How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a successful starter replacement for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a successful starter replacement for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Starter Motor Replacement
The starter motor is the electric motor that cranks your engine when you turn the key/push the button. On your Altima, replacing it involves disconnecting the battery, removing access covers, unbolting the starter from the transmission bellhousing, and swapping it with a new unit.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative terminal before touching the starter wiring (the main cable is always “hot”).
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully if the car was recently driven.
- ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the car so it can’t crank unexpectedly.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- 6" socket extension
- 12" socket extension
- Universal joint socket adapter
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter electrical terminal nut kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, turn the ignition OFF, and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- 🔋 Open the hood and plan to disconnect the battery negative terminal first.
- 🧰 Lay out your extensions and universal joint adapter; access is tight.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen and remove the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back onto the post.
- This prevents accidental short circuits.
Step 2: Raise the front of the car and remove the lower cover
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point and set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket (fasteners vary by cover) to remove the engine under cover/splash shield.
- Use a flashlight to locate the starter at the transmission bellhousing area.
Step 3: Remove the intake ducting (for working room)
- From the engine bay, use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the air duct clamps.
- Remove the intake duct/resonator pieces as needed to improve access from above.
- More space now saves time later.
Step 4: Disconnect the starter wiring
- At the starter, pull off the small signal-wire connector by hand (wiggle gently; don’t yank the wires).
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut on the main battery cable terminal (B+ terminal) and remove the cable.
- Position the cable aside so it cannot touch metal.
- When reinstalling the B+ terminal nut: Torque to 10 N·m (89 in-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the starter mounting bolts
- Support the starter with one hand.
- Use a 14mm socket, 12" socket extension, and universal joint socket adapter to remove the two starter mounting bolts.
- Pull the starter straight out of the bellhousing.
Step 6: Install the new starter
- Compare the old and new starter (mounting ears, electrical studs, and connector location).
- Slide the starter into place, aligning it with the bellhousing.
- Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using a 14mm socket, then finalize with a 3/8" torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range): Torque to 49 N·m (36 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect the starter wiring
- Install the main battery cable onto the starter B+ stud.
- Use a 12mm socket to tighten the B+ terminal nut: Torque to 10 N·m (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the small signal-wire connector until it clicks/fully seats.
Step 8: Reinstall the intake ducting and lower cover
- Reinstall the intake ducting and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall the under cover using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
Step 9: Reconnect the battery and lower the car
- Reinstall the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket: Torque to 5 N·m (44 in-lbs).
- Remove the jack stands and lower the car using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly without clicking or grinding.
- ✅ Check that no warning lights appear and that the engine idles normally.
- ✅ Recheck the starter wiring area for any loose cables or rubbing/clearance issues.
- ✅ If the battery was weak, consider having it load-tested (a weak battery can mimic starter issues).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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