How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2015-2017 Kia Rio 1.6L (DIY Guide) (Trim: LX)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for installation
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2015-2017 Kia Rio 1.6L (DIY Guide) (Trim: LX)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for installation for 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Rio - Starter Motor Replacement
The starter motor cranks your engine when you turn the key. If it’s failed (clicking, no-crank, or intermittent crank), replacement restores reliable starting.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
Assumption: Stock 1.6L/manual starter layout and hardware.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Disconnect the battery negative cable first to prevent short circuits at the starter power cable.
- 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
- 🛑 Keep metal tools away from the starter’s main power stud; it’s direct battery power.
- 🛑 Work on a cool engine/exhaust to avoid burns.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
- Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
- Ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm) (specialty)
- 6" socket extension
- 12" socket extension
- Universal joint socket adapter
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Small wire brush
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter electrical terminal nut kit - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧰 Park on level ground, put the transmission in neutral, and set the parking brake.
- 🧰 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- 🧰 Open the hood and locate the battery.
- 🧰 If you’re new to it: a torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact setting so you don’t strip or break them.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative (-) battery terminal clamp and remove it from the battery post.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 2: Raise and support the front of the car
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the proper front jacking point.
- Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Confirm stability with a gentle push before you go underneath.
Step 3: Remove any lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a 10mm socket and Phillips screwdriver to remove the fasteners.
- Use a flat trim tool to pop plastic clips without breaking them.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
Step 4: Create access from the top (air duct/air box area)
- Use a flat trim tool and Phillips screwdriver to loosen/remove the intake snorkel/duct as needed.
- Use an 8mm socket to loosen hose clamps if your intake tube uses worm clamps.
- Take a photo before removing anything.
Step 5: Locate the starter and label the wires
- The starter is mounted to the transmission bellhousing where the engine and transmission meet.
- Use a work light and identify: the thick battery cable on the large stud, and the small signal wire on the solenoid.
- Use needle-nose pliers to release any wire clips/retainers so the harness isn’t pulled tight.
Step 6: Disconnect the starter electrical connections
- Use a 10mm socket (typical) to remove the nut for the small solenoid terminal, then pull the connector off.
- Use a 12mm socket (typical) to remove the nut for the main battery cable on the large stud.
- Use a work light and keep hardware organized.
- When reinstalling later: small terminal nut Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)
- When reinstalling later: main terminal nut Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs)
Step 7: Remove the starter mounting bolts
- Support the starter with one hand.
- Use a ratchet, 14mm socket, and a 6" socket extension (and universal joint socket adapter if needed) to remove the starter mounting bolts.
- Pull the starter straight out from the bellhousing.
- When reinstalling later: starter mounting bolts Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs)
Step 8: Compare the old and new starter
- Check mounting holes, nose length, electrical stud positions, and connector style match.
- Use a small wire brush to clean the cable ring terminals if they’re dirty.
Step 9: Install the new starter
- Position the starter into the bellhousing and start the mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a ratchet to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm) (specialty): Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs)
Step 10: Reconnect the electrical connections
- Apply a thin film of dielectric grease to the small connector seal area (not on the stud threads).
- Install the main battery cable onto the large stud and tighten using a 12mm socket: Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs)
- Install the small signal wire and tighten using a 10mm socket: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)
- Re-attach any harness clips using needle-nose pliers so wiring can’t rub or hang.
Step 11: Reinstall intake/splash shield and lower the car
- Reinstall the intake ducting using an 8mm socket and Phillips screwdriver (snug clamps; do not overtighten).
- Reinstall the lower splash shield using a 10mm socket and Phillips screwdriver: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum), and lower the car.
Step 12: Reconnect the battery and test
- Install the negative (-) battery terminal and tighten using a 10mm socket: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
- Start the engine and listen for a strong, consistent crank.
- If you hear grinding: shut off immediately and re-check starter seating and bolt torque.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Start the engine 5-10 times over a day to confirm consistent operation.
- 🧪 Check that no cables are loose and nothing is touching the exhaust or moving parts.
- 🧪 If the battery was weak, consider charging/testing it—low voltage can mimic starter problems.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Starter Motor replace for these Kia vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Kia Rio | EX | - | - |
| 2017 Kia Rio | LX | - | - |
| 2017 Kia Rio | SX | - | - |
| 2016 Kia Rio | EX | - | - |
| 2016 Kia Rio | LX | - | - |
| 2016 Kia Rio | SX | - | - |
| 2015 Kia Rio | EX | - | - |
| 2015 Kia Rio | LX | - | - |
| 2015 Kia Rio | SX | - | - |


















