🔧 Traverse - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor is what cranks your engine when you turn the key. If it’s failing, you may get a single click, slow cranking, or no crank at all even with a good battery. On your Traverse, the starter sits at the transmission bellhousing and is typically accessed from underneath.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent an electrical short.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Support the Traverse with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the key/fob away from the vehicle so it can’t be started accidentally.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set
• 3/8" drive swivel socket adapter
• Torque wrench (10–100 Nm range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip remover
• Work light
• Battery terminal puller (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and plan to disconnect the battery before you go underneath.
• Gather a work light; the starter wiring must be reinstalled correctly and tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: starter is accessible from below without exhaust removal.

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative (-) battery terminal clamp.
• Remove the negative cable and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
• If the clamp is stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty) (it pulls the clamp off without prying).

Step 2: Raise and support the Traverse

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
• Set it down securely onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Shake-test the vehicle gently to confirm it’s stable before crawling under.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip remover for plastic push-clips.
• Use a 10mm socket for any small bolts/screws.
• Set all fasteners aside in a tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 4: Locate the starter and clear access

• From underneath, find the starter where the engine meets the transmission (bellhousing area).
• If there is a small heat shield, remove it using a 10mm socket.
• Tip: Take a photo of the wiring first.

Step 5: Disconnect the starter electrical connections

• Unplug the small starter solenoid control connector by hand; if tight, use a flathead screwdriver gently on the locking tab.
• Remove the nut for the main battery cable at the starter using a 13mm socket.
• Move the cable aside so it can’t touch metal.
• Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs) when reinstalling the main cable nut.
• Apply a thin film of dielectric grease to the connector seal (not on the metal contact).

Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Support the starter with one hand.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet, 3/8" drive extensions, and a 3/8" drive swivel socket adapter as needed to remove the mounting bolts.
• Lower the starter out carefully; it’s heavier than it looks.
• Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the starter mounting bolts.

Step 7: Install the new starter

• Position the new starter into place by hand, lining up the bolt holes.
• Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a 15mm socket, then finish with a torque wrench (10–100 Nm range): Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect wiring and reinstall shields

• Install the main battery cable onto the starter stud and tighten with a 13mm socket; finish with torque: Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs).
• Plug in the small solenoid connector until it clicks.
• Reinstall any heat shield using a 10mm socket.

Step 9: Reinstall splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip remover (for clips) and 10mm socket (for bolts).
• Raise slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower fully.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery and verify the repair

• Reconnect the negative (-) battery terminal and tighten using a 10mm socket.
• Install battery terminal anti-corrosion pads if you’re using them.
• Start the engine and listen for a strong, normal crank with no clicking or grinding.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine 3-4 times to confirm consistent cranking.
• Check that no warning lights appear after the first drive.
• Recheck under the vehicle for any loose wiring near the starter and exhaust heat sources.
• Tip: Re-torque the battery clamp next day.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $390-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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