How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (3.5L V6)
Step-by-step intake manifold removal guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (3.5L V6)
Step-by-step intake manifold removal guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs
🔧 GS350 - Starter Motor Replacement
On your GS350, the starter motor is mounted in the “V” of the V6, underneath the upper intake manifold. Replacing it means removing the intake plumbing and upper manifold to access the starter, then reinstalling everything with new gaskets to prevent vacuum leaks.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative terminal before touching the starter wiring (prevents short circuits and accidental cranking).
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; the intake area gets very hot.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt and hardware out of the intake ports—stuff clean rags in the ports as soon as the manifold is off.
- ⚠️ Fuel vapor caution: you’ll open parts of the intake area; avoid sparks/open flame.
- ⚠️ Do not pry on plastic connectors—use a pick to lift lock tabs first.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fender cover
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- 12mm wrench
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set
- 3/8" drive universal joint
- Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool set
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Shop flashlight
- Painter’s tape and marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner or throttle-body safe cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
- Use painter’s tape and marker to label vacuum hoses and electrical connectors as you unplug them. Labels prevent reassembly mistakes.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative (-) terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- Have clean rags ready—once the intake manifold is removed, you’ll cover the intake ports immediately.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover and intake ducting
- Remove the plastic engine cover using your hands (it pulls up from rubber grommets).
- Use a 10mm socket and flat trim tool to loosen/remove the air intake duct/clips as needed to create working space.
- Unplug any intake duct sensors using a pick tool set to gently lift the lock tab first (the lock tab is the small plastic latch that must release before the plug comes off).
Step 2: Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold
- Unplug the throttle body connector using a pick tool set.
- Release related hose clamps (if equipped) using hose clamp pliers and move hoses aside.
- Remove the throttle body bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the throttle body and the old gasket. Clean the mating surfaces using brake cleaner or throttle-body safe cleaner on a rag.
- During reassembly: install a new gasket and Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 3: Disconnect connectors, vacuum lines, and brackets on the upper intake manifold
- Work left-to-right across the manifold and unplug connectors using a pick tool set.
- Remove small brackets/loom holders using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
- Release vacuum/PCV hoses using needle-nose pliers or hose clamp pliers.
- Take a quick photo before unplugging each area.
Step 4: Remove the upper intake manifold
- Remove the upper intake manifold bolts/nuts using a 12mm socket, 3/8" drive extensions, and a 3/8" drive universal joint as needed.
- Lift the manifold straight up and out. If it feels stuck, gently rock it—do not pry hard on sealing surfaces.
- Immediately stuff clean rags into the exposed intake ports (this prevents bolts from falling in).
- During reassembly: install new intake manifold gaskets and Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Access the starter and disconnect the wiring
- Locate the starter in the engine valley.
- Unplug the starter solenoid connector (small plug) using a pick tool set.
- Remove the main starter power cable nut using a 12mm socket (keep the nut safe).
- Confirm the battery is disconnected before this step.
- During reassembly: apply a light smear of dielectric grease inside the small connector.
Step 6: Remove the starter motor
- Remove the starter mounting bolts using a 14mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and extensions.
- Lift the starter out carefully (space is tight). Use a magnetic pickup tool if you drop a bolt.
- During reassembly: install the starter and Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect starter wiring
- Install the main power cable and nut using a 12mm socket. Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
- Plug in the solenoid connector until it clicks.
- Route the harness exactly as it was and reinstall any wire clips/brackets using a 10mm socket.
Step 8: Reinstall the upper intake manifold and throttle body
- Remove rags from the intake ports (count them to ensure none are left behind).
- Install new intake manifold gaskets and set the manifold in place.
- Tighten manifold fasteners evenly using a 12mm socket, then Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the throttle body with a new gasket using a 10mm socket, then Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect all vacuum hoses and electrical connectors.
Step 9: Reinstall intake ducting and reconnect the battery
- Reinstall intake ducting/clamps using a 10mm socket and ensure clamps are snug.
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm wrench (snug, do not over-tighten).
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it down into the grommets.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. The idle may be slightly uneven at first while the throttle adapts.
- Listen for vacuum leaks (a loud hissing sound). If you hear one, recheck manifold/throttle body seating and any hoses.
- Confirm no warning lights are on. If a check engine light appears, recheck every intake connector you unplugged.
- Do a short test drive, then recheck for any fuel/oil smells and verify smooth starts.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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