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2016 Dodge Journey
2016 Dodge Journey
SE - Inline 4 2.4L
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2016 Dodge Journey Thermostat Assembly Replacement #autorepair #diagnostictroublecode

2016 Dodge Journey Thermostat Assembly Replacement #autorepair #diagnostictroublecode

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
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How to Replace the Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Dodge Journey

Step-by-step thermostat replacement with tools/parts list, coolant fill & bleed steps, and torque specs

How to Replace the Thermostat Housing on a 2016 Dodge Journey

Step-by-step thermostat replacement with tools/parts list, coolant fill & bleed steps, and torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Journey - Thermostat Replacement

The thermostat controls coolant flow to keep your engine at the correct temperature. If it sticks closed you can overheat; if it sticks open the engine may run cold and set a check-engine light. On your Journey, the thermostat is part of a housing at the engine-side end of the lower radiator hose.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Thermostat is serviced as a thermostat housing assembly (common on the 2.4L).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; wait until fully cool.
  • ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep it off skin/eyes and away from pets.
  • ⚠️ Electric cooling fans can turn on by themselves; keep hands/tools clear.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you lift it—never rely on a jack.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but it’s OK to disconnect the negative cable if you want extra safety around the fans.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
  • Funnel
  • Spill-free funnel kit (specialty)
  • Shop rags
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3" and 6" 1/4" drive extensions
  • Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
  • Trim clip remover
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Thermostat housing assembly (with thermostat) - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat housing gasket / O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant (Mopar OAT 50/50 premix, purple) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
  • Hose clamp (lower radiator hose) - Qty: 1 (replace if weak/damaged)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool completely (radiator hose should feel cool).
  • Set your heater to full HOT later during bleeding (this helps move coolant through the heater core).
  • Place a drain pan under the radiator area before you open anything.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve pressure safely

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to release any leftover pressure, then remove it.

Step 2: Raise the front (if you need more access)

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
  • Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 3: Drain enough coolant to get below thermostat level

  • Position a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
  • If equipped with an access shield, remove fasteners using a trim clip remover and/or 10mm socket.
  • Drain coolant from the radiator drain cock (if accessible). If the drain cock isn’t accessible, you can drain by carefully removing the lower radiator hose in Step 5 (expect a faster gush).

Step 4: Locate the thermostat housing

  • Follow the lower radiator hose to the engine. The hose connects to the thermostat housing.
  • Use a shop rag to wipe the area clean so dirt can’t fall into the opening.

Step 5: Remove the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing

  • Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) (they lock onto spring clamps) to compress the clamp and slide it back on the hose.
  • Twist the hose by hand to break it loose, then pull it off the housing.
  • Let coolant drain into the drain pan.
  • Tip: Twisting first prevents tearing the hose.

Step 6: Remove the thermostat housing

  • Remove any obstructing components as needed using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • Remove thermostat housing bolts using an 8mm socket (some fasteners may be 10mm depending on housing design).
  • Pull the thermostat housing straight off and keep the opening facing up to reduce spills.

Step 7: Clean the sealing surfaces

  • Remove the old gasket / O-ring.
  • Use a shop rag to clean the mating surfaces until dry and smooth.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum surface.

Step 8: Install the new thermostat housing

  • Install the new gasket / O-ring onto the new housing (make sure it sits flat and is not twisted).
  • Position the new thermostat housing and start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten bolts evenly using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • Final-tighten using a torque wrench (inch-pound): Torque to 12 N·m (106 in-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the lower radiator hose

  • Slide the hose fully onto the thermostat housing.
  • Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move the clamp back into its original position.
  • If the clamp feels weak or won’t hold tension, replace it.

Step 10: Refill coolant and bleed air

  • Install a spill-free funnel kit (specialty) onto the coolant reservoir opening, then add Mopar OAT 50/50 premix using a funnel as needed.
  • Start the engine and set the HVAC to full HOT.
  • Let the engine idle until it reaches normal operating temperature. Watch for heat from the vents.
  • As the thermostat opens, the coolant level may drop—add coolant as needed.
  • Gently squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to help push trapped air out (use nitrile gloves).
  • Once bubbles stop and heat is steady, shut the engine off and let it cool completely, then top off to the FULL COLD mark.

Step 11: Reinstall shields and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall any shields using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
  • Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, then lower the vehicle.

âś… After Repair

  • Start the engine and check carefully for leaks around the thermostat housing and the lower hose connection.
  • Confirm the heater blows hot and the temperature gauge stays normal.
  • After your first drive and a full cool-down, recheck the coolant level and top off to FULL COLD.
  • If the check-engine light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to clear; a scan tool can clear codes immediately.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$590 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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