🔧 Ascent - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor spins the engine so it can start. On your Ascent, the starter sits at the top of the transmission bellhousing and is easiest to reach from above after removing the top-mount intercooler and a few intake parts.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable first to prevent short circuits.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; the turbo and intercooler area can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep metal tools away from the starter’s main power terminal (always “hot” if battery is connected).
• ⚠️ Do not pry on plastic intake/boost fittings; they can crack and cause boost leaks.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Fender cover
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (10–80 Nm range)
• 6" socket extension
• 12" socket extension
• Flathead screwdriver
• Hose clamp pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Magnetic pickup tool
• Shop light

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor - Qty: 1
• Intercooler-to-throttle-body seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Intercooler outlet seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and allow the engine to cool for at least 30–60 minutes.
• Have a small tray ready for bolts/clamps so nothing falls into the engine bay.
• Battery disconnect: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal first.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen and remove the negative (-) battery terminal.
• Tuck the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the post.
• Battery negative comes off first, goes on last.

Step 2: Remove the engine cover and intake ducting (as needed for access)

• Lift off the engine cover by hand (it’s held by rubber grommets).
• If an air duct/snorkel blocks access, remove clips using a trim clip removal tool and loosen clamps with a flathead screwdriver.

Step 3: Remove the top-mount intercooler

• Loosen the intercooler hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver (or use hose clamp pliers if spring clamps are fitted).
• Disconnect any small vacuum hose(s) attached to the intercooler area using needle-nose pliers (pull gently, don’t yank).
• Remove the intercooler mounting bolts using a 12mm socket.
• Carefully lift the intercooler up and out. If it feels stuck, wiggle it side-to-side—do not pry on the fins.
• Cover open boost/intake openings with a clean rag to keep bolts out.
• When reinstalling later: Torque intercooler mounting bolts to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Locate the starter and remove its electrical connections

• The starter is at the top of the transmission bellhousing, now visible under/behind where the intercooler sat.
• Unplug the small starter solenoid connector by depressing the lock tab (use needle-nose pliers carefully if needed).
• Remove the rubber boot on the main power terminal.
• Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut on the main power cable and lift the cable off the stud.
• Keep the cable away from metal parts.

Step 5: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Support the starter with one hand.
• Use a 14mm socket with a 6" socket extension (and 12" socket extension if needed) to remove the two starter mounting bolts.
• Pull the starter straight out from the bellhousing.
• If a bolt tries to fall, grab it with a magnetic pickup tool.

Step 6: Install the new starter

• Compare the new starter to the old one (mounting ears, electrical stud position).
• Slide the starter into place and start both mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the mounting bolts using a 14mm socket, then torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) with a 3/8" torque wrench.

Step 7: Reconnect starter wiring

• Install the main power cable onto the starter terminal stud.
• Use a 12mm socket to tighten the nut, then torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
• Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal and reinstall the rubber boot.
• Plug in the solenoid connector until it clicks.

Step 8: Reinstall intercooler with new seals

• Replace the intercooler seals/O-rings (old ones can cause boost leaks).
• Set the intercooler back in place and make sure it fully seats into both couplers.
• Reinstall bolts using a 12mm socket and torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver (snug, not crushing the hose).
• Reconnect any vacuum hoses you removed using needle-nose pliers.

Step 9: Reconnect the battery

• Reinstall the negative (-) battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly and starts normally.
• Listen for any hissing/whistling near the intercooler hoses (sign of a boost leak).
• Check that no warning lights appear; if one does, re-check every intercooler hose connection and electrical connector.
• Re-set the clock/radio presets if they were lost.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,150 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$520 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$630 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.