🔧 Highlander - Starter Motor Replacement

On your Highlander, the starter sits in the “V” of the V6 under the upper intake manifold. Replacing it means removing the intake parts on top first, then swapping the starter and reassembling with new gaskets so you don’t create vacuum leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent an electrical short (the starter power cable is always “hot”).
• Work on a cold engine; the intake area sits near hot components.
• Keep bolts and connectors organized; many look similar.
• Do not pry on plastic intake parts; they can crack.
• If you smell fuel while working, stop and ventilate the area before continuing.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/4")
• Socket set (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
• Deep socket (12mm, 14mm)
• Extension set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter (3/8")
• Torque wrench (3/8")
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pliers (hose clamp)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pick tool
• Magnetic pickup tool
• Shop light
• Painter’s tape and marker

A torque wrench measures tightening force accurately.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor - Qty: 1
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner or throttle-body safe cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Use painter’s tape to label hoses/connectors as you unplug them.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover and intake duct

• Pull up to remove the engine cover (no tools on most covers).
• Loosen the intake hose clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver or 10mm socket (whichever your clamps use).
• Unplug the MAF sensor connector, then remove the intake duct/air tube.

Step 2: Remove the throttle body from the intake

• Unplug the throttle body electrical connector by hand (press the lock tab first).
• Remove the throttle body mounting bolts with a 10mm socket.
• Lift the throttle body off and set it aside gently (do not hang it by the wiring).
• Remove and discard the old gasket with a pick tool.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 3: Disconnect hoses and connectors on the upper intake manifold

• Remove vacuum/PCV/EVAP hoses using pliers (hose clamp) where clamps are used.
• Unplug any electrical connectors attached to the upper intake area by hand.
• Use painter’s tape and marker to label anything that could be mixed up.

Step 4: Remove the upper intake manifold (plenum)

• Remove the upper intake manifold bolts/nuts with a 12mm socket, using extensions as needed.
• Lift the manifold straight up and out. If it sticks, tap lightly by hand—do not pry hard with a screwdriver.
• Cover the exposed intake ports immediately with a clean rag to prevent dropping anything into the engine.
• Remove and discard the old upper intake gaskets with a pick tool.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Access the starter and disconnect wiring

• Locate the starter in the engine valley.
• Unplug the small starter solenoid connector by hand.
• Remove the nut for the main power cable using a 12mm socket (some versions use 14mm socket), then lift the cable off.
• Use dielectric grease on reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the starter motor

• Remove the starter mounting bolts using a 14mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet, extensions, and a universal joint adapter as needed.
• Lift the starter out carefully (a magnetic pickup tool helps if a bolt tries to fall).

Step 7: Install the new starter motor

• Set the new starter into place by hand and start both mounting bolts by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten the starter mounting bolts with a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect the main power cable and tighten the nut with a 12mm socket (or 14mm socket if equipped).
• Reconnect the small solenoid connector until it clicks.

Step 8: Reinstall the upper intake manifold with new gaskets

• Install new upper intake gaskets into their grooves/locations (press in by hand).
• Remove the rags covering the intake ports.
• Lower the upper intake manifold into place carefully.
• Install bolts/nuts finger-tight first, then tighten evenly using a 12mm socket.
• Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the throttle body with a new gasket

• Install the new throttle body gasket.
• Install throttle body bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Reconnect the throttle body electrical connector.

Step 10: Reinstall intake duct and final connections

• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver or 10mm socket.
• Reconnect the MAF sensor connector.
• Reconnect all labeled hoses/connectors (use your labels).
• Reinstall the engine cover.

Step 11: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the key to ON for a few seconds (do not crank) and listen for anything unusual.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes; the idle may fluctuate briefly after the throttle body is unplugged.
• Check for intake vacuum leaks: listen for hissing around the intake, and verify there’s no check engine light.
• Road test, then recheck that all clamps/hoses are secure.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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