How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2020 Buick Encore (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 1.4L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for starter removal and installation
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2020 Buick Encore (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 1.4L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for starter removal and installation for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Encore - Starter Motor Replacement
The starter motor cranks your engine when you turn the key/start button. On your Encore, the starter sits tight against the engine/transmission area, so access is cramped and you’ll work from the top and underneath.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
Assumption: Stock intake/engine bay layout.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent a short.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool; you’ll work near hot parts.
- ⚠️ Keep keys away from the vehicle while the battery is connected.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- E10 external Torx socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" torque wrench
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- 12" extension (3/8" drive)
- Universal joint swivel adapter (3/8" drive)
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flashlight
- Fender cover
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Intake manifold gasket - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
- Plan your lighting; a flashlight makes this job much easier.
- A “universal joint swivel adapter” is a joint that lets your socket bend to reach bolts in tight angles.
- An “external Torx (E-socket)” is a star-shaped socket used on some GM bolts.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal and remove it from the battery.
- Tuck the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the post.
Step 2: Remove the top engine cover and intake ducting
- Lift off the engine cover by hand; if it’s tight, gently pry with a flat trim tool.
- Loosen intake clamps using a flat trim tool as needed and remove the intake ducting for more room.
- Unclip any harness retainers carefully with needle-nose pliers if they block access.
Step 3: Remove the throttle body electrical connector
- Press the lock tab and unplug the connector by hand; use a flat trim tool gently if the lock is stubborn.
- Don’t pull on wires—pull on the connector.
Step 4: Remove the intake manifold (to access the starter)
- Remove the intake manifold fasteners using an E10 external Torx socket with a 3/8" ratchet, plus a 6" extension as needed.
- Work slowly and keep bolts in order (lay them out on a towel in the pattern you removed them).
- Pull the manifold away and set it aside carefully without stressing hoses/wiring.
- Remove and discard the old intake manifold gasket.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) when reinstalling intake manifold bolts.
Step 5: Raise the front of the vehicle for lower access
- Place wheel chocks, then lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Set the vehicle securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 6: Locate the starter and remove the electrical connections
- From below (and/or through the top opening), locate the starter on the engine/transmission area.
- Remove the starter solenoid trigger wire connector by hand (use needle-nose pliers gently if needed).
- Remove the main battery cable nut using a 13mm socket, then lift the cable off the stud.
- Apply a thin film of dielectric grease to the connector seal during reassembly (not on the stud threads).
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs) for the main starter cable nut.
Step 7: Remove the starter mounting bolts
- Support the starter with one hand.
- Remove the starter mounting bolts using a 15mm socket with a 12" extension and a universal joint swivel adapter if needed.
- Work the starter out of the opening carefully (rotate as needed to clear nearby parts).
- Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) for the starter mounting bolts.
Step 8: Install the new starter
- Place the new starter into position by hand.
- Start the mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with a 15mm socket, then final-tighten with a 3/8" torque wrench to: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect starter wiring
- Install the main battery cable to the starter stud and tighten using a 13mm socket to: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the small trigger wire connector by hand until it clicks into place.
Step 10: Reinstall the intake manifold and throttle body connector
- Install a new intake manifold gasket in the manifold groove.
- Reinstall the intake manifold and hand-start all bolts.
- Tighten manifold bolts evenly using an E10 external Torx socket and finish with a 3/8" torque wrench to: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- If the throttle body was loosened/removed, replace the throttle body gasket before reassembly.
- Reconnect the throttle body connector by hand until it clicks.
Step 11: Reinstall intake ducting and engine cover
- Reinstall the intake ducting and tighten any clamps securely by hand.
- Press the engine cover back into place by hand.
Step 12: Reconnect the battery and lower the vehicle
- Lower the vehicle safely off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and tighten snugly.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Encore and verify it cranks strongly and starts normally.
- Listen for abnormal grinding/whining near the starter area.
- Check that no warning lights appear; if a check engine light comes on, re-check all intake/throttle connectors.
- Take a short test drive, then do a quick under-hood re-check for loose clamps or unplugged connectors.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $600-$1,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $420-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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