🔧 ILX - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor is the electric motor that cranks your engine when you turn the key/push Start. Replacing it on your ILX involves disconnecting the battery, removing a few intake/engine-bay parts for access, unplugging the starter wiring, then unbolting and swapping the starter.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent an electrical short.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool before working near the radiator/exhaust area.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you go underneath—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep tools away from the starter’s main power stud; it is direct battery power.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Metric socket set 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extensions (3", 6", 10")
• 3/8" drive universal joint adapter
• Metric combination wrench set 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
• Torque wrench (10–80 N·m range) (specialty)
• Flat trim tool
• Phillips screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor assembly - Qty: 1
• Starter electrical terminal nut (if damaged) - Qty: 1
• Intake duct clamp (if damaged) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and keep your keys away from the car while working.
• A torque wrench ensures bolts aren’t too loose/tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: Access is primarily from the top; some fasteners may be easier from underneath depending on your tools.

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the negative (-) battery terminal clamp.
• Lift the cable off and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back.
• This prevents accidental sparks.

Step 2: Remove the intake duct/air inlet for room

• Use a Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket (depends on clamp style) to loosen the intake duct clamps.
• Unclip any attached small hose(s) using needle-nose pliers (squeeze the spring clamp, then slide it back).
• Remove the duct and set it aside.

Step 3: Locate the starter

• Use a flashlight to find the starter where the engine meets the transmission (bellhousing area).
• You’ll see a small cylinder-shaped motor with a thick power cable and a smaller control wire.

Step 4: Remove the starter wiring

• Remove the small control wire connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling it off by hand (use a flat trim tool gently if stuck).
• Remove the rubber boot covering the main power stud.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the nut holding the thick battery cable to the starter.
• Move the cable aside so it can’t touch metal parts.

Step 5: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Use a 14mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and extensions to remove the starter mounting bolts (typically 2 bolts).
• If a bolt is at an angle, use the 3/8" drive universal joint adapter to reach it.
• Support the starter with your free hand as the last bolt comes out.

Step 6: Remove the starter

• Wiggle the starter out of the bellhousing area by hand.
• If it feels stuck, rotate it slightly and pull—do not pry hard on aluminum surfaces.

Step 7: Install the new starter

• Place the new starter into position by hand, aligning it flush to the mounting surface.
• Start both mounting bolts by hand first (this prevents cross-threading, which means damaging the threads by starting crooked).
• Use a 14mm socket to snug the bolts, then use a torque wrench (10–80 N·m range) (specialty) to finish: Torque to 44 N·m (32 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Install the thick battery cable onto the starter power stud.
• Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 9 N·m (80 in-lbs).
• Reinstall the rubber boot over the power stud.
• Reconnect the small control wire connector until it clicks.

Step 9: Reinstall the intake duct/air inlet

• Reinstall the duct and any hoses you removed.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket to tighten the clamps snugly (do not overtighten and crack plastic).

Step 10: Reconnect the battery

• Install the negative (-) terminal back onto the battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the clamp securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly with no clicking.
• Check that no warning lights appear and that the engine idle sounds normal.
• Recheck the starter area for any loose wires and ensure the rubber boot is covering the power stud.
• If you hear grinding during cranking, stop and recheck starter seating/bolts.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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