How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2017 Toyota Tacoma 3.5L V6
Step-by-step DIY starter replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2017 Toyota Tacoma 3.5L V6
Step-by-step DIY starter replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings


đź”§ Tacoma - Starter Motor Replacement
You’ll be removing the old starter from the side of the engine, near the transmission, and installing a new one. This involves disconnecting the battery, removing the skid plate, unbolting the starter, and swapping it with the replacement part.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🔹Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on the starter; you are working directly on the main power cable from the battery.
- 🔹Support the truck securely with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🔹Allow the exhaust and engine to cool completely before working underneath.
- 🔹Wear safety glasses; dirt and rust may fall while removing the skid plate and starter.
- 🔹Keep the ignition key out of the vehicle while the starter is disconnected.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🔹10mm socket
- 🔹12mm socket
- 🔹14mm socket
- 🔹3/8" drive ratchet
- 🔹3/8" drive socket extension (3–6")
- 🔹1/2" drive ratchet
- 🔹1/2" drive torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
- 🔹Flathead screwdriver (medium)
- 🔹Needle-nose pliers
- 🔹Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 🔹Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
- 🔹Wheel chocks
- 🔹Work light or flashlight
- 🔹Mechanic’s gloves
- 🔹Safety glasses
- 🔹Fender cover or towel
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔹Starter motor assembly (3.5L V6, 4WD, manual) - Qty: 1
- 🔹Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2 (recommended new)
- 🔹Battery terminal cleaning brush - Qty: 1
- 🔹Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- 🔹Replacement skid plate bolts/clips - Qty: As needed
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park your Tacoma on level ground, set the parking brake, and place the transmission in gear.
- Chock the rear wheels so the truck cannot roll.
- Open the hood and make sure you have your radio codes or settings backed up if needed.
- Let the engine and exhaust cool for at least 30–45 minutes if recently driven.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Open the hood and locate the battery on the driver’s side.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the nut on the negative (black, “-”) battery terminal.
- Lift the cable off the terminal and tuck it aside so it cannot accidentally touch the battery post.
- Always remove negative terminal first
Step 2: Raise and support the front of the truck
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Use the floor jack under the front crossmember to lift the front of your Tacoma.
- Place jack stands under the frame rails on both sides and slowly lower the truck onto them.
- Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
Step 3: Remove the front skid plate
- Position your work light under the front of the truck.
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the bolts securing the front skid plate to the frame.
- Support the plate with one hand as you remove the last bolts so it does not fall.
- Lower the skid plate and set it aside.
- Note bolt locations for easier reassembly
Step 4: Locate the starter
- Crawl under from the passenger side and look where the engine meets the transmission.
- The starter is a cylindrical motor bolted to the transmission bellhousing on the passenger side, with a thick cable attached.
- Use your work light to clearly see the wiring and bolts.
Step 5: Disconnect the starter wiring
- On the starter, you’ll see:
- A large cable held by a nut (battery cable).
- A smaller plug or push-on connector (signal wire).
- Use a flathead screwdriver to gently release any plastic clip or locking tab on the smaller connector, then pull it off by hand. Do not pull on the wire itself.
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the nut holding the large cable to the starter stud.
- Pull the cable eyelet off the stud and set it aside where it will not touch metal.
- Note the order of any washers on the stud
Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts
- The starter is held to the transmission by two bolts from the bellhousing side.
- Use a 14mm socket, 3/8" extension, and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the lower starter bolt first.
- Remove the lower bolt completely and set it aside.
- Use the same 14mm socket and extension to remove the upper starter bolt. You may need to feel for it by hand.
- Support the starter body with one hand as you remove the last few turns of the upper bolt so it doesn’t drop.
Step 7: Remove the starter from the truck
- Once both bolts are out, carefully pull the starter straight back away from the transmission.
- You may need to slightly twist or angle the starter to clear nearby components.
- Lower it out of the engine bay and compare it to the new starter to ensure the mounting points and electrical connections are identical.
- Match old and new parts before installing
Step 8: Install the new starter
- Position the new starter in place, aligning the nose into the opening in the transmission bellhousing.
- Start the upper bolt by hand through the transmission into the starter housing. Do not tighten yet.
- Start the lower bolt by hand. Make sure both bolts thread easily; if not, back them out and realign the starter.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug both bolts evenly.
- Then use the 1/2" drive torque wrench with the 14mm socket to tighten both bolts to 53 Nm (39 ft-lbs).
- Hand-start bolts to avoid cross-threading
Step 9: Reconnect the starter wiring
- Lightly clean the large cable eyelet with the battery terminal cleaning brush if it looks dirty or corroded.
- Slide the cable eyelet over the large stud on the starter.
- Install the nut on the stud by hand, then use a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug it. Do not overtighten.
- If you have a small torque wrench that reads inch-pounds, tighten the nut to about 6 Nm (53 in-lbs). If not, just snug plus a small additional turn.
- Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease to the small electrical connector terminals if available.
- Push the small connector back onto the starter terminal until it clicks or feels firmly seated.
Step 10: Reinstall the skid plate
- Lift the skid plate back into position under the front of the truck.
- Start all bolts by hand to ensure proper alignment.
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to tighten the skid plate bolts securely. Typical torque is around 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Lower the truck
- Use the floor jack to raise the front of the truck slightly and remove the jack stands.
- Slowly lower the truck back onto the ground.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
Step 12: Reconnect the battery
- At the battery, place the negative cable back onto the negative terminal.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to tighten the clamp nut until snug. Do not overtighten.
- Optionally apply a light coat of dielectric grease around the battery terminal to help prevent corrosion.
âś… After Repair
- Turn the ignition key to “ON” and wait a few seconds, then turn to “START” and verify the engine cranks quickly and smoothly.
- Listen for any unusual grinding or whining noises from the starter area.
- Check under the truck to ensure you did not leave any tools or loose hardware.
- After a short drive, recheck the skid plate bolts to make sure they are still tight.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $550–$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180–$350 (parts only)
You Save: $370–$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours.
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