If you’ll remove the battery/airbox for access: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative terminal first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover and open access

• Pull up on the engine cover to pop it off (no tools).
• Loosen the intake hose clamp using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
• Unclip/remove the air intake tube and, if needed for space, remove the airbox using a 10mm socket.
• Take a quick photo before unplugging anything.

Step 2: Raise the front (if needed) and remove the lower splash shield

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower splash shield fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.

Step 3: Drain the coolant

• Place a drain pan (2-gallon minimum) under the radiator area.
• Slowly open the coolant reservoir cap to release any remaining pressure.
• Drain coolant by loosening the lower radiator hose clamp with hose clamp pliers and sliding the hose off carefully (aim it into the drain pan).
• Reinstall the hose loosely to stop dripping once drained.

Step 4: Disconnect the thermostat housing connections

• Locate the thermostat housing at the engine coolant outlet (where the upper radiator hose connects).
• Unplug the electrical connector on the housing (press the lock tab by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck).
• Release the hose clamp with hose clamp pliers, then twist and pull the hose off the housing.

Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing

• Remove the thermostat housing mounting bolts using a 10mm socket with a 3" extension.
• Pull the housing straight off.
• Clean the mating surface with shop towels (do not gouge the aluminum).

Step 6: Install the new thermostat housing

• Install the new housing with its seal seated correctly.
• Hand-start all bolts, then tighten evenly using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lb) using a torque wrench (in-lb, 20–200 in-lb range).
• Reconnect the coolant hose and position the clamp using hose clamp pliers.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 7: Reinstall the air intake/airbox and splash shield

• Reinstall the airbox/intake tube using a 10mm socket and tighten the clamp with an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reinstall the lower splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle safely using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 8: Refill and bleed the cooling system

• Fill the coolant reservoir slowly using a funnel with coolant (OAT, 50/50 premix) to the MAX line.
• If equipped with an air bleeder screw near the thermostat housing: open it with a 6mm Allen key (a bleeder screw is a small valve that lets trapped air out).
• Add coolant until a steady stream (no bubbles) comes out, then close the bleeder with the 6mm Allen key.
• Start the engine and let it idle with the heater on HOT; watch for leaks with safety glasses on.
• Let the engine warm until the radiator fan cycles once; shut off and let it cool, then top off to MAX.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Test drive 10–15 minutes and verify the temperature stays normal and heat works.
• 🧪 Recheck for leaks around the thermostat housing and hose connections.
• 🧪 After the engine cools completely, recheck coolant level and top off to the MAX line.
• 🧪 If the check-engine light comes on, scan for codes before driving further.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$640 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.