🔧 Challenger - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor is what spins your engine fast enough to begin running. On your Challenger, it’s mounted low on the engine near the transmission bellhousing, so the job is mostly an “under-the-car” access and wiring swap.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery before touching starter wires (prevents shorts and burns).
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before going underneath (never rely on a jack).
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely; the starter area can be near hot components.
• ⚠️ Keep the key out of the car while working (prevents accidental cranking).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm)
• 3/8" drive extensions (3" and 6")
• Swivel adapter (3/8" drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor - Qty: 1
• Starter electrical terminal nut kit - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and get your 10mm socket ready for the battery.
• Tip: Take a photo of starter wiring first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp and remove it from the battery.
• Tuck the cable end aside so it can’t spring back onto the post.

Step 2: Raise and support the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the correct front jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic push-pins/screws holding the shield.
• Set the hardware aside in a small tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 4: Locate the starter and unplug the small control connector

• Use a work light to find the starter (cylindrical motor) mounted to the transmission bellhousing area.
• Unplug the small connector on the starter solenoid by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight off.
• Tip: If stuck, wiggle—don’t yank the wires.

Step 5: Remove the main battery cable from the starter

• Pull back the protective boot covering the large power stud on the starter.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut holding the main cable to the starter.
• Move the cable aside so it can’t touch metal.

Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Support the starter with one hand so it doesn’t drop when the bolts come out.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive extension (6") and swivel adapter as needed to remove the starter mounting bolts.
• Lower the starter out of the car.

Step 7: Compare the old and new starter

• Check that the new starter matches the old one: mounting holes, nose shape, and electrical posts.
• If your new starter includes new nuts, use them (they grip better and reduce loosening).

Step 8: Install the new starter

• Lift the starter into place and hand-thread the mounting bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 15mm socket to snug the bolts evenly.
• Finish tightening with a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range): Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Install the main battery cable onto the starter power stud.
• Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
• Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal, then plug the small control connector back in until it clicks.
• Reinstall the protective boot over the power stud.

Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield

• Position the shield and reinstall the fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver.

Step 11: Lower the car and reconnect the battery

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly with no clicking or grinding.
• Check that no wires are touching the exhaust or steering/suspension parts.
• Look under the car for any loose fasteners or a hanging splash shield.
• If you notice intermittent no-crank, recheck the main cable nut tightness and connector lock.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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