How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Trim: S)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Trim: S)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Starter Motor Replacement
Replacing the starter motor on your Escape involves disconnecting battery power, accessing the starter from underneath, removing the electrical connections, and unbolting the starter from the transmission bellhousing. The starter turns the engine over when you press the key/start command, so a failed starter can cause a no-crank condition.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter wiring. The starter main cable is always hot when the battery is connected.
- ⚠️ Support your Escape securely with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust and engine cool before working underneath.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses because dirt and rust can fall while working under the vehicle.
- ⚠️ Keep the removed battery cable away from the battery post so it cannot accidentally reconnect.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 3/8-inch drive universal joint adapter
- Torque wrench, 5-80 ft-lb range
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Shop light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if damaged or heavily corroded
- Battery terminal protectant - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and make sure the key is removed from the vehicle.
- A starter solenoid is the smaller electrical switch mounted on the starter that sends battery power to the starter motor.
- A bellhousing is the front part of the transmission where it bolts to the engine; the starter mounts there.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery cable clamp.
- Remove the negative cable from the battery post and move it aside so it cannot touch the post.
- Take a photo before disconnecting wiring.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point or approved front side jacking point.
- Place jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
- Gently lower your Escape onto the jack stands and lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
- Keep the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Shield if Equipped
- Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to remove any plastic push clips from the lower splash shield.
- Use an 8mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove shield fasteners if installed.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.
Step 4: Locate the Starter Motor
- Use a shop light and look at the lower front/side area where the engine meets the transmission bellhousing.
- The starter is a small cylindrical motor with a large battery cable and a smaller control wire attached to it.
- Identify the large B+ cable nut and the smaller solenoid/control wire connection before removing anything.
Step 5: Disconnect the Starter Electrical Connections
- Use a 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the nut from the large battery cable terminal.
- Pull the large battery cable straight off the starter stud and position it aside.
- Use a 10mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver, depending on connector style, to remove or release the smaller solenoid/control wire.
- Do not pull on the wire itself. Pull on the connector or terminal.
- Label wires if you feel unsure.
Step 6: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts
- Support the starter with one hand so it does not drop when the bolts come loose.
- Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive universal joint adapter to remove the starter mounting bolts.
- A universal joint adapter lets the socket work at an angle in tight spaces.
- Remove the starter from the bellhousing area and lower it carefully.
Step 7: Compare the Old and New Starter
- Place both starters side by side on the ground or workbench.
- Confirm the mounting ears, electrical terminals, gear nose, and overall shape match.
- If the starter has a protective shipping cap on the gear or terminals, remove it by hand before installation.
Step 8: Install the New Starter
- Lift the new starter into position by hand and align it with the bellhousing.
- Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 15mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to snug the starter bolts.
- Use a torque wrench, 5-80 ft-lb range with the 15mm socket to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect the Starter Wires
- Install the large battery cable onto the starter B+ stud.
- Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench, 5-80 ft-lb range to tighten the large starter cable nut to Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the smaller solenoid/control wire by pushing the connector on until it is fully seated, or use a 10mm socket if it uses a nut-style terminal.
- Make sure both wires are routed away from hot exhaust parts and moving components.
Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Shield
- Raise the lower shield into place by hand.
- Use an 8mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall any screw-style fasteners.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall plastic push clips.
- Tighten small shield fasteners snug only. Do not over-tighten plastic hardware.
Step 11: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum to lift your Escape slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
Step 12: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the clamp until secure.
- Apply battery terminal protectant to the terminal after tightening.
- Do not overtighten the clamp; it only needs to be secure and unable to rotate by hand.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Escape and listen for a clean, normal crank. It should not grind, click repeatedly, or stay engaged after the engine starts.
- If the engine does not crank, recheck the negative battery cable, starter B+ cable, and smaller solenoid/control wire.
- Verify the battery warning light turns off after the engine starts.
- Reset the clock and one-touch window function if needed after the battery disconnect.
- To relearn one-touch window operation, hold the window switch down fully, then up fully, and keep holding for a few seconds at each end.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $150-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $300-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.2-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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Guide for Starter Motor replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | S | - | - |















