🔧 Kicks - Starter Motor Replacement

Your Kicks’ starter motor is the electric motor that cranks the engine when you turn the key/start button. Replacement usually involves disconnecting the battery, removing a splash shield (plastic under-cover), unplugging the starter wiring, and unbolting the starter from the transmission bellhousing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery terminal first to prevent sparks and electrical damage.
• 🛑 Never work under the vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands on solid ground.
• 🛑 Let the engine cool; the exhaust and radiator area can burn you.
• 🛑 Keep the key fob away from the car while you work so it can’t accidentally crank.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
• Torque wrench (10–100 Nm range)
• Flat trim clip tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor assembly - Qty: 1
• Starter electrical terminal nut (if damaged) - Qty: 1
• Undertray/splash shield clips (as needed) - Qty: 2-6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and make sure the ignition is OFF (keep the key fob away).
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (-) terminal first, then isolate it so it can’t spring back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of your Kicks

• Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point to lift the vehicle.
• Place jack stands at the approved front support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (under-cover)

• The splash shield is the plastic panel under the engine that blocks dirt and water.
• Use a flat trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers to remove the plastic push-clips.
• Remove any small bolts with a 10mm socket, then lower the panel and set it aside.

Step 3: Locate the starter and access the wiring

• Use a work light to find the starter where the engine meets the transmission (bellhousing area).
• Identify the two connections on the starter: the large battery cable (thicker wire) and the small control connector (smaller plug).

Step 4: Disconnect the starter electrical connections

• Remove the small control connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling it off by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if the tab is stubborn).
• Remove the protective rubber boot from the large battery cable terminal.
• Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut from the starter’s main terminal, then lift the cable off and tuck it aside.

Step 5: Unbolt and remove the starter motor

• Support the starter with one hand.
• Use a 14mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and a 3/8" drive extension to remove the starter mounting bolts.
• Remove the starter from the bellhousing area and guide it out carefully.

Step 6: Install the new starter motor

• Position the new starter in place and hand-start the mounting bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the starter mounting bolts using a torque wrench (10–100 Nm range) (a torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact spec so parts don’t loosen or crack).
• Torque starter mounting bolts to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Install the large battery cable onto the starter terminal.
• Use a 12mm socket and then a torque wrench to tighten the terminal nut.
• Torque starter B-terminal nut to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
• Reinstall the rubber boot over the terminal.
• Push the small control connector back on until it clicks.

Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield

• Lift the splash shield back into position.
• Reinstall bolts with a 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the push-clips using a flat trim clip tool.

Step 9: Lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle.
• Reconnect the battery terminals: positive (+) first if removed, then negative (-).
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the negative terminal clamp.
• Torque battery terminal clamp nut to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Make sure the clamp doesn’t rotate by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the ignition ON (don’t start) and confirm no warning lights related to battery connection stay on.
• Start the engine and listen: it should crank strongly without grinding or clicking.
• Check under the vehicle for any loose wiring, tools, or missing clips.
• If it won’t crank: re-check the small control connector and the battery terminal tightness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$520 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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