🔧 Escape - Starter Motor Replacement

You’ll be removing the old starter from the front of the engine (where it meets the transmission) and bolting in a new one, then reconnecting the wiring. This fixes no-crank or slow-crank issues when the battery and cables are good but the starter has failed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the starter to avoid short circuits and accidental cranking.
• 🛑 Support the front of the vehicle securely on jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• 🛑 The starter has a large “hot” cable directly from the battery; touching it to metal without disconnecting the battery can create sparks and fire.
• 🛑 Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before working underneath to avoid burns.
• 🛑 Keep the key and any key fobs away from the vehicle so no one tries to start it while you’re working.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 2)
• Wheel chocks
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Ratchet 1/2" drive
• Socket 8mm
• Socket 10mm
• Socket 13mm
• Socket 15mm
• Deep socket 13mm
• Extension 3/8" drive (3"–6")
• Extension 1/2" drive (6")
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (5–80 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• Trim removal tool plastic
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light or headlamp
• Mechanic’s creeper or mat
• Gloves mechanic
• Safety glasses
• Battery terminal brush

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor assembly (for 1.5L engine, AWD) - Qty: 1
• Starter motor mounting bolts (set) - Qty: 1 (if specified as one-time-use)
• Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Anti-corrosion spray for electrical connectors - Qty: 1
• Plastic push-pin clips for lower engine splash shield - Qty: 4–6 (in case any break)

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Escape on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and set the parking brake firmly.
• Turn off all accessories and remove the key or key fob from the vehicle.
• Open the hood and locate the battery on the left side of the engine bay.
• Plan to work mostly from underneath; make sure you have enough space and lighting.
• No scan tool or programming is normally required after starter replacement on this model.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Put on your safety glasses and gloves.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the nut on the negative (-, usually black) battery terminal clamp.
• Twist and lift the negative cable off the battery post and tuck it to the side so it cannot spring back.
• Always remove negative terminal first for safety.

Step 2: Raise and support the front of the vehicle

• Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• Position the floor jack under the front center jacking point (front subframe or crossmember, as marked in the owner’s manual).
• Jack up the front of the Escape until you have enough room to work underneath.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds or frame points and slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Remove the lower engine splash shield

• The splash shield is the plastic cover under the engine.
• Use a flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool to pry out the plastic push-pin clips along the front and sides.
• Use an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove any small bolts holding the shield.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep clips and bolts in a small container.

Step 4: Locate the starter motor

• From under the front of the vehicle, look up at the area where the engine meets the transmission (bellhousing).
• The starter is a cylindrical motor bolted to the transmission side of the engine, with a thick cable and a small plug attached.
• Use your work light to clearly see the starter and its wiring.

Step 5: Disconnect the starter electrical connectors

• The large cable is the main battery cable (B+), attached with a nut; the smaller connector is the control wire.
• First, remove the small control connector:
  • Press the lock tab on the connector (use needle-nose pliers if needed) and pull it straight off the starter solenoid.
• Next, remove the large battery cable:
  • Use a 13mm deep socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the nut on the large terminal.
  • Pull the cable eyelet off the stud and move it aside.
• Battery is disconnected, but still avoid shorting tools to metal.

Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• The starter is typically held by two or three mounting bolts into the transmission or engine block.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 1/2" ratchet and appropriate extension to reach each starter mounting bolt.
• Break each bolt loose, then remove them one by one. Support the starter with your free hand as you remove the last bolt so it doesn’t drop.
• Once all bolts are out, carefully lower and remove the starter from the vehicle.

Step 7: Compare old and new starters

• Set the old starter and new starter side by side on the ground.
• Check:
  • Mounting holes are in the same positions.
  • Electrical terminals are in the same locations and sizes.
  • Gear size and position match.
• If anything is different, do not install it.

Step 8: Install the new starter

• Lift the new starter into position at the bellhousing opening.
• Align the starter nose with the opening and the bolt holes with the threaded holes in the transmission/engine.
• Install the mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Once all bolts are finger-tight, use a 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to snug them evenly.
• Then use a 1/2" torque wrench with the 15mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
• Tighten each bolt gradually to keep the starter flat.

Step 9: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Lightly clean the eyelet of the large battery cable with the battery terminal brush if corroded.
• Place the large cable eyelet onto the large stud on the new starter.
• Install the nut and tighten it with a 13mm deep socket and 3/8" torque wrench to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs). Do not overtighten; you can damage the stud.
• Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the small control connector pins.
• Push the small control connector back onto the starter until it clicks.

Step 10: Reinstall the lower engine splash shield

• Lift the splash shield back into place under the engine.
• Install any bolts first using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet; snug them but do not overtighten.
• Reinstall the plastic push-pin clips using your fingers or trim removal tool to press them fully seated.

Step 11: Lower the vehicle

• Position the floor jack under the same front jacking point and raise the vehicle slightly to take weight off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands from both sides.
• Slowly lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack.
• Remove the wheel chocks from behind the rear wheels.

Step 12: Reconnect the battery

• At the battery, inspect the terminals; clean them with the battery terminal brush if needed.
• Place the negative (-) cable back on the negative battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to tighten the clamp just enough so it does not move by hand.
• Spray a light coat of battery terminal protector spray on the terminals to reduce future corrosion.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the Escape and listen for normal cranking: it should be quick and smooth with no grinding, whining, or clicking.
• If the starter just clicks or does nothing, recheck the battery connection and both starter connections.
• Check under the vehicle for any loose parts or hanging wiring before driving.
• Take a short test drive, then shut off and restart the engine several times to confirm consistent operation.
• Most radio and settings should remain; if any clock or presets reset, adjust them through the infotainment menus as needed.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550–$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220–$380 (parts only)

You Save: $330–$420 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections above to add everything to your cart.