🔧 Edge - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor is what spins your engine fast enough to start. On your Edge, it’s mounted to the transmission/engine bellhousing area and is usually accessed from underneath after removing the lower splash shield.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery before touching starter wiring (prevents short circuits).
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; the exhaust/turbo area can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep tools away from the positive starter terminal; it’s direct battery power.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set: 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm
• 3/8" drive extensions (3" and 6")
• 3/8" drive swivel/universal joint
• Flat trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Small wire brush
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor - Qty: 1
• Starter motor mounting bolts - Qty: 2-3 (replace if corroded)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the ignition off, and remove the key/fob from the vehicle.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and disconnect the battery negative terminal first. (Negative is the “-” terminal.)
• Tip: Take a photo of the starter wiring before removing it.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: Stock 2.0L EcoBoost layout; starter access is primarily from underneath with splash shield removal.

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
• Lift the negative cable off and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 2: Raise and support the front of the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved front jack point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Shake the vehicle gently to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (undertray)

• Use a 7mm socket and 8mm socket (varies by fastener) to remove the small screws.
• Use a flat trim clip tool to pop out any plastic push-clips.
• Set hardware aside in a small container so you don’t lose it.

Step 4: Locate the starter motor

• Use a work light and look where the engine meets the transmission (bellhousing area).
• The starter is a cylindrical motor with a smaller “solenoid” attached and a thick power cable going to it.

Step 5: Remove the starter electrical connections

• If there’s a protective cap over the main power stud, remove it with a flathead screwdriver.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut on the large battery cable (B+ cable).
• Pull the large cable off and move it aside so it can’t touch metal.
• Remove the small control wire connector using needle-nose pliers if needed. (This is usually a push-on connector.)
• Tip: A push-on connector pulls straight off—don’t twist hard.

Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Support the starter with one hand.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive extension and swivel/universal joint to remove the starter mounting bolts.
• Remove the starter from the bellhousing and lower it out carefully.

Step 7: Compare the old and new starter

• Confirm the new starter matches the old one: mounting ears, electrical stud position, and overall length.
• Clean the mating surface on the transmission/engine area using a small wire brush so the starter sits flat.

Step 8: Install the new starter

• Position the starter and start the mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten mounting bolts using a 15mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for the starter mounting bolts.

Step 9: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Reconnect the small control wire until it clicks/seats fully.
• Install the large battery cable onto the main stud and tighten using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs) for the main power cable nut.
• Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seals. (Dielectric grease helps prevent corrosion.)
• Reinstall the protective cap over the main power stud.

Step 10: Reinstall the lower splash shield

• Reposition the undertray.
• Reinstall screws using a 7mm socket / 8mm socket and push-clips using a flat trim clip tool.

Step 11: Lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery

• Raise slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs) for the battery terminal clamp.
• Apply battery terminal anti-corrosion spray if desired.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen: the starter should crank strong and smooth (no grinding).
• Check for warning lights and confirm the vehicle starts repeatedly (2-3 times).
• Look underneath for any loose wiring near the starter and ensure the splash shield is secure.
• Tip: If it clicks only, recheck battery cable tightness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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