🔧 Trax - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor is the electric motor that cranks your engine when you turn the key/push the button. On your Trax, it’s bolted to the transmission bellhousing area and has a large battery cable plus a small control wire that must be removed carefully.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent an electrical short.
• 🧊 Let the engine cool; you’ll work near hot components.
• 🧰 Support the vehicle on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚡ Do not allow tools to touch the starter power stud and metal at the same time.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench
• 6" extension
• 12" extension
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip remover
• Fender cover
• Battery terminal puller (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor - Qty: 1
• Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2 (recommended if specified by parts listing)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
• Plan to disconnect the battery: you’ll remove the negative terminal first, then the positive if needed.
• If your Trax has a lower engine splash shield, you’ll remove it for access from underneath.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative (–) battery terminal clamp and remove it from the battery post.
• Tuck the cable end aside so it can’t spring back to the post.
• Negative off first prevents accidental sparks.

Step 2: Raise the front of the vehicle (for underside access)

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip remover and flat-blade screwdriver to remove clips/fasteners.
• Use a 10mm socket if bolts are present.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.

Step 4: Locate the starter motor

• From underneath, look where the engine meets the transmission (bellhousing area). The starter is a cylindrical motor with a smaller solenoid attached and wiring on the back.

Step 5: Disconnect the starter electrical connections

• Remove the protective rubber boot from the large starter power stud.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut holding the main battery cable to the starter stud, then remove the cable.
• Disconnect the small starter control wire connector (signal wire). If it uses a small nut instead of a plug, use a 10mm socket to remove it.
• Take a quick photo before removal.

Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Support the starter with one hand.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 6" extension (and universal joint socket adapter if needed) to remove the starter mounting bolts.
• Lower the starter out carefully.

Step 7: Install the new starter

• Position the new starter in place and start both mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 15mm socket to snug the bolts.
• Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten the starter mounting bolts: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Apply a thin film of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot. It helps resist corrosion.
• Install the main battery cable onto the starter power stud and tighten the nut using a 13mm socket: Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs).
• Reconnect the small control wire connector (or nut if equipped). If it’s a nut style, tighten with a 10mm socket: Torque to 4 Nm (35 in-lbs).
• Reinstall the protective rubber boot over the main stud.

Step 9: Reinstall the lower splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the shield.
• Reinstall fasteners using a 10mm socket and clips using a trim clip remover.

Step 10: Lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower the vehicle.
• Reconnect the negative (–) battery terminal using a 10mm socket. Tighten until snug and the clamp won’t rotate on the post.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Trax and confirm it cranks strongly without clicking or grinding noises.
• With the engine running, check that the battery/charging warning light is off.
• Recheck underneath for any loose wiring near the starter and make sure the rubber boot is fully covering the power stud.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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