🔧 Murano - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor spins your engine to begin starting. When it fails, you may get a single click, slow cranking, or no crank at all even with a good battery. On your Murano, the starter is bolted to the transmission bellhousing and is accessed from the top and/or from underneath depending on hand clearance.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal first to prevent a short (the starter cable is always “hot”).
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine/exhaust to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Keep tools away from the positive starter cable and body metal at the same time.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (10–100 ft-lb range)
• 3/8" extension set (3" and 6")
• 3/8" wobble extension (specialty)
• Universal joint adapter (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light
• Fender cover

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor assembly - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads or spray - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (–) terminal first, then isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• If you need underside access, place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels, raise the front with a floor jack, then support with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Create access to the starter area (top side)

• Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the intake hose clamp(s) at the throttle body and air duct.
• Unclip/remove the air intake duct/air box section as needed using a trim clip removal tool and needle-nose pliers (some clips are squeeze-type).
• Set parts aside in order. Take a photo before removing hoses.

Step 2: Locate the starter and identify the connections

• Use a work light to find the starter where it mounts to the transmission bellhousing.
• You’ll see: (1) a thick battery cable on a stud with a nut, and (2) a smaller control connector (the “signal” wire plug).
• A wobble extension is an extension that bends slightly to reach bolts at an angle.

Step 3: Remove the starter electrical connections

• Pull off the rubber boot covering the main starter power nut (if equipped) by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut from the main power stud, then lift the cable off and move it aside so it cannot touch metal.
• Disconnect the small starter control connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight off (use needle-nose pliers gently if needed).

Step 4: Remove any lower splash shield (if needed for access)

• If access is tight from above, go underneath and remove the lower engine splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and a 10mm socket.
• Keep clips/bolts grouped so they go back to the same locations.

Step 5: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" extension (and a universal joint adapter if needed) to remove the starter mounting bolts.
• Support the starter with your free hand as the last bolt comes out so it doesn’t drop.
• Note bolt length/position if they are different.

Step 6: Remove the starter

• Wiggle the starter free from the bellhousing and remove it from the top or bottom—whichever gives the most room.
• Compare the old and new starters (mounting ears, connector type, and power stud location) before installing.

Step 7: Install the new starter

• Position the new starter into place by hand, then start the mounting bolts by hand (no tools yet) to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket to snug the bolts, then use a 3/8" torque wrench to finish: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lb).
• If bolts don’t thread easily, stop and realign.

Step 8: Reconnect starter wiring

• Reconnect the small control connector until it clicks (push straight on by hand).
• Install the main power cable onto the stud, then use a 12mm socket and 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb).
• Apply a light film of dielectric grease to the connector seals (not the metal contact surfaces), then reinstall the rubber boot.

Step 9: Reinstall intake and shields

• Reinstall the splash shield (if removed) using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall the intake duct/air box and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Double-check that every hose and clamp you loosened is back on and tight.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative (–) battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Install battery terminal anti-corrosion pads or spray as needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly and starts normally.
• Listen for abnormal grinding/whirring; if present, shut off and re-check starter seating and bolt tightness.
• Verify the intake duct is sealed (no hissing/whistling) and the check engine light stays off.
• Recheck the battery terminal is tight after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.