How to Replace the Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Hyundai Tucson (Cooling System Repair) (Engine: Inline 4 1.6L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleed steps, and safety tips
How to Replace the Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Hyundai Tucson (Cooling System Repair) (Engine: Inline 4 1.6L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleed steps, and safety tips for 2016
🔧 Tucson - Thermostat Replacement
The thermostat controls coolant flow to keep your engine at the correct temperature. If it’s stuck open you may get low heat and poor fuel economy; if it’s stuck closed the engine can overheat. On your Tucson, the thermostat is serviced at the thermostat housing and requires draining and refilling coolant.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
Assumption: This is the 1.6T thermostat/housing service at the engine-side coolant outlet.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work only on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Keep hands clear of the cooling fan; it can turn on automatically.
- Use jack stands if you raise the front; never rely on a jack alone.
- Clean spills immediately; coolant is toxic to people and pets.
- Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be working close to the radiator fan wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb or Nm scale)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Thermostat (with housing, if equipped) - Qty: 1
- Thermostat housing gasket/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Hyundai/Kia P-OAT compatible, premixed 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Replacement hose clamps - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (upper radiator hose should feel cool).
- If raising the front, use a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
- Set the HVAC to full HOT during bleeding later (this opens the heater circuit for better air removal).
- If you choose to disconnect the battery, use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a floor jack and jack stands to safely raise and support the front if needed.
- Use a trim clip remover and 10mm socket to remove clips/bolts from the lower splash shield.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in a tray.
Step 2: Drain coolant to below thermostat level
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Use a flathead screwdriver (or by hand, depending on style) to open the radiator drain cock slowly.
- Drain enough coolant so the level is below the thermostat housing (usually 1-2 liters).
- Close the drain cock securely when done.
Step 3: Gain access to the thermostat housing
- Open the hood and remove any ducting that blocks access.
- Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen hose clamps on intake ducting, then lift the ducting out.
- Tip: Take a quick photo before removing hoses.
Step 4: Disconnect coolant hose(s) from the thermostat housing
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress and slide the clamp back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off.
- If it’s stubborn, use a pick tool carefully to loosen the hose edge without gouging the plastic/metal neck.
- Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan and shop towels.
Step 5: Remove the thermostat housing
- Unplug any nearby electrical connector(s) that prevent access (press the lock tab by hand; use a pick tool gently if needed).
- Use a 10mm socket (and extension if needed) to remove the thermostat housing bolts.
- Remove the housing and thermostat assembly.
- Note: More coolant will spill when the housing opens—keep the drain pan positioned.
Step 6: Clean the sealing surfaces
- Use shop towels to wipe the mating surface on the engine and the housing.
- Remove old gasket/O-ring material completely.
- Do not scratch aluminum surfaces; avoid aggressive scraping.
Step 7: Install the new thermostat and gasket/O-ring
- Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new thermostat/housing as designed.
- Position the thermostat/housing on the engine correctly (align bolt holes evenly).
- Hand-thread the bolts first to avoid cross-threading.
Step 8: Tighten the thermostat housing bolts
- Use a 10mm socket to snug bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Use a torque wrench to finish tightening: Torque to OEM specification.
- Tip: Overtightening can crack housings.
Step 9: Reconnect hose(s) and connectors
- Push the hose(s) fully onto the thermostat neck(s).
- Use hose clamp pliers to position clamps back in the original locations.
- Reconnect any electrical connector(s) until they click.
Step 10: Refill coolant
- Use a funnel to fill the coolant reservoir (and radiator fill point if accessible) with Hyundai/Kia P-OAT compatible premixed 50/50 coolant.
- Fill to the MAX line on the reservoir.
Step 11: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Set HVAC to full HOT with the fan on low.
- Watch the temperature gauge; it should rise normally and stabilize.
- As the engine warms, add coolant with the funnel as the level drops.
- When you feel steady heat from the vents and the upper radiator hose gets hot, the thermostat has opened.
- Let it idle a few more minutes, then shut off and allow it to cool fully.
Step 12: Reinstall the splash shield and intake ducting
- Reinstall ducting and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Once fully cool, recheck the reservoir level and top off to MAX using the correct coolant.
- Inspect for leaks around the thermostat housing and hose connections with a flashlight.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks and verify the heater blows hot.
- Over the next 2-3 drives, recheck coolant level each morning (engine cold) and top off as needed.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (most parts stores accept waste fluids).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$840 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Coolant Thermostat replace for these Hyundai vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 1.6L | - |


















