How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools/parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools/parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Starter Motor Replacement
The starter motor cranks your A4—sorry, your Grand Cherokee—by turning the engine over when you turn the key/push Start. If it’s failing (single click, slow crank, or no crank with good battery), replacing the starter is a direct bolt-on job from underneath.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: Typical 5.7L WK2 starter layout; fastener sizes/torques can vary by production date.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable first to prevent a short at the starter power cable.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool before working underneath; the starter sits near hot components.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the vehicle while working to avoid accidental cranking.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Socket set 8mm-18mm
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
- Extension set (3" and 6")
- Universal joint adapter (3/8" drive)
- Wrench set 10mm-15mm
- Trim clip tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2 (recommended if corroded)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- 🔋 Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- 🔦 Raise the front and support it: use a floor jack and set it securely on jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip tool and flat-blade screwdriver to remove push-pins/clips.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket (varies by shield fasteners) with a ratchet to remove any small bolts.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small tray.
Step 2: Locate the starter
- Use a work light to look up at the engine/transmission connection (bellhousing area).
- The starter is a small motor with a smaller “bump” on it (the solenoid), and it has a thick battery cable attached.
- Tip: Follow the thick cable from the battery area.
Step 3: Disconnect the starter wiring
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pop off any protective rubber boot on the large power terminal.
- Use a 13mm socket or 13mm wrench (common size) to remove the nut on the large battery cable stud, then remove the cable.
- Disconnect the small solenoid control wire connector by hand; if it’s tight, gently help with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease to the small connector on reassembly.
Step 4: Remove the starter mounting bolts
- Support the starter body with one hand.
- Use a 15mm socket with a ratchet, plus a 6" extension and universal joint adapter if needed, to remove the starter mounting bolts.
- Lower the starter out carefully; it’s heavier than it looks.
Step 5: Install the new starter
- Compare the new starter to the old one (same mounting ears, same electrical studs).
- Position the new starter and hand-thread both mounting bolts to avoid cross-threading (damaging threads).
- Tighten the mounting bolts with a 15mm socket and ratchet, then finish with a torque wrench: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Reconnect the starter wiring
- Reconnect the small solenoid connector by hand until it clicks/seats fully.
- Install the large battery cable onto the stud and tighten the nut using a 13mm socket and ratchet: Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Reinstall the protective boot over the power terminal.
Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield
- Reposition the shield and start all fasteners by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a ratchet to snug the bolts.
- Reinstall push-pins with the trim clip tool.
Step 8: Reconnect the battery and lower the vehicle
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench: Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- 🔍 Turn the key/push Start and confirm the engine cranks strongly and starts normally.
- 🔊 Listen for grinding/whining; if present, shut it off and recheck starter seating and bolt tightness.
- 🧯 Check that the large power cable is tight and not touching exhaust or sharp edges.
- 💡 If you had battery disconnected for a while, reset clock/radio presets as needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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